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I believe this bike (which I inherited from my dad several years ago) has the original starter motor (model 31570-73). My dad told me about those bypass switches when my start button started getting flaky, but the ones I've seen online clearly aren't made for mine since mine is round. I asked my mechanic about it and he said I'm due for a new starter (this one's getting weak and I'm not sure rebuilding originals is common) and I'd be able to put one of those buttons on the new starter. But what I'm seeing as I research today is that this is a "hitachi" style and you don't really replace it with a different style. Am I right? I need to stick to a hitachi starter motor and no one makes those bypass buttons for the hitachis? Appreciate any confirmation or further info around this particularly since what I'm seeing doesn't match up with the impression I got from talking to my mechanic.
Also, if anyone has strong preferences of brand/model, I'm all ears.
The "Bypass button" you're referring to actually functions on the starter solenoid, not the actual starter motor itself. The ones you're seeing in the marketplace are for starters that are built with the solenoid connected to the starter as one unit. On your bike, like on my '85...the solenoid is a totally separate part. When I've had "weak starts" over the years, for whatever reason...sometimes it helped to effectively do the same thing those "bypass buttons" do, which is engage the posts on the solenoid by pulling the rubber cover out of the way and using a screwdriver or knife blade to jump across them. Not recommending that as a permanent solution, but it can help in the short term.
Yes, you need to stick with the same kind of starter, or change a WHOLE LOT OF OTHER STUFF. I put an All ***** starter on my 86 FLHT a few years ago. Well worth it.
All correct. The Hitachi "style" is the only one that fits. To rebuild one requires a BIG industrial soldering iron that would cost as much or more than a new motor. If you ever need to rebuild the solenoid - don't even think about it. Kit is nearly same dollars as new and it's not worth the trouble.
You can go with the AB model as Hess suggested, or an aftermarket. I used the lowest price aftermarket I could find since they are all made "you know where." It's worked just fine for 2 years now. Good part is, they are very easy to change, about a 30 minute job.
I'd get the original starter motor rebuilt. Search Google for a starter/alternator rebuilder near you.
Rebuild or replace the solenoid and put new wires on it.
Thanks guys. I hadn't realized the difference between the hitachi and others is that the others have the solenoid integrated, which makes sense since I didn't quite get how a push button would work in my case. Haha!
So one vote for rebuilding... I'd probably rather have a rebuild than a new one if the cost is comparable. I like the idea of staying original where possible. I'll have to look into local shops that could do it. Otherwise I'll have to weigh the new options (differing opinions above)... I don't mind paying more for quality and long term dependability. While USA or non-China are my general preference, quality can still vary even within China. So if they're all made in China I would probably then default to whatever brand has a really good rep if that's discernable.
But before I do that, I may just take a note from guido above and try shorting the solenoid because if it's actually the solenoid that's causing the weak starts, I don't want to prematurely jump the gun on the starter motor.
Nothing wrong with having your original Hitachi starter rebuilt.... On my 77 Shovel that uses the same starter I converted it to a Prestolite starter. Not that hard to do but the nice thing is they spin faster than a Hitachi.
At close to $300 for a high torque all *****, verses a few dollars to rebuild the stock one (bearings and just the bushings), my vote is to rebuild unless you have raised compression to the point that you need a high torque unit.
As for the stand alone solenoid, since it pretty much a sealed unit, parts to repair are close to cost of just a new one, that one I would go with new.
@guido4198 Finally got around to bypassing the solenoid... because of how tight a space there is around the solenoid I just tried using jumper cables to go from the battery positive directly to the starter motor's terminal. It spun fast and freely but isn't engaging with the engine, so as I learned, the solenoid is also responsible for engaging the motor with the engine. I'm gonna give up on that because I don't have ideal equipment for jumpering both parts and again, it's just so tight in there that I don't feel comfortable trying to get everything shorted together with a big screwdriver or something.
It seems less likely to me that the solenoid is weak than the motor itself so I think I'll just call the local auto electric services shop I found and have them rebuild my motor. Even if the solenoid is where the weakness is, it seems like after 36 years rebuilding the original starter motor might not be such a bad idea. Haha!
Appreciate the idea nevertheless... every time I have a reason to do some troubleshooting, it's an opportunity to learn more about the bike (or auto).
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