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I have a 93 FLHTCU electra glide ultra classic, recently i've been having an issue that i'm trying to make sure i'm going in the right direction. It started about 2 months ago, I filled up with fuel started it up and it stalled out, 3 times before I was able to leave the gas station parking lot. I thought that was weird but once it stayed running it was fine. A week or so later and after leaving another gas station the bike kinda hiccupped while accelerating, backfired, and blew out a large puff of black smoke and then corrected it self and keep going. A couple weeks after that, I was leaving a location and it did the stalling thing again. But this time it was night time and I was able to see that the bike stalled, and the headlights went out, but I still had my radio and dash lights. So, I started thinking it was something electrical? Before I had time to research it further, I went out for another ride and I was unable to start it , again I had dash lights but no headlight and the starter would not engage. On my second attempt it started right up? Fast forward to this weekend and it did the same thing everytime I stopped and tried to restart it. I noticed that if I wiggle the ignition switch I can eventually find the sweet spot and i'll have lights and it will start right up.
So here's my questions, since it looks to me that the ignition switch is the problem? Is there anything within that assembly that can cause this and be fixed or replaced or will the whole thing need to come out and be replaced? If the whole thing has to be replaced could the problem be within the switch assembly itself or the housing or both? How much of a pain is it to replace and is there anything special I should know before ripping into it? Lastly am I missing something and could the issue be elsewhere?
A ignition trigger will also do that its in the noise cone - take it off you may have to drill the rivets out to do so use the correct bit - look at the trigger if your not sure picture it up — they melt and brown or a tan goo will be on the square trigger as you look at it
A ignition trigger will also do that its in the noise cone - take it off you may have to drill the rivets out to do so use the correct bit - look at the trigger if your not sure picture it up they melt and brown or a tan goo will be on the square trigger as you look at it
Thanks I'll check that tonight and see what it all looks like in there.
I have a 93 FLHTCU electra glide ultra classic, recently i've been having an issue that i'm trying to make sure i'm going in the right direction. It started about 2 months ago, I filled up with fuel started it up and it stalled out, 3 times before I was able to leave the gas station parking lot. I thought that was weird but once it stayed running it was fine. A week or so later and after leaving another gas station the bike kinda hiccupped while accelerating, backfired, and blew out a large puff of black smoke and then corrected it self and keep going. A couple weeks after that, I was leaving a location and it did the stalling thing again. But this time it was night time and I was able to see that the bike stalled, and the headlights went out, but I still had my radio and dash lights. So, I started thinking it was something electrical? Before I had time to research it further, I went out for another ride and I was unable to start it , again I had dash lights but no headlight and the starter would not engage. On my second attempt it started right up? Fast forward to this weekend and it did the same thing everytime I stopped and tried to restart it. I noticed that if I wiggle the ignition switch I can eventually find the sweet spot and i'll have lights and it will start right up.
So here's my questions, since it looks to me that the ignition switch is the problem? Is there anything within that assembly that can cause this and be fixed or replaced or will the whole thing need to come out and be replaced? If the whole thing has to be replaced could the problem be within the switch assembly itself or the housing or both? How much of a pain is it to replace and is there anything special I should know before ripping into it? Lastly am I missing something and could the issue be elsewhere?
Classic Iggy Switch Problem.. You will have No Ignition Power if you don't have lights...If Stock.
Ignition switch is Dirty...or possibly damaged/defective..
Problem tho.. that Ignition switch is a PITA to get to... on older ones anyway.. Hopefully someone who is better aquainted with that Model will come along...
Last edited by Racepres; Oct 25, 2022 at 03:10 PM.
Classic Iggy Switch Problem.. You will have No Ignition Power if you don't have lights...If Stock.
Ignition switch is Dirty...or possibly damaged/defective..
Problem tho.. that Ignition switch is a PITA to get to... on older ones anyway.. Hopefully someone who is better aquainted with that Model will come along...
Ok that is what it was looking like to me as well. Now if someone has a fix or a direction of what needs to be done and how to get to it easily (if that's possible) that would be appreciated.
There are a few other places to look before you take the whole fairing, etc.. apart to get to the ignition switch. Will it start in the Lights position on switch? Here's some recommendation:
1. replace the starter relay
2. turn handlbar to the right, spray electrical contract clean up and at the ignition switch wiring
3. Take fairing off, and clean up your breakers. Check for (+) when ignition switch is turned to positions: Ign, Lights, ACC
If that hasn't fixed it, you will have to start checking wire continuity.
Edit: I thought my ignition switch was bad, because I had some intermittent issues with power coming on when the switch was turned. Lots of cleaning and checks. Bottomline, it was the wire going from my ACC breaker to starter relay. Over time, the wire broke at the clamp that was mounted to the lower triple tree. It's how they mounted it at the factory. When I replaced this wire, my dreaded click was fixed along with intermittent issue. It was a PIA, but check your wiring before you replace what might be a good ignition switch. They are very hard to find too.
Last edited by daven9113; Oct 25, 2022 at 05:03 PM.
There are a few other places to look before you take the whole fairing, etc.. apart to get to the ignition switch. Will it start in the Lights position on switch? Here's some recommendation:
1. replace the starter relay
2. turn handlbar to the right, spray electrical contract clean up and at the ignition switch wiring
3. Take fairing off, and clean up your breakers. Check for (+) when ignition switch is turned to positions: Ign, Lights, ACC
If that hasn't fixed it, you will have to start checking wire continuity.
Edit: I thought my ignition switch was bad, because I had some intermittent issues with power coming on when the switch was turned. Lots of cleaning and checks. Bottomline, it was the wire going from my ACC breaker to starter relay. Over time, the wire broke at the clamp that was mounted to the lower triple tree. It's how they mounted it at the factory. When I replaced this wire, my dreaded click was fixed along with intermittent issue. It was a PIA, but check your wiring before you replace what might be a good ignition switch. They are very hard to find too.
Accompanied by the Lights being Off/On as well as ignition??
I stand by my assessment!! No Lights...also no Ignition.. Could it be a wire??? Absolutely..
Last edited by Racepres; Oct 25, 2022 at 05:40 PM.
So looks like I'll be searching through the wiring to see if I see anything that may be problematic as well as cleaning everything to start off. Hopefully that'll fix the issue, hate to tackle the ignition switch and have that not be the problem.
They sell a special tool to remove the ignition switch - cant do it with out it
I've seen tools for 03 and up models but nothing for the older models. The manual doesn't mention anything about needing a special tool? Just shows 2 bolts to be removed after everything else that has to come off just to get to it. Do you have a link to the tool you're talking about?
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