Yes, if your in there, put in a cam. You will be happy that you did and sorry that you didn't. The N cam is an EPA mandated dog. Get rid of it. You will get better mileage also. Let/make the bike run the way it's supposed to run...

 

I will say that, going from an N to an L will be noticeable to your Butt Dyno.. Many...Many Cams, are weak at the Bottom and Very Strong, at RPM's I do Not normally run at!!! Everyone rides Differntly..some differently depending on the Bike being Ridden...Be as Honest with yerself as possible, about How you are wanting to Use this Bike!!!

 

All good points. I have another fxr with a strong top end. Maybe this one would be better with more low end. I think I'll give the 3010 a try.

 

Of the 4, the EVL-3010 would be the best for all around..

 

Agree...absolutely.. but Not enough better than the "L", if ya already have one!!! LOL
There are Lots of them about, and they are close enough to the EV23 to suit.. very Inexpensive... Being a COB.... I shop...or Hoard!!
Lots of Folks Love that EV13 in a lighter Bike also!! But... all say it "Comes On" a bit later..
Only one I see that is a poor choice there is the "N"...They are Everywhere...basically Free... For a reason..

 

Anything you put in there will be a drastic improvement over the N cam.

Asking around for the past few years, seems the key to quiet valve train is solid push rods. Dan89 w/EV27, YD and Mike131 with V-Thunder all say theirs are quiet with solids.

I've run a lot of different cams and have not had a totally quiet valve train since I took out the solids years ago but can say, The L cam was very quiet with fully adjustable/quick install rods. And Racepres brags on the L for good reason. They will fool you because of the wide lobe separation. Fantastic vacuum at idle (CV carbs love that) and the torque is so consistent throughout the rpm range, you really don't realize how good it's pulling till you look down at the speedo.

But of course, the other "usual suspects" of cams will give you more at higher speeds/rpms.

 

I've got a 3010 on the way. I'm going to reuse my stock pushrods. Maybe I'll swap them for adjustable in the future, but at this point, I already have the fairing and tank off for some wiring updates..

 

You'll like it....

 

all of my parts showed up, today. I'll start on it in the morning. I have one more question. The new cam came with a gear. I've read many times that I'd be better off reusing the stock gear. How can I index the gear so the timing is still the same on the new cam? The dot on the face appears to be 180* from the keyway on the cam. Does the oem cam have the same keyway?

 

Correct, the timing dot for the pinion is precisely 180 degrees opposite the notch.

I've been intending for years to make a tutorial but been to lazy... here's a pic of a stock L cam without gear. You see the notch runs almost to the end meaning, you can sorta check the alignment of your marks before you start pressing.

The left gear is scribed precisely with the method I prefer but takes too long to write it up and do photo explanation. The gear mark on the right didn't show up in the photo, but basically use an ultra-fine sharpie or scribe and make a short mark at each corner of the notch on the original gear. Press both gears off and install the old gear on the new cam.

Remember - if you get it started or fully pressed on and see it's off more than say .005 or so, there is no shame in pressing it back off and adjusting so it's close as you can get it.