Ignition Woes...
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: SE Louisiana
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
Yes it is and that probably explains the fact that it's only putting out 13.6 v at 2000 RPM.. ****....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Aug 15, 2024 at 03:44 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
To make matters worse, I went out for a ride to see if the voltage would come up beyond 13.6... Sometimes 13.7 - 13.8.. So not too worried still over what it should be but anyways not even 2 miles out the bike it started spitting and sputtering and wouldn't accelerate and felt like it was out of fuel and then died.. I'm like son of a bitch Good thing I have my saddle bag full of parts.. I tried a coil first then the ignition module, still nothing and then I replaced the cam position sensor and it fired right up.. Those things don't last as long as I wish they did... So much for aftermarket.. It was a standard motor products. MC-SPA3..
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From: Colorado
Been running MC-SPA3's for years, so question really comes done to how much extra heat is your nose cone area seeing at the sensor area to cause problems (and oem sensors to have melt down problems as well), or was the problem that old over voltage problem that started to do it in to begin hand, and caused it quick demise now..
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
You'd have a field day rooting around my stash pile then. Digging it all out slowly getting pics and descriptions, be dropping some in here like did the tools overflow last year eventually. And yeah whole lot of stuff I'd forgotten I had or the used where did this come from crates full?
On a side note been helping some off Facebook with ignition issues, looking around a decent mechanical advance unit is getting hard to find, lot of the usual places have dropped them.
On a side note been helping some off Facebook with ignition issues, looking around a decent mechanical advance unit is getting hard to find, lot of the usual places have dropped them.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Aug 16, 2024 at 03:21 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,091
Likes: 7,612
From: Poolville
Been running MC-SPA3's for years, so question really comes done to how much extra heat is your nose cone area seeing at the sensor area to cause problems (and oem sensors to have melt down problems as well), or was the problem that old over voltage problem that started to do it in to begin hand, and caused it quick demise now..
I really don't have much of a load on the battery.. I'm currently running LED headlamp and rear turn signals other than that there's the electronic ignition so I'm really not drawing much current from the battery when running..
Will say I took a little 50 mile lap today and all is well..
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: SE Louisiana
I think your good, from the CE site,
" Reconnect battery and start motor. Test battery voltage. All “L” model regulators should run between 13.7~14.1 Standard models should run 14.2 to 14.6 depending on what model you have."
" Reconnect battery and start motor. Test battery voltage. All “L” model regulators should run between 13.7~14.1 Standard models should run 14.2 to 14.6 depending on what model you have."
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
I'm also getting a small drop from starter motor to positive terminal on battery .2 v drop.. when measured at the 30 amp circuit breaker I have 13.86v and 13.68@battery.. Pretty sure those wires are original.. I'm going to use welding cable from solenoid to battery and 10 gauge from solenoid to circuit breaker maybe even 8.. I know 10 is good to 30 amp so thinking 8 couldn't hurt..