Starter removal question
If you leave a little of the old brush cables each spot welded point, then soldering the new cable to them, it a lot better then trying to solder to the old spot welded areas.
As for brushes, easy to check to see if they are worn down to the point they needed to be replaced and it really more of cleaning up the commutator contact pads, and getting the brush dust out of the slots between them.
As for the sealed bearing, easy to pull the seal off one side, to clean them up with still on rotor with WD 40, then re-grease with a good grease before re-instaling the seals.
As for starter clutch, if you can catch it before it before its grease in the one way clutch goes south (the end ball bearings are easy to pull the seals and re-grease them), not hard to pull them apart so you can clean and re-grease the one way gear parts, but if not geared up to pull one apart, then just replace with an all ball unit.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...89a3e2a1e2.jpg
Hence the one way inner catch gear, if the grease starts to dry up, end up not allowing the detentes to spring all the way back out cleanly to fully engage, ends up with the gears inner catch points just worn out instead,
I have a couple of questions before I tackle this repair.
1. Do I need to physically remove the oil tank or will there be enough room to just remove the locknuts from the rubber mounts and shift the oil tank?
2. I've recently rebuilt the starter on my 2011 Ultra. With that motorcycle, HD offers two different repair kits, one for the solenoid and one for the starter clutch. For the 1993 Fatboy, I only see the one repair kit for the solenoid. While I have the starter out, are there any other components I should replace, like the starter clutch, etc?
3. Are there any other parts I should replace, like the battery wires, etc?
TIA
- Starter jackshaft bolt will need removed so you will need to remove the primary cover
- You can mabye get a socket extension to remove the front bolt holding the starter motor in place but the clearance to access the rear bolt is super tight. I usually remove all the bolts that hold the oil tank in place and slide it out (all hoses still connected) slightly until I have enough room to remove the bolt and motor without causing any damage.
I have a couple of questions before I tackle this repair.
1. Do I need to physically remove the oil tank or will there be enough room to just remove the locknuts from the rubber mounts and shift the oil tank?
2. I've recently rebuilt the starter on my 2011 Ultra. With that motorcycle, HD offers two different repair kits, one for the solenoid and one for the starter clutch. For the 1993 Fatboy, I only see the one repair kit for the solenoid. While I have the starter out, are there any other components I should replace, like the starter clutch, etc?
3. Are there any other parts I should replace, like the battery wires, etc?
TIA
Next, I had to pull the oil tank when I removed the starter on my '93 FLSTC.
As for the starter bolts I took a quarter inch T handle Allen wrench and cut it down and now have a 6-in straight Allen wrench that I put into a 1/4" socket and have no issues accessing the bolts..
When I recently rebuilt the starter on my 2011 Ultra, it made a huge difference in speed/power of the starter.
I don't have the hose clamps on my oil lines. Years ago I installed the HD Braided Oil Hose Kit (HD #63705-97). Instruction Sheet J01079 attached. My oil lines have little fittings on them. Just this past weekend I ordered new oil hose seals (HD #63717-97) just in case I do have to remove the oil tank.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...1362/205671801
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
When I recently rebuilt the starter on my 2011 Ultra, it made a huge difference in speed/power of the starter.












