Okay so I got myself a basketcase for cheap working through the issues I have a few that are driving me nuts I'll try to keep it straight.
1986 Evo, Delkron case, s+s carb, I assume it's stroked.
I assembled it enough to get it to start, it wouldn't start. so..
I cleaned the carb, cleaned the cables, cleaned the starter solenoid, had a local rebuilder rebuild the starter, advanced the timing like 1 degree.. Now it starts and runs pretty well for 1 to 2 min. then it dies abruptly. It doesn't peter out, it just stops. It wont restart until thoroughly cold, so like an hour or so. It doesn't run long enough to get hot but it does get warm.

It's not charging, I haven't had it running long enough to check the stator/regulator. It occasionally backfires, sometimes out the exhaust other times from the carb. More of a puff rather than flames.

So... Fuel, Carb? Ignition? Coil? Sort of lost here.. It's too early for the parts cannon, I need to see what I've got first..

Here's the ignition..

There's an oil leak from the bottom of the rear tappet cover do these rod covers come off? I assume it has adjustable rods, I'd like to fix the leak.

 

When it initially dies on you, at that moment I would check for spark first . It's going to be a process, eliminate one thing at a time..

 

sounds like a coil issue.

 

Not charging could be why it dies if it's only running on battery power.

To me, your pickup looks like it's dead too.

What kind of petcock does it have? The vacuum operated one suck and give intermittent running issues when the seal starts going bad.

You said that it won't start again until it sufficiently cools off. That would lead me to the ignition pickup.

 

Hard to tell without some trouble shooting/investigating.

At this point we don't know if it is fuel related or spark (electrical) related. OP needs to check for spark after it dies then we can go from there.

If I was to guess: I don't like the looks of the cam sensor goo melting (fairly common failure). Failing electrical components shut down when hot, then work OK when cooled down, rinse and repeat.

 

Thanks for all the replies.. Will look for spark after it dies..

 

I had the same issue on my 1997 FLHT. Turned out to be the 50 amp main breaker would trip once it heated up.

 

30 Amp...I'm betting!!!! But...Never had a Newer "Barge"

 

Agree with 2 posts - the brown gue on the ignition trigger is a common shut off and starts again cold

and the coil does the same thing as soon as it warms up it cuts out

the battery and or charging system is not in play as it with a charge battery run for a 1/2 hour or more - fix the spark issue do both 3 ohm coil and trigger with spark plug wires

if not you will still be posting come spring for ideas

 

Would check the cam sensor, but after market replaces is only $60, and with yours melting, would be the first thing to replace.
Just mark the U location on the sensor now, and install the new one to the same U mark.

The coil is easy enough to ohm out to check it, and on the petcock, would make sure that it vacuum line. also check the vacum switch tubings is not cracked when you are at the carb..
Bank angle sensor not part of the cam sensor, would double check to see if its a problem or not.

I problem is no fuel, then petcock vacum line would most likey be the problem, if not the petcock just debried up, and not flowing fast enough when it does have vacum.
No spark, either bad cam sensor when hot, broken tubing to vacuum sensor killing the vacum to sensor, bad bank angle sensor killing the spark, or just bad coil. If problem turns out to be bad ignition module, then just go aftermarket unit that will replace the cam sensor in it entity, since that unit will go in the nose cone cavity instead.

On charging, easy enough to ohm out the stator to see if it burnt, or has continuity to ground, has AC output with the motor running
and as for the voltage regulator, would check to make sure ground is grounded well, and on the age of the bike, main breaker is cheap enough to replace as well. Hence figure out if

As for lifter blocks, if adjustable push rods, and pull the cover tubes to adjust the rods down to pull them, without having to pull the rocker covers and rocker assemblies to pull the push rods. From here, clean the old gaskets, reinstall with new gaskets, and when installing the lifter blocks, make sure to use the alignment bolts to index the block oil passages to the case ports.


As for lifters, would given then a one over to see if they need to be replaced (worn rollers), take a look down into the nose cone cavity to get an idea of the cam lobs to see if their case hardning is work. when you go to re-install the lifters back in the same location, the side oil ports of all lifters will aim to jugs. To hold the lifter in the blocks when you reinstall them, Clip from a large paper clip does the trick for cheap.