Run and Start Switch R&R Maybe
Shes back to intermittent starting. Diagnosis so far: Battery passes all tests. Wiring at starter relay, and grounds checked and some wires replaced and upgauged. Starter Relay passes all tests.
What doesnt pass is voltage drop test from battery positive to starter solenoid wire, when under load. Manual says < .20, mine is 1.55 Vdc. Thats a lot of wiring and distance from the battery (new cables) thru the main CB to IG switch, over to handlebar switches then back to starter relay and finally solenoid. Ive suspected old corroded starter switch for awhile. So I took it apart, used contact cleaner and air a few times and same problem. So I did a voltage drop test from the OFF switch to the Start switch (maybe one inch?) and voltage drop was .60 volts. That seems huge for inside a housing.
Bottom line, I think Ill get a new OFF/START switches and get in there with the new wires from handlebar to the starter relay.
Please throw me some stuff to try and verify before I do this open heart surgery. ( guess its not that big of a pain ) and I think while I have the front fairing off and gas tank lifted, Ill look at replacing the Red wire from main CB to Control CB up front. That will get me damn near a new starter circuit.
Your bike is one of the bikes that will benefit from adding a second relay in the start circuit.
This will give the start relay a nice fat source of power, eliminating the crazy convoluted path it currently is taking.
I can post a diagram tomorrow.
Here`s the thread:
Link
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jul 9, 2023 at 09:58 PM.
The starter button/switch only activates the starter relay. The power that's sent by the relay to the solenoid comes off the accessory circuit.
So, do your volt drop test starting at the solenoid (1.55 ?) then at post 87a of relay, then post 30 of relay, then at connector of big yellow ACC wire that comes off the main switch and you'll get it narrowed down.
BTW, are you checking voltage drop - as in meter connected to ground checking difference from battery volts to load volts or with the meter connected between positive post and test point of circuit?
I've got to change tires today but will try to check back as I can.... don't waste time and money on start switch. Yes, you can do an extra relay, real simple but it's not like doing one on a Dyna or a Softail. You're subject to fry radio and gauges if not done correctly.
Note: Even if you add the second relay, you should still periodically clean all connections at the circuit breakers, start relay, solenoid, battery cables etc.
Also inspect the contacts inside the starter solenoid.
Link to factory wiring diagram
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jul 10, 2023 at 07:39 AM.
Trending Topics
Note: Even if you add the second relay, you should still periodically clean all connections at the circuit breakers, start relay, solenoid, battery cables etc.
Also inspect the contacts inside the starter solenoid.
Link to factory wiring diagram
Last edited by ShrinerRider; Jul 10, 2023 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Removed wrong info I had posted
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
There is no reason to continue this on the new relay.
Pin 86 should be 12v, and pin 85 should be ground.
In most cases it makes no difference, but some relays are protected by a diode (even some you get from the dealer).
If you connect a diode protected relay with 86 as ground, the relay will be damaged as soon as it gets power.
The diagram is correct as drawn.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jul 10, 2023 at 12:42 PM.
As long as 85 and 86 are used to control the relay in can work wired either way.
Have a good 1 sir
WP


















