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AFAIK and what I’ve been told there is no difference in power, however the motor will run smoother with single fire and get less spits and sputters.
Not so sure about that statement, but I will say if you wanted to run more consistent and smoother, get rid of the OEM rotor (timing cup). The OEM ignition rotor.. They do flex and get out of round.. I personally experienced it.. I bought the CNC aluminum timing cup from Hammer performance.. It's solid aluminum nice and solid..
I have a thread with pictures around here somewhere showing the damage to the cam position sensors (CPS), and it turned out that it wasn't the CPS. It was the oem timing rotor that was no longer round and was taken out the CPS..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Aug 18, 2025 at 05:43 PM.
Not so sure about that statement, but I will say if you wanted to run more consistent and smoother, get rid of the OEM rotor (timing cup). The OEM ignition rotor.. They do flex and get out of round.. I personally experienced it.. I bought the CNC aluminum timing cup from Hammer performance.. It's solid aluminum nice and solid..
I have a thread with pictures around here somewhere showing the damage to the cam position sensors (CPS), and it turned out that it wasn't the CPS. It was the oem timing rotor that was no longer round and was taken out the CPS..
True about the rotor. I bought the Hammer Performance rotor its a machined piece of steel.
AFAIK and what I’ve been told there is no difference in power, however the motor will run smoother with single fire and get less spits and sputters.
As Measured How?? I call Marketing Strategy BS
Spend more Money...Gotta be Better!!!!
Edit; Some Claim..that the sound difference can be distinguished.. if true... The Stock Dual Fire says "Giddyup, GiddyUp"
Stick yer Taters!!!
Last edited by Racepres; Aug 18, 2025 at 06:59 PM.
Not so sure about that statement, but I will say if you wanted to run more consistent and smoother, get rid of the OEM rotor (timing cup). The OEM ignition rotor.. They do flex and get out of round.. I personally experienced it.. I bought the CNC aluminum timing cup from Hammer performance.. It's solid aluminum nice and solid..
I have a thread with pictures around here somewhere showing the damage to the cam position sensors (CPS), and it turned out that it wasn't the CPS. It was the oem timing rotor that was no longer round and was taken out the CPS..
Sounds like someone smacked the rotor or it wasn't installed right.. That thing spins what 3500 max. My 113 used to run with a 7000 rpm rev limit.. Never an issue.. Maybe more on a hot sporty?
You sure the Hammer rotor was aluminum? I'd guess it'd work if the sensor was optical but I thought they were all Hall effect?
Last edited by Max Headflow; Aug 19, 2025 at 02:12 PM.
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