Any good auto electric rebuilder will have brush sets. That being said, these starters are very easy on brushes so they seldom need to be replaced. They factory brushes are spot welded to the field coils, and soldering the new brushes isn't as good as a spot weld.

 

Got it, thanks for the info

 

If you leave a little of the old brush cables each spot welded point, then soldering the new cable to them, it a lot better then trying to solder to the old spot welded areas.

As for brushes, easy to check to see if they are worn down to the point they needed to be replaced and it really more of cleaning up the commutator contact pads, and getting the brush dust out of the slots between them.

As for the sealed bearing, easy to pull the seal off one side, to clean them up with still on rotor with WD 40, then re-grease with a good grease before re-instaling the seals.


As for starter clutch, if you can catch it before it before its grease in the one way clutch goes south (the end ball bearings are easy to pull the seals and re-grease them), not hard to pull them apart so you can clean and re-grease the one way gear parts, but if not geared up to pull one apart, then just replace with an all ball unit.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...89a3e2a1e2.jpg

Hence the one way inner catch gear, if the grease starts to dry up, end up not allowing the detentes to spring all the way back out cleanly to fully engage, ends up with the gears inner catch points just worn out instead,

 

Great info!!

 

Looks like most have answered but just to add input as I have done this a number of times on my softail

- Starter jackshaft bolt will need removed so you will need to remove the primary cover
- You can mabye get a socket extension to remove the front bolt holding the starter motor in place but the clearance to access the rear bolt is super tight. I usually remove all the bolts that hold the oil tank in place and slide it out (all hoses still connected) slightly until I have enough room to remove the bolt and motor without causing any damage.

 

First, what do you mean by, "the starter seems weak?"
Next, I had to pull the oil tank when I removed the starter on my '93 FLSTC.

 

It's more of a pain in the *** try to finagle the oil tank to get the starter out then it is to just remove it because you have to remove all the mounts And you have to remove the battery cables that go down through the middle of the oil tank The only thing you have left is three hose clamps.. It really makes no sense to try to fight it...

As for the starter bolts I took a quarter inch T handle Allen wrench and cut it down and now have a 6-in straight Allen wrench that I put into a 1/4" socket and have no issues accessing the bolts..

 

Battery is good. When I press the start button, the motorcycle seems to take a second or two before the starter turns. My guess is the plunger and field terminals are either dirty or pitted.
When I recently rebuilt the starter on my 2011 Ultra, it made a huge difference in speed/power of the starter.


Hmmm, maybe I'll just remove the oil tank.
I don't have the hose clamps on my oil lines. Years ago I installed the HD Braided Oil Hose Kit (HD #63705-97). Instruction Sheet J01079 attached. My oil lines have little fittings on them. Just this past weekend I ordered new oil hose seals (HD #63717-97) just in case I do have to remove the oil tank.


I picked up the Tekton #1362 (3/8" Drive 1/8-3/8 in. Extra Long Hex Bit Socket Set, 7-Piece) a few years ago. Nice kit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...1362/205671801

 

Thanks for the oil line kit link.. I used to have the braided as well with the compression seals but something happened and one of the outside braids somehow puncture the holes on the inside and made it leak so I just took them all off cuz I was getting tired of the seals leaking and just went to braided fuel line hose... Maybe one of these days I'll get that kid again cuz it does look nice... Thanks..

 

I've been fighting that **** for a couple of years. Before you pull the starter, separate all the plugs under the seat and clean them. Then take a line direct from the battery to the starter. If it works properly your problem isn't the starter. I've changed starters, batteries and everything in between and haven't found the damn problem yet. From what I can tell neither has anybody else but if you do please let me know directly!