Being out of work for the last 4 months I could've used the money elsewhere..

 

Is that the 320L Softail low voltage version?

 

​​​​​​ Yes it is and that probably explains the fact that it's only putting out 13.6 v at 2000 RPM.. ****....

 

To make matters worse, I went out for a ride to see if the voltage would come up beyond 13.6... Sometimes 13.7 - 13.8.. So not too worried still over what it should be but anyways not even 2 miles out the bike it started spitting and sputtering and wouldn't accelerate and felt like it was out of fuel and then died.. I'm like son of a bitch Good thing I have my saddle bag full of parts.. I tried a coil first then the ignition module, still nothing and then I replaced the cam position sensor and it fired right up.. Those things don't last as long as I wish they did... So much for aftermarket.. It was a standard motor products. MC-SPA3..

 

32400-80B $95 and change

 

Been running MC-SPA3's for years, so question really comes done to how much extra heat is your nose cone area seeing at the sensor area to cause problems (and oem sensors to have melt down problems as well), or was the problem that old over voltage problem that started to do it in to begin hand, and caused it quick demise now..

 

You'd have a field day rooting around my stash pile then. Digging it all out slowly getting pics and descriptions, be dropping some in here like did the tools overflow last year eventually. And yeah whole lot of stuff I'd forgotten I had or the used where did this come from crates full?

On a side note been helping some off Facebook with ignition issues, looking around a decent mechanical advance unit is getting hard to find, lot of the usual places have dropped them.

 

I do believe the higher voltage did take out my hall effect pickup.. With the new regulator which I was told is the low voltage one, the CE320L I no longer get flashing light on my Dakota Digital speedometer.. It only puts out 13.68 v at 2000 rpm and 13.1 v at idle.. Does this sound normal and do I have any worries not getting 14.0-14.3 v back to the battery..??
I really don't have much of a load on the battery.. I'm currently running LED headlamp and rear turn signals other than that there's the electronic ignition so I'm really not drawing much current from the battery when running..
Will say I took a little 50 mile lap today and all is well..

 

I think your good, from the CE site,
" Reconnect battery and start motor. Test battery voltage. All “L” model regulators should run between 13.7~14.1 Standard models should run 14.2 to 14.6 depending on what model you have."

 

I'm also getting a small drop from starter motor to positive terminal on battery .2 v drop.. when measured at the 30 amp circuit breaker I have 13.86v and 13.68@battery.. Pretty sure those wires are original.. I'm going to use welding cable from solenoid to battery and 10 gauge from solenoid to circuit breaker maybe even 8.. I know 10 is good to 30 amp so thinking 8 couldn't hurt..