- how do you do the "pump up the drain screw" technique ?
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- and how did you manage to remove the large top-bolt at
the top of each shock ?

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- and when you got the bolt out , did the spring launch ?

thanks.

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I am wondering how you pump up.

I place my frame on blocks so the front wheel is off the ground. Then take a metric socket 32 if I remember right I could check my tools. The socket wrapped in cloth so as not to scratch the chrome nut,place a little pressure on the nut and takes it off. Of course this is after draining and replacing the drain screw. Pour in the correct amount then replace cap.

Very easy job.

By the way when you replaceyour seals to get the seal,I forget what it is called maybe slider bushing in. Use a piece of plumbing plastic pipe that fits over your slider to seat the new bushing. Tech tip, beats a punch to seat it.

 

Me too. What pump do you use to thread it in and get it back up?

 

- thanks for the advice.

- btw , did the spring 'launch' or protrude from the tops ?

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Launch?, no. Protrude?, just a little about 1/2 to 1 inch. That is why you keep a bit of pressure on the nut. It is not hard to put the nut back on, but be sure that you start it straight.

Front springs are easy.

 

Looks like an old thread was revitalized.....and I agree that it sounds like only one fork was done previously....

I change my fork oil every 10k miles. I use automotive "Type F" transmission fluid. With the 35mm forks on my FXEF, I raise the front wheel off the ground by putting jack stands under the highway pegs, drain the oil, and remove the caps. On my forks, the springs are not under any compression with the front wheel raised, so the removal of the top caps is easy.........My first fork seal went bad at 64k miles. I changed seals in both forks and inspected and replaced bushings as necessary. Another 33k miles, and I haven't had any other issues. Convensional forks are easy to tear apart and rebuild without any special tools.

 

If you have an air front end you can put a suction gun on it and suck the fluid up through the drain hole . This is how I change it on my bagger .

 

Another reason for the color change could be a scarred upper tube or a bad dust cover.
As for changing the oil yourself,its an easy job.If you have a jack and can get the front tire off theground,there rerally wont be much tension on the fork springs when you loosen the nut.
I went ahead and replaced the seals on my 84 FXR and it was an easy project for a first timefork seal.I can give some advice if you need it.Doing both seals shouldnt take more that 2 hours at best.