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MM is not that bad, and just have to understand it, before you can wrench on it.
Hell, the whole swap to Carb from MM, is right up there to ripping the electronics/voes off the bike, and going back to blue streak points with mech weight advance as well.
Note, with the problem of some of the after market electronics ignitions going south on the quick side, good blue streak points conversion with 5ohm coils is not as evil as it sounds.
The blue streak points set come with lube pad to keep the cam lubed to slow down point pad wear, and the coil wire bolts to the unit, not just spring loaded connection point that cause plasma burn points on the cheaper kits that come with questionable point and condenser to begin with.
The last one, since ground is on the chassis, and channel in nose cone for wire is large enough even with grommet, run an extra wire off the backing plate at condenser bolt, to take that to chassis ground . This weeds out questionable problems with the engine to frame grounding problems right at the points.
MM is not that bad, and just have to understand it, before you can wrench on it.
Hell, the whole swap to Carb from MM, is right up there to ripping the electronics/voes off the bike, and going back to blue streak points with mech weight advance as well.
Note, with the problem of some of the after market electronics ignitions going south on the quick side, good blue streak points conversion with 5ohm coils is not as evil as it sounds.
The blue streak points set come with lube pad to keep the cam lubed to slow down point pad wear, and the coil wire bolts to the unit, not just spring loaded connection point that cause plasma burn points on the cheaper kits that come with questionable point and condenser to begin with.
The last one, since ground is on the chassis, and channel in nose cone for wire is large enough even with grommet, run an extra wire off the backing plate at condenser bolt, to take that to chassis ground . This weeds out questionable problems with the engine to frame grounding problems right at the points.
Problem is, not many people really understand it, I have been wrenching Harleys for 40+ years and just won't tackle MM, I know my limits lol!
There appears to be no follow-up from original poster.
Unfortunate since a lot of good information was shared.
In regards to the engine head temp sensor used in the Evo MM bikes....
The Evo and twin cam are not directly interchangeable since size, thread and electrical connection might be different.
The twin cam temp sensor is much shorter and I have not seen documented information regarding resistance numbers.
On the other hand the resistance numbers related to temp are known for the factory Evo unit and are documented in the service book.
The Evo sensor appears to be simple thermistor within the long holder that is bolted to the head.
Most likely located very close to plastic electrical connection end.
The thermistor is probably coated in a high temp sealant in the Evo unit and would probably look like nothing when dissected since it is so tiny.
A thermistor available via digi-key with similar Evo resistance values is a tiny thing with a head about half the size of a small wood box match and just two thin single strand wires exiting that tiny head.
A forum member a while back reported taking a dead unit apart and found nothing but that is understandable since the actual working part of sensor is tiny.
They worked on the 2 MM evo with a machinist making an extension so it could go through the rocker boxes to screw in the center of the head.
Used one on my 08 ultra and one on the boys 11 SG.
Ours are doing good and best I know so are the evo's
If you still got my phone # your welcome to call
WP
Hi!
Just a quick question: what material was used to make the extension? I was thinking of using copper to minimize heat dissipation, but Im not sure how its typically done.
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