A LOT of cranking and then a LOT more cranking and then a LOT more cranking and no start is very indicative most times of the CAM position sensor taking a dump.
Look under the timer cover just under the RIGHT floor board where the black wire exits.
The original factory CAM sensor had a beige/tan sealant and when it melted the sealant...the sealant would ooze out at that wire location.
Rather easy to see with zero tools....just look.
The replacement factory CAM sensor had the black sealant.
The sensor is not "timed" but instead used in the fixed position. The only two holes on plate.
Access is not a big deal..
Remove/drill the two rivets..if somebody changed it already then it will have two screws instead..
Then use a phillips bit on a wrench to remove the two screws.
The a flat head to remove the two posts.
Then cut a piece of allen to get the one stupid allen bolt that is located between frame and timer cover that is used to hold the wire.
or you will have to loosen the entire exhaust and add about an extra hour of labor.
That allen bolt just needs to get loose and not removed since it pinches the wire.
Remove the connector from wire and pull out.
There are no fluids to leak.
Replacement in reverse.
The factory sensor has three wires since the factory unit is part of the tip over sensor.
You will be working on your back so make sure you note the location of each wire for the connector.
Many folks just cut the wire connector off and hardwire to save the 20 minutes.
If you do that then consider using Posi-lock Connectors since they are fast and re-usable.
If using the connector... Make sure to note location of wires at connector since the connector then slides onto frame nipple (nail head looking thing)
No idea about after market sensor compatibility or wires on EFI..some have used aftermarket sensor on the carb bikes but cup is different on EFI

 

A tilt/fall over reset requires three KEY off/on.
So if you turned key OFF, then ON three times the bike resets.

For a quick and easy test to rule out a loose wire..
Turn bike on, leave it in neutral.
While bike is parked and running.
Get a rubber hammer and hit hard parts.
Hard parts examples:
Bottom of floor boards.
Axle ends
Engine guard.
Handle bar
The passenger floor board mounts.
You are looking for a stumble after each hit.
It really reads like a CAM sensor connector being loose or CAM sensor problem.
The CAM sensor connector is a push and turn and it can easily look OK but the turn lock thing is loose.
*It would really be nice if it was just a loose spark plug wire because somebody changed a plug and forgot to snap it back on.

 

Thanks, im. I currently have the Standard Motor Products cam position sensor installed. Replaced factoy and updated factory sensors, and each melted after about 4-5k miles. Current SMPsensor has about 3k miles on it. I can do the tilt/fall reset, but don't hnow if that applies due to the bike being a trike conversion. Worth a try.


Have not been able to ride/look at anything since my OP as the cold and daily wet weather has moved in to E Tx. Bike is covered from weather in open- air shed. Dirt floor. I generally move it to my large covered concrete back porch for maintenance/repair . Wife loves that....

Crank position sensor connection I have not checked yet. Sounds a likely culprit. And I will do the hammer test.

I will defenitly check the cam position sensor 4- wire connections...they are a PITA to feed/reach and plug in on my 98 Ultra . If I replace the cam position sensor again, adding to the back-end 4 wire lengths will be a must for me. My 70 year old hands don't operate as good as before The SMP Cam sensr has only 3 of the 4 wires color matched to factory connections. And there is not even 3/4" extra slack to do the job.
I will update as weather permits. First is the hammer test. I assume the last of your post is in relation to the crank position sensor connection. No problem Ken

 

I think it's 4 wire....do remember 1 wire not color-matched. And been told the SMP sensor does not melt....solid state. Maybe go back to expensive OEM part At least I can see when they're going bad. Ken

 

I did have an SMP cps that at 3000-3100 rpm would miss on one cylinder that I though was carb related but wasn't.. ohm testing showed nothing but when I replaced it my issue went away.. it maybe had 3k miles on it.. And like I said as cheap *** they are I carry an extra as well as a coil, plugs, wires and ignition module.. You never know..

 

Will probably go that route, 98. Damn things sure don't last long . Wanting $250 on HD site now IIRC.
Out of my league. Another SMP on order. Ken