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i agree with the above posts in regards to ignition switches failing vibration wrecks the so called electronic switches .i went trough a couple and the went back to the old barbell style Also check you wiring to the coil i had a loose wire there which compounded my issues. FYI I had very similar symptoms to you.
i agree with the above posts in regards to ignition switches failing vibration wrecks the so called electronic switches .i went trough a couple and the went back to the old barbell style Also check you wiring to the coil i had a loose wire there which compounded my issues. FYI I had very similar symptoms to you.
Problem is... I do Not recall an old style (intended for Tank Dash) on a "T"..
This thread requires someone with FLT/FLHT ignition switch Experience.. sorry Mine is Gone!!!!
93 Had a ignition switch that could fail. I believe there was a silent "recall " back in the day. Switch is obsolete from moco.
Stuck with used or reproduction.
Last edited by V-Twins & Bowties; Oct 26, 2022 at 12:29 PM.
I ordered the switch housing, 71526-93B, i'm assuming thats the issue? I'll start ripping into it tonight and see what it looks like. I also got come electrical cleaner so if it is just a dirty switch hopefully i'll get away with that. But if not i'll have the parts coming sometime next week.
Problem is... I do Not recall an old style (intended for Tank Dash) on a "T"..
This thread requires someone with FLT/FLHT ignition switch Experience.. sorry Mine is Gone!!!!
My Bad, time to get my eyes checked again. The main point for me was i was probably chasing my tail a bit focusing on the ignition switch when it may have been the lug on the coil power wire all the time, some times you just never know with intermittent faults. hope you get it sorted without throwing to many parts at it.
Last edited by Ozzie John; Oct 26, 2022 at 04:13 PM.
Make sure you have a good battery, load tested, and that all those initial connections are good. Check easy things first.
Ride safe!!
Thats where I started with the battery, everything was tight and got good readings there. Checked anything I could with ripping into the fairing. But if I hold the start button down and slowly turn/wiggle the ignition switch it'll hit a sweet spot and the lights will come on and it will kick over. So i'm pretty sure it's the switch now. I started pulling everything apart and ordered the switch, hopefully it gets here soon.
Thats where I started with the battery, everything was tight and got good readings there. Checked anything I could with ripping into the fairing. But if I hold the start button down and slowly turn/wiggle the ignition switch it'll hit a sweet spot and the lights will come on and it will kick over. So i'm pretty sure it's the switch now. I started pulling everything apart and ordered the switch, hopefully it gets here soon.
You don't need any special tools to take the key part of the ignition switch off of my bike, just a small screw driver. I would think yours should be the same. I won't try and explain the process here but my Clymer manual explains the process and you can also find it via Google on the web. Once you see how its done, its an easy procedure.
As to the recall, my 98 still has an outstanding recall for the ignition. I bought the bike used but seeing as its been close to 25 years, I have no idea if it was ever fixed or not, but never had any problems so I'll deal with it when it happens.
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