Voltage , Charging ?
Mine is intermittent on the road. Voltage might read fine, 13.5 on the road and will suddenly drop to 12 or so. Oil pressure fine and will suddenly drop to O. Have verified the problem thru method I described to you. Did you try it? Sometimes electrical problems don't need digital meters. As said, this will verify if it is a faulty guage problem .
Easy things first. Ken
Easy things first. Ken
Mine is intermittent on the road. Voltage might read fine, 13.5 on the road and will suddenly drop to 12 or so. Oil pressure fine and will suddenly drop to O. Have verified the problem thru method I described to you. Did you try it? Sometimes electrical problems don't need digital meters. As said, this will verify if it is a faulty guage problem .
Easy things first. Ken
Easy things first. Ken
No, that I didn't do, sometimes I'm not too bright. Thanks
Plenty bright. My mind tends to go in several directions at once when diagnosing, hard to follow one direction all the way to it's conclusion before it's end.
Always several possibilities. Especially problems with my MM system. Just happened on the reason for my guage problems . Wish I'd thought of it before all the multimeter testing. Following wiring on the Ultra is a bitch....for me. Damn gettin' old.
Ken
Always several possibilities. Especially problems with my MM system. Just happened on the reason for my guage problems . Wish I'd thought of it before all the multimeter testing. Following wiring on the Ultra is a bitch....for me. Damn gettin' old.
Ken
That and I own one to boot
WP
This may help y'all. The volt gauge is on the acc circuit, basically on in all switch positions. The acc circuit feeds gauges, brake light switches, radio main on power, turn signals and horn. Later models use a fuse rather than breaker. If the circuit is at fault, some or all of those items should fail at the same time.
If the volt gauge drops to zero, hit the horn button. If it blows, the gauge or wiring near it will be suspect. If it's all dead suspect fuse, or if intermittent, consider main switch or wiring connection... which can be difficult to track down.
If the volt gauge drops to zero, hit the horn button. If it blows, the gauge or wiring near it will be suspect. If it's all dead suspect fuse, or if intermittent, consider main switch or wiring connection... which can be difficult to track down.
Plenty bright. My mind tends to go in several directions at once when diagnosing, hard to follow one direction all the way to it's conclusion before it's end.
Always several possibilities. Especially problems with my MM system. Just happened on the reason for my guage problems . Wish I'd thought of it before all the multimeter testing. Following wiring on the Ultra is a bitch....for me. Damn gettin' old.
Ken
Always several possibilities. Especially problems with my MM system. Just happened on the reason for my guage problems . Wish I'd thought of it before all the multimeter testing. Following wiring on the Ultra is a bitch....for me. Damn gettin' old.
Ken
I scrapped the MM system so got rid of that tangle at least.
This may help y'all. The volt gauge is on the acc circuit, basically on in all switch positions. The acc circuit feeds gauges, brake light switches, radio main on power, turn signals and horn. Later models use a fuse rather than breaker. If the circuit is at fault, some or all of those items should fail at the same time.
If the volt gauge drops to zero, hit the horn button. If it blows, the gauge or wiring near it will be suspect. If it's all dead suspect fuse, or if intermittent, consider main switch or wiring connection... which can be difficult to track down.
If the volt gauge drops to zero, hit the horn button. If it blows, the gauge or wiring near it will be suspect. If it's all dead suspect fuse, or if intermittent, consider main switch or wiring connection... which can be difficult to track down.
What do you mean main switch?














