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Thanks @t150vej , I thought they were both supposed to be a press fit but wasn't 100% sure. The bearing fit nice into the basket but I could literally slide the hub out of the inner race on the bearing.. Would you have a measurement on what the hub bearing surface diameter should be? I have a new bearing coming.. Might even be today because the old one did have a slight knock in it.. thanks
I don't have a measurement Bob. The book doesn't give an interference spec either. If I crossed the bearing correctly, the inner race ID is 1.3780.
Of the several I've replaced over the years, none were totally bad, just worn and the hub was a little easier to push out than the bearing from the shell. But, no way the hub would have come out of the bearing without a press.
Hopefully it'll all "feel better" with new bearing in hand
I measured both the bearing and the race and on the hub.. I got like you did @t150vej on the bearing 1.377-8" but on the hub no matter where I messed it, even in areas the bearing does not ride, was 1.375".. anyone have a hub floating around They can measure it maybe mine isn't any good, or never was machine properly..
I got the new bearing tonight and it won't just slip on like the old one slipped of.. Measured it and got 1.3765" Definitely tighter than the old bearing.. funny though is when I measured the hub I got 1.375.. I'm wondering if my caliper is off from outside to inside measurements..
I guess it's time to get rid of my fowl or dial calipers...
Well I just got out my old vernier calipers and I got a different measurement with them but one that's more consistent with a tight fit.. I got 1.378" on the hub and 1.375" on the bearing.. I'll have a perfect fit..
I guess it's time to get rid of my Fowler dial calipers. I did however order a new 1-2" outside micrometer..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Nov 8, 2023 at 07:58 PM.
I got the hub and bearing pressed back into the basket.. Everything seems pretty snug a little bit of wear in the basket basket side but I'm not going to worry about it, I'm going to put it back together.. Just waiting for the spring pack and I'll get the primary all tightened up again..
I ordered a new primary cover too, unbranded says from Taiwan so I'm thinking probably a V-Twin.. We'll see how that goes when it gets here..
I got the new bearing tonight and it won't just slip on like the old one slipped of.. Measured it and got 1.3765" Definitely tighter than the old bearing.. funny though is when I measured the hub I got 1.375.. I'm wondering if my caliper is off from outside to inside measurements..
I guess it's time to get rid of my fowl or dial calipers...
Well I just got out my old vernier calipers and I got a different measurement with them but one that's more consistent with a tight fit.. I got 1.378" on the hub and 1.375" on the bearing.. I'll have a perfect fit..
I guess it's time to get rid of my Fowler dial calipers. I did however order a new 1-2" outside micrometer..
I find that high end calipers will do a bit better than the cheapies on measuring ID but they are still not that accurate. Re digital calipers. I have 3 of the older harbor freight ones that are actually pretty good.. The newer HF Pittsburg ones are crap.. Grisly bald eagle slightly better than the Pitts. but they have a big display. The Mitutoyo have the best feel and most constant reading. Still I don't trust them for measuring press fits.
When going for clearances that you want better then couple thou, you should be using a micrometer and snap gauges minimum. My 3 smallest micrometers are Mitutoyo. IMO the second best only to Starrett. Brown and Sharp is a distant 3rd and IMO about the same as Fowler.. Snap-gauges should be better quality.. Starrett / Mit.. With those and an a little practice you get within a couple tenths which is what is really necessary when checking press fits.
I find that high end calipers will do a bit better than the cheapies on measuring ID but they are still not that accurate. Re digital calipers. I have 3 of the older harbor freight ones that are actually pretty good.. The newer HF Pittsburg ones are crap.. Grisly bald eagle slightly better than the Pitts. but they have a big display. The Mitutoyo have the best feel and most constant reading. Still I don't trust them for measuring press fits.
When going for clearances that you want better then couple thou, you should be using a micrometer and snap gauges minimum. My 3 smallest micrometers are Mitutoyo. IMO the second best only to Starrett. Brown and Sharp is a distant 3rd and IMO about the same as Fowler.. Snap-gauges should be better quality.. Starrett / Mit.. With those and an a little practice you get within a couple tenths which is what is really necessary when checking press fits.
I'm starting to see that.. I ordered a 1-2" micrometer and have a 0-1". Eventually I'll have a set to 5".. Nothing like eliminating potential issues.. thanks Max..
Yep, will truth micrometers any day of the week, since you can not over tension them to get a false reading (so long as you are closing them with the ratchet stop for final setting). When it comes to telescoping snap gauges, so long as end of buttons are at least as round as what you are measuring to get the true reading on the middle surface, and set to hold that min dimension on the rotation snap to start with.
Hence were problem comes in between the two, crap telescoping snap gauges in the first place that have too much slop of rod to channels, or end button ends too wide for the radius that you are trying to measure in the first place.
As for the Fowler dial indicators, would just send them in to be checked/repaired.
Worst case, they are just worn out, but as least they will give you a hell of rebate on the replacements for a new set if not covered up life time warrenty instead. https://www.fowlerprecision.com/repair
Yep, will truth micrometers any day of the week, since you can not over tension them to get a false reading (so long as you are closing them with the ratchet stop for final setting). When it comes to telescoping snap gauges, so long as end of buttons are at least as round as what you are measuring to get the true reading on the middle surface, and set to hold that min dimension on the rotation snap to start with.
Hence were problem comes in between the two, crap telescoping snap gauges in the first place that have too much slop of rod to channels, or end button ends too wide for the radius that you are trying to measure in the first place.
As for the Fowler dial indicators, would just send them in to be checked/repaired.
Worst case, they are just worn out, but as least they will give you a hell of rebate on the replacements for a new set if not covered up life time warrenty instead. https://www.fowlerprecision.com/repair
Got a set of BnS snap gauges where the 1/2 to 3/4 has the wrong radius.. Can't make the good measurement..
I went to start the bike up today with a dry primary.. I didn't button that up totally cuz I just want to see if the charging system was putting out the way it should be.. Just my luck, it wouldn't start again and wore the battery down then a big bang out the exhaust.. Turns out my dying at 2KI is no good..
I have other ignitions sitting up in a box on the shelf.. Screaming Eagle and another Dyna P but I figured this to be perfect time to try that cheap *** $50 one I just got off a flea bay... Just seems too many things happening all of a sudden.. I guess it's never just one thing. Anyways that ignition actually turned out pretty good.. The bike started up nicely and sounds good.. I'm even getting better and steady AFR readings, not jumping around like it was...
Here it ain't even winter and I'm already doing more than I wanted to.. Not the normal winter routine work.. Still waiting for the spring pack though..
That's the third Dyna 2ki that's gone bad on me.. Not sure I'll be buying them again Maybe just stick with the cheapos.. either that or I'll go back to a screaming Eagle module with the pickup plate in the nose cone.. I never had any real issues with that setup.. Just once the pickup went in the nose cone, a Standard motor product one.. We'll see how long this cheapo/unbranded unit lasts.. PS: I'll definitely be carrying a complete extra ignition in the bags..
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