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Have you pulled the primary cover or clutch release cover yet? You may not need to remove the comp if your problem is under the clutch release cover on the right side of the bike. That would normally be the first place to look but your starter not engaging as well makes me think your problem might be under the primary cover
Have you pulled the primary cover or clutch release cover yet? You may not need to remove the comp if your problem is under the clutch release cover on the right side of the bike. That would normally be the first place to look but your starter not engaging as well makes me think your problem might be under the primary cover
Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Have you looked at the jam nut on your cable adjuster yet?
Watch the vid guys, he's got serious clutch hub issues of some kind, it's coming completely apart, only reason to go into the cable side small housing is if the throwout bearings gone too.
Watch the vid guys, he's got serious clutch hub issues of some kind, it's coming completely apart, only reason to go into the cable side small housing is if the throwout bearings gone too.
YEP: I think so too. I would change that bearing anyway in this situation. It is pressed in to the clutch yes?
The left hand nut was loose. It looks good. I am waiting on socket for compensator nut/bolt.
The clutch is completely off the key. This is going to make removing the compensator bolt a real joy.
Last edited by SpringerSoftail2020; Feb 18, 2023 at 06:03 PM.
Watch the vid guys, he's got serious clutch hub issues of some kind, it's coming completely apart, only reason to go into the cable side small housing is if the throwout bearings gone too.
... or to pull the gear set and replace the transmission main shaft.
Originally Posted by SpringerSoftail2020
YEP: I think so too. I would change that bearing anyway in this situation. It is pressed in to the clutch yes?
The left hand nut was loose. It looks good. I am waiting on socket for compensator nut/bolt.
The clutch is completely off the key. This is going to make removing the compensator bolt a real joy.
Put the clutch assembly back on the shaft and torque the nut (50 ft/lb) to get the comp nut off. If it won't torque, the hub is cracked but that will hold it up for a flat bar to foul the sprockets if you don't have an impact wrench for the comp nut.
Most likely the the hub is cracked and the key is trashed is what caused the whole thing to turn loose in the first place. You won't know about a hub bearing until the diaphragm spring, plates and discs are out. And if the hub is to be replaced, of course a new bearing is required anyway. 50/50 chance whether the transmission shaft survives, but that's not real complicated to replace it. Dread and cost of extra parts are the worst parts of that job.
I wouldn't, because the bike has a 5 piece crankshaft and if that compensator nut is frozen on the shaft, there's always the risk of spinning the sprocket shaft taper in the flywheel. Not likely, but possible.....
I wouldn't, because the bike has a 5 piece crankshaft and if that compensator nut is frozen on the shaft, there's always the risk of spinning the sprocket shaft taper in the flywheel. Not likely, but possible.....
Propane torch, heat the nut a bit and rent the bigger Milwaukee 18V 1/2" impact, easy peasy. In 40 plus years doing the old ones and many many cranks I've never seen one spin in this case. I've seen far more damage done not using an impact
I have spun one but there was way too much happy hand involved with a built engine and a seriously impressive through second gear burnout in Angels Camp
It seems to me that if you can tighten down the clutch hub nut so that it's reasonably true, you can use a jam bar to hold the crank.. I'll agree with Twisted that an impact will work even with a 5 piece crank..
Add: You are probably going to want to replace the primary chain anyway..
Last edited by Max Headflow; Feb 18, 2023 at 09:08 PM.
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