Branch heads used to be the top of the line.. Sounds like you have different cylinders on there probably got a stroker motor. Nothing wrong with a screaming eagle ignition module either, does it have dip switches on the under side of the module? Take a picture of the motor from the cam cover side with the derby cover off so I can see the cam position sensor (CPS). Lastly it Sounds like you're hitting the rev limiter.. You very possible have a very well built motor to perform in the higher rpm range and to mock the build because it doesn't perform well down low is senseless.. Do you know what you have? Cause it sounds like you have a really good build..

 

I’m guessing, but I think they literally broke off 2-3 rows of fins and put a gimmicky polished aluminum ring around it imitating or trying to “look” like they polished the jugs at the bottom. I doubt highly it’s a stroked motor. I could pull a plug and measure the swept volume for a clue, but doubt it. It does feel like im hitting a Rev limiter, but I’m not. It does it somewhere between 2,800 to 3,800 rpm. (No tach) If you just keep the throttle twisted it gets through it in 10-20 seconds and then really starts to come on in power around 3500-4000 and feels fine once your up in rpm’s. A stroker that yields 190 cc would have more power down low. Whatever cam they have in there is bleeding off the mechanical compression down low. I know Jerry Branch was a legend and did some amazing stuff but I’m pretty sure either the chopper shop took the PO money and halfway did things, or they cluelessly put parts together that don’t belong together to meet the power goals. No good engine builder designed this motor.

Another example of the “chopper Shop’s” work, these geniuses tried to put a wide tire kit on the bike. They installed 1/4” spacers between the primary and motor / trans shifting everything to the left. Then my guess is they still couldn’t get a new rim and tire in there, so they stuck a 140 on the stock 16 x3 rim and put it back in there. So now I’m riding this thing with the rear wheel 5/8” to the left of alignment from the front tire. Another issue to fix. Everywhere you look on this bike, if you look closely and long enough you find the hidden dumbness these guys did. They sold the PO on their reputation and just stuck bolt on and GLUED on chrome nonsense and RazorHog Screaming Eagle stuff everywhere. Yeah I know… I bought it. Ike I said, I always wanted a Springer, low original 6K miles and it was super cheap, but man Do I hate the amateur hour fingers that got near this bike. The very first dead give away when I first saw the bike was the Velocity stack and the Razor Hog bolt on crap. Did mention when I rebuilt the carb that they cross treaded the S&S bowl screws….

I’m in FL and Hurricane Ian just passed yesterday, to add to my work load I now have shingle damage and a tree down so the Bike has to wait. I’ll send some pics when I can. The bikes are blocked in the garage with everything from the Lanai/ patio that was brought in for the storm.

 

Early on I assumed vacuum leak too. I sprayed all and the intake and seals, exhaust pipe gaskets and had no leaks. I tried rejetting, it had a 28 in there and the S&S E needed turned out 2.5 full turns for fastest /middle idle. So when I swapped pipes I went 29.5, same problem, ran just as bad (checked timing, float and just rebuilt the carb completely thinking could be the nasty crap in there) with the cutting out still there, I went up to a 31… still there, early E so no air bleed circuit. (I have a jig and could add the air bleed, but since ultimately I’ll replace the engine and go bigger the E won’t be my solution anyway) So then I removed the main and started with a 70 and the 29.5, same, then I went 72 & 29.5, same, then I went 74 and 28, same then 74 & 29,5… did this all the way up to 31 & 78, cutt out the same. I kept checking the float and because I did have rust getting in there and the needle seat failing I rebuilt the carb again, string dropped magnets into the gas tank, removed the petcock and cleaned all that I could, flushed the left tank good, reinstalled the clean petcock added a inline fuel filter and started over.. nothing helped. Out of frustration/desperation I grabbed my good G and some black spacers and rigged up the G. (I have a box of intakes both shovel and evo) Same issue.. that was the last straw and I’ve kinda ruled out induction. I’m now on electrical. It feels like a rev limiter but that’s not it either.

 

Griz... the T-Jet is Not for "extra" fuel... used properly it is all about an Extra Circuit...for Transition.. properly tuned, the "net" fuel delivered should be same same...

 

I have a D with a Thunderjet (was too big for the 12:1 93” shovel) it complicates tuning a lot. But I just might have to add, at minimum, the air bleed and possibly a Tjet. I actually have two new in the package. I have the jigs too. I’m too bull headed to try Mikuni carbs. I messed with them before of course with other peoples bikes, but never at the track or for anything serious. If a fella can’t pronounce it he probably shouldn’t use it lol. I just didn’t want to go there for a temporary motor. Course with how life stacks up and gets away from you, who knows how long it will be before I actually go big motor.

 

An AFR meter really should be used to tune with a T-Jet and three circuits.. I have them on both my E and G....

 

Here’s my limited experiance with that sore subject. I used three different dyno tuners in my early time racing with the shovel. They were all the exact same result. By the time the Dyno showed max numbers and the best Fuel curve on paper, I lost 2-3 tenths in et, a couple mph and my 60 ft times went to crap.. after t0 miles the plugs would be so fouled out you had to toss them… Dyno’s lie. For me the best way to tune a carb is at the track. First go for the greatest mph, then chase ET, then concentrate on 60ft. For me it’s absolute fact the dyno only gets you close.

All three were 150 dyno’s and all three shoved the sniffer up the pipe. Another truth, the max the dyno ever showed was 105 hp. But tuned like that the bike was slow, too rich. After running some consistent 11:8’s I loaded it in my truck and early the next morning took it to the dyno guy, it showed peak 97hp with my track tuning. Retuned got the 105 back, went to the Tri-state and the best it did was 12:07. Retuned… 11:9 @112mph. Dyno and fuel curves lie.

 

Dude, you keep talking track.. We're not track here, we're Street and we don't tune for just WOT.... AND that what most tuners tune for WOT and Peak numbers not real world driving.. I use a Wego III and tune the entire rpm range for what I like which is "lean is mean" with 3 circuits and produce great numbers.. For ***** a giggles I had Scott put my bike on the Dyno and rejetting was not necessary.. The motor was performing perfectly..

Getting back to your stumble, I once had an issue at 3100 rpm where it would stumble momentarily and then clear up by 3200 rpm. Didn't matter what I did.. Plugs, wires, coil, different carb and intake, even ignition modules... I finally installed a new Cam Position Sensor and it immediately ran perfect.. I use a Standard Motor Product MC-SPA3. $45.. Even carry a spare now..

 

Yah man I hear ya. I just went to the certified Office max and bought real high quality high performance toner… none of that knock off overseas crap. Now my dyno numbers look better than anybody. Used some special weight HD paper too.. can’t be beat. I’ll check the official cam sensors in my pan, Shovel and 90 EVO. Next time I’m sitting at the bar with some suds and some jerk starts bloviating about his bike I’ll carry my high def paper graphs… I’m too good to print it from my phone to the bar printer. They probably dont use certified toner or good paper, can’t prove a thing that way. If someone wants to get real in a conversation.. I have some on special color paper too.

 

True. You do run a smaller main and let the T-jet carry more of the load over around 4-4200 revs. I've never been exactly positive if it wasn't adding more than what a larger main couldn't since you go smaller on the main.
I tried to keep it to keep it under 5k as much as possible anyway, but it was fun when you hammered on it.. LOL.

Griz