No, the SMP cps will not leak anything and it's tough to diagnose but as cheap as they are I carry a spare.. You never know.. for the MM EFI you do know to use the fixed mount holes, not the adjustable sliders, Right?

 

Yes....if you own one you best know it's workings or you won't be riding. No expert like a few on here but have learned a lot here and from fsm and have applied that as I'm able. No dealer/ indy in my area has a clue.

Waited a little too long for picking up some spare new parts from Ronnie's for the MM. Will have to get a dealer to do a search for me on those, 98.

 

Those years of bikes had a recall on the ignition switch. It was not so much the switch but related wiring. The factory fix was to install a relay, a different main fuse and some related wiring. I think you can still find some info on the web. On bikes with a batwing, If you take the outer cover off the fairing and as you stand in front of the bike, look on the left fairing support that goes over to the speaker. If it has been fixed it will have a normal looking relay with yellow on the base bolted to the fairing support. Or you could just run the serial number through at a Harley dealer and see if it was fixed. Just one thing to stroke off your list before you move onto something else.

Being that is a fuel injected bike, 25 yrs old, some of the sensors are a known issue. Do a search on the site and you'll find some really good info on the MM injection trouble shooting.

I would do both of the above before I started tearing stuff apart and throwing money at the bike.

 

Thanks, cycleman. Will look at that under the fairing. Definitely not one to start throwing parts at it. Retired, money not rolling in like it used to. Did want to replace all linkage on MM with new, however. ICS/ISC assemby, whichever it's called. The full kit with the throttle body/ butterfly shaft bearing included.

 

If you get really stuck, many have removed the MM system and gone back to a carb.

 

Been thinking seriously about that....pick up parts a little at a time.....mileage would increasse. Getting 28-32 mpg. Runs out at 150 miles 1-up. Ask me how I know.

 

Consider review CRANK sensor connector.
black pencil thick connector.
It is a push and turn connector.
Under side cover.
About 1 foot away from computer.
Loose connector causes a shut down or lots of cranking and no start.

 

Did you have to cycle the key switch off and on three times before it would crank?

 

No, im...after it died,, I cranked it several times to start. Would just turn over. 5 minutes later, started right up, but stuttered a second shifting up. Made my trip stop and started back up normal and ran fine all the way home. Maybe that counts for key cycling?

 

Will check crank position sensor connection again. Thanks, im.