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You said the pawl adjustment didn't "work properly" and I assume you did it bu the book? If you turn the adjuster screw too far, the **** that engages the lever slot will be upside down and the adjustment may not allow enough travel to get equal free play of the exterior lever in 3rd gear.
And it is hard to rotate the drum with the outside lever. Check the forks for wear on the drum engagement pins and gear ends for wear. I don't see anything wrong in the video, but feeling IS different from seeing
Yes, i do it by the book in the 3rd gear.
And thanks for the input with the screw upwards, I will check again than.
My goal for today is trying to find the best position at the screw to make shifting as good as possible and complete the whole gearbox.
If it doesn't work I wait for the parcel from DK.
Just how tight was that rear belt???
Inquiring minds want to know...Please
The tight of the rear belt was according manual and proofed by the lower belt guard while bike rest on the side stand.
But thanks for this input, I will double check today.
Aloha,
little feedback.
After second removal the transmission and doesn't figure out what the issue should be I installed the Baker Shifter Drum Kit
after reinstall the tranny.
The shifting is smoother but sometimes the gears (dow to 3 up to 5) jump in easy sometimes with a little more pressure.
I use the RevTech Transmission oil 80W90.
Probably I change the oil again and use the spectro gear guard
Other recommendations are welcome
Aloha,
after thinking about the issues i came to the decision, somebody worked before at the transmission as the marking at the 5th gear shows.
And it seems the person who screwed the bike before me has no really clue from HD's.
I guessing now, the engine and the transmission housing aren't proper aligned together so that will be the reason for the needle bearing fault and now shifting issues after the tranny repair.
My next step will be, remove the primary again, loosen the screws from engine and transmission housing, assemble the primary to align the engine and the transmission housing.
There after tighten the screws from transmission and engine all according service manual.
I guess thereafter the shifting issue will be gone.
But due to a shoulder surgery this work has to wait for the next weeks.
to be continued....
Aloha,
the only thing I heard about GL-5 shouldn't be used in older primary cause it should damages the isolation from the alternator.
For the gearbox it shouldn't be an issue.
Aloha,
the only thing I heard about GL-5 shouldn't be used in older primary cause it should damages the isolation from the alternator.
For the gearbox it shouldn't be an issue.
If there are Bronze Bushings... I won't use GL-5... GL-3 Only... Harley, MOPAR, Jeep, Japanese (the very Few that use Bushings), Look into it.
Aloha, if you reed my first post you can see, the bearings and mainshaft are new.
The reason why is possible the aluminum front pulley which was lose cause aluminum is not the best material for front pulleys and hard tighten power.
I replaced the front pulley by a steel one from a -94 model and add a spacer.
So this side is fine.
Aloha,
From jpcycles BDL
There I expect more durability.
Cause it's not linked to the main shaft issue it's mounted directly at the 5th gear shaft and the huge bearing from the 5th gear shaft was ok.
If there are Bronze Bushings... I won't use GL-5... GL-3 Only... Harley, MOPAR, Jeep, Japanese (the very Few that use Bushings), Look into it.
As I remember the disassembly I can't remember to any bronze parts in the Evolution transmission.
Every part is made of steel and the bearing cages are made of steel or plastic.
So I'm not concerned about the mineral oil from Spectro or RevTech.
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