We’ll this was a tough and ugly one.. I hope it’s sorted. Gremlins like this seem to resurface after one thinks they’ve solved it. Some personalities pick and pick at it and they want to know, understand and trouble shoot down to the smallest detail and replace exactly what needs to be replaced. I admire that skill set and patience. Life is so short I struggle to be of that mindset.. I let the banjo theme music play in my head and go all cowboy and rip everything out and replace with all new because for me it’s faster and lest aggravating.

In your shoes I would have maybe tested once with a multi to get some readings, but if nothing jumped out I would have replaced coil first.. cleaned every ground everywhere, when that didn’t work I’d replace the entire ignition system and plug wires.. when that didn’t work I’d start bypassing the wiring harness and get it running and work from there. Like I said, cowboy with little detail thinking. I don’t know if it’s a lack of brain power or just a stubborn zero patience thing. No clue if the speedometer would have occurred to me.

My hats off to you for sticking with it and being as methodical as you were. @Max Headflow you continue to amaze me with your detailed thinking. I’m just a trial and error kind of guy. Sorta “here hold my beer” kinda thought process. I only really enjoy new builds with fresh parts. I do the maintenance when needed but enjoy just the new.

‘’I’ll say this.. being a shovel guy and not having a lot of money in the beginning really trained me to keep up with and meticulously go over a bike constantly. Never never let them see your bike bleed. If someone breaks down let it be the wallet rider with the dealer warranty that holds the group up along the side of the road. NEVER let it be the Shovel, don’t give them the satisfaction or the ammunition to start in on the AMF ain’t a real Harley or the “well if that’s all you can afford” I love riding older iron with a soul. Be it EVO, Shovel, Pan..

Hope this stays fixed and doesn’t cause you to lose your sense of humor. Ride safe.

 

Thanks for the kind words.. My way of troubleshooting is to understand how it works first. Many think they do when the really don't.. I've been tripped up more than once due to misunderstanding.

Also anyone who think that experience trumps knowledge / education is an idjut..

Same goes for anyone that thinks education trumps experience..

You need both.. I've troubleshot a lot of stuff as a MC mechanic / technician / engineer. I enjoy it when I can figure out what was wrong and understand why.. Still, I've had problems where someone told me the fix based on experience and refused to try it because I didn't understand the core issue.. Come to find out that the experienced fix was the good one but I had to understand the core issue first.. Still I learned a lot in the process..

We still don't know if HRFB did change the coil or if it's even fixed.

I still don't know if he was blowing the output of the dyna 2000P or simply flipping switch 6 from single to dual..

 

I totally agree with you @Max Headflow You're above statement is very accurate...
I did change the coil and I did flip the switch to dual fire and running a stock coil OEM..
And right now it is running absolutely perfect, purrs like a kitten and roars like a lion...
I still believe it was voltage spikes that took out the processor for single fire application and being in single fire mode when the damage occurred it didn't do damage to the dual fire selection.. Time will tell.. And thank you, I always appreciate your input as well as most others here..

 

I'm not reading through whole the thread, SO
Did you change out the dual fire coil to a single fire coil when you were running it in single fire mode?
You can't just flip the switch without swapping the coil unless you jumped the 2 coil posts together.
A single fire coil has 3 terminals.

 

Actually that's just it which was telling me that the module was no good, I should not have been able to flip from single fire to dual fire mode on the ignition module and keep the single fire coil on there.. It didn't make sense to me either but it worked... I don't get it either..

However everything is dual fire right now including OEM coil..
And it's running extremely well right now..

 

So you are saying that simply switching from single fire to dual fire on the module and the system worked fine?

There is one thing to note.. When doing that, IIRC, the module simply drives the dual fire signal out on both primary wires. If that works then it's simply noise in the system confusing the processor. There is nothing to burn out.. Both circuits are good.. I'd put money on that the signals are driven by the micro controller in the module. All the switch settings do is tell what the microcontroller needs to do. If what you were saying is true, the software in the module was somehow modified. A glitch won't to that. It typically kills the processor. At this point, I'd contact Dynatek and ask them what is going on..

 

I really don't believe that there is any advantage to single fire over dual fire, except for some reason you wanted to use different timing for the front and rear cylinders. If the wasted spark on the exhaust stroke is making it pop, the bike is running too rich.

 

Back at it, voltage spikes returned... Over the last month and about a thousand miles my voltage is slowly creeping up. It is now up to 15.1 - 15.2 volts even at idle when hot.. I did an AC test on the alternator and I got at 1050 RPMs 19 volts AC and a 2000 RPM I'm at 35 volts AC nice and steady... I doubt the stator rotor are at any kind of cause to this. I did just order brand new cycle electric regulator and we'll see what happens.. last thing I want to do is overcharge the battery and ruin it..

 

Crap, I ordered a new cycle electric regulator yesterday but should have looked on the shelf first.. Dang..

 

I like spare parts... even the ones I've forgotten I have.