? about EV27
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From: Pine Flat Dam/South Bay Area, CA
The best all-around exhaust is stock headers with the crossover and Cycle Shack slip on mufflers. S&S, Bob Wood, and countless other builders and tuners have the same results .
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From: Florida
Agreed for street and even street / strip type bikes. Magaro’s 10 second street bike is cycle shack slip ons. His 8.90’s bike (street legal 130 rear tire, no bar or shift assistance. Is drag pipes. But that really more strip and very little street.
Last edited by Rains2much; Sep 30, 2025 at 09:43 AM.
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From: South Carolina
Unfortunately, Cycle Shack is long gone...
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Sep 30, 2025 at 09:50 AM.
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From: Beyond Fucital
Changed them right after I did the Mikuni for that reason, to rule them out.
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Couple things on the exhaust. Someone made a clone back n the day of those radius pipes that were three step tuned and they made great power at the track and on a dyno. I don’t remember the brand.. I actually have a pair squirreled away. But I’ve seen the numbers… “those” are no joke.
Again… broken record… Drag pipes are superior to everything else IF YOU TUNE THEM!. Specific steps, specific diameter at each step, specific length of each step. Superior as in MAKE MORE POWER ON THE DYNO AGAINST ALL including 2 INTO 1 PIPES. & Run faster times at the track. They are difficult to build and costly because they are one off for every bike to get right.
hot bike did a massive shoot out of different pipes. Like over 50 different pipes. At the end of the day (forget everyone crying about what happens at 2000 rpm)… drag pipes even the untuned just 36-40 inch long ones with a bolt in the end made within 2 hp from all other pipes. I know you guys don’t wanna believe that but all your crying is over 2 hp… these are averages from 50 different pipes.
I believe the test bike was an 80” EVO with mild cam, 10:1 pistons, dynatech ignition and performance carb. They also ran a mild hopped up twinkie with fuel…. Same results.
Here’s another FACT PROVEN BY their experiment… in the top 5 highest average hp and torque pipes… 3 of the top 5 were drag pipes with a bolt in the end… Thunderheader did not make the top 5 list. Look it up!
If memory serves the “worst” were especially long anything… Fishtails and massive 2 or 2 1/4 inch drags… yes those sucked. You really should look up the article. It’s fascinating and blows out of the water all the arm chair blanket statements that get made about exhaust.
Again… broken record… Drag pipes are superior to everything else IF YOU TUNE THEM!. Specific steps, specific diameter at each step, specific length of each step. Superior as in MAKE MORE POWER ON THE DYNO AGAINST ALL including 2 INTO 1 PIPES. & Run faster times at the track. They are difficult to build and costly because they are one off for every bike to get right.
hot bike did a massive shoot out of different pipes. Like over 50 different pipes. At the end of the day (forget everyone crying about what happens at 2000 rpm)… drag pipes even the untuned just 36-40 inch long ones with a bolt in the end made within 2 hp from all other pipes. I know you guys don’t wanna believe that but all your crying is over 2 hp… these are averages from 50 different pipes.
I believe the test bike was an 80” EVO with mild cam, 10:1 pistons, dynatech ignition and performance carb. They also ran a mild hopped up twinkie with fuel…. Same results.
Here’s another FACT PROVEN BY their experiment… in the top 5 highest average hp and torque pipes… 3 of the top 5 were drag pipes with a bolt in the end… Thunderheader did not make the top 5 list. Look it up!
If memory serves the “worst” were especially long anything… Fishtails and massive 2 or 2 1/4 inch drags… yes those sucked. You really should look up the article. It’s fascinating and blows out of the water all the arm chair blanket statements that get made about exhaust.
Can't tell you the number of disgruntled individuals I've had this conversation with when doing a preflight chat with them coming in wanting a cam job or pipes and their choices for them. Learned quick give them what they want and 3 weeks later you hear through the rumor mill your being trash talked because they spent all that money and the bike is a pig around town daily riding. Even better when they do the crawl through a few shops get charged out the *** and occasionally lose even more ground.
I got where I wasn't getting a reasonable vib up front I'd pass on the job, and you are still a POS that couldn't handle it. This was the late evo and the big inch kit choppers heyday days. Personally I'm a big fan of the Competition Cams VThunder series for the shovels and Evo's but they went by the wayside in the popularity games. Made good power in the right ranges and easy on the liters and valve train, nice and quite too.
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From: Florida
See this is the thing and we're back to the 2000 rpm bit. Impacts cam choice and pipes both, as Joe Common guy buys either based on all the fan fair about HP made on dyno sheets ignoring the fact 98% of daily riding we live in the 1700 to 4000 rpm range, not out on the edge making the strip or dyno ponies as advertised.
Can't tell you the number of disgruntled individuals I've had this conversation with when doing a preflight chat with them coming in wanting a cam job or pipes and their choices for them. Learned quick give them what they want and 3 weeks later you hear through the rumor mill your being trash talked because they spent all that money and the bike is a pig around town daily riding. Even better when they do the crawl through a few shops get charged out the *** and occasionally lose even more ground.
I got where I wasn't getting a reasonable vib up front I'd pass on the job, and you are still a POS that couldn't handle it. This was the late evo and the big inch kit choppers heyday days. Personally I'm a big fan of the Competition Cams VThunder series for the shovels and Evo's but they went by the wayside in the popularity games. Made good power in the right ranges and easy on the liters and valve train, nice and quite too.
Can't tell you the number of disgruntled individuals I've had this conversation with when doing a preflight chat with them coming in wanting a cam job or pipes and their choices for them. Learned quick give them what they want and 3 weeks later you hear through the rumor mill your being trash talked because they spent all that money and the bike is a pig around town daily riding. Even better when they do the crawl through a few shops get charged out the *** and occasionally lose even more ground.
I got where I wasn't getting a reasonable vib up front I'd pass on the job, and you are still a POS that couldn't handle it. This was the late evo and the big inch kit choppers heyday days. Personally I'm a big fan of the Competition Cams VThunder series for the shovels and Evo's but they went by the wayside in the popularity games. Made good power in the right ranges and easy on the liters and valve train, nice and quite too.
Step back and see this for a minute from my 30 years of riding… I’VE NEVER ROAD WITH THAT CROWD. My whole life I’ve ridden with guys who like and use power. Now I’m actually the old dog at 54. Most of my buddies are in their 30’s. They come from crotch rockets…
I do not even understand this entire perception that these hot Rod bikes can’t have good street manners. Ok.. my 13:1 103 5” stroked 620 lift cam shovel did not have good street manners… but my 93” M grind with G carb and drag pipes ran perfect around town.. what’s all these radicle “not street worthy” statements so many make? My buddies previously bone stock 98 Dyna with 10k original miles was not anymore streetable or easy to control than my 93 shovel hardtail or my 127 Softail springer… I don’t comprehend these comments about power band and streetability.
Say I’m on my way 400 miles to another town on my 127… what is different? It stops at the light… the clutch is easy… it leaves the light smoothly (D carb by the way.. no accelerator pump) there is NO DIFFERENCE in street manner between it and that bone stock Dyna. When in Gehenna am I ever at 1700 rpm? Maybe off throttle coasting into a 35mph zone.. If I’m cruising at 2600 rpm at 80 mph and decide to pass a truck… I can just turn the throttle or… I can drop two gears lift the front end and pass that truck in a split second… Where in the world do I need power at 1700 rpm? The fat guy two up on a full dresser needs power at 1700 if he is incredibly lazy and can’t be bothered to down shift. They make mini vans with automatic transmissions for him.
When someone wants power… yes it can be because he and his fat wife just want to turn the throttle without down shifting and he’s moving 1200 lbs.. but the rest of us want power for racing our buddies. For going to the strip on tune night… Hot Rods. If any of you concentrate on 1700 to 4000 to make your highest averages… your gonna loose every single race. That is a meaningless power band to me. Besides if you build the highest average hp & torque from 3800 to 6000 it’s still gonna make a lot more at 1700 to 4000 than stock.
I read on here everyday these dyno threads of these delusional folk seeing dyno charts and complaining about dips they probably couldn’t even feel… they look at these charts and pound their chest and then one day go to the track for fun and run a 13 second pass with $20k worth of motor work and paper that says they make 130 hp..
When the guy in the other lanes’ expensive low rpm torque runs out.. It’s my horsepower that’s gonna leave him behind.
Last edited by Rains2much; Sep 30, 2025 at 02:10 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
See this is the thing and we're back to the 2000 rpm bit. Impacts cam choice and pipes both, as Joe Common guy buys either based on all the fan fair about HP made on dyno sheets ignoring the fact 98% of daily riding we live in the 1700 to 4000 rpm range, not out on the edge making the strip or dyno ponies as advertised.
Can't tell you the number of disgruntled individuals I've had this conversation with when doing a preflight chat with them coming in wanting a cam job or pipes and their choices for them. Learned quick give them what they want and 3 weeks later you hear through the rumor mill your being trash talked because they spent all that money and the bike is a pig around town daily riding. Even better when they do the crawl through a few shops get charged out the *** and occasionally lose even more ground.
I got where I wasn't getting a reasonable vib up front I'd pass on the job, and you are still a POS that couldn't handle it. This was the late evo and the big inch kit choppers heyday days. Personally I'm a big fan of the Competition Cams VThunder series for the shovels and Evo's but they went by the wayside in the popularity games. Made good power in the right ranges and easy on the liters and valve train, nice and quite too.
Can't tell you the number of disgruntled individuals I've had this conversation with when doing a preflight chat with them coming in wanting a cam job or pipes and their choices for them. Learned quick give them what they want and 3 weeks later you hear through the rumor mill your being trash talked because they spent all that money and the bike is a pig around town daily riding. Even better when they do the crawl through a few shops get charged out the *** and occasionally lose even more ground.
I got where I wasn't getting a reasonable vib up front I'd pass on the job, and you are still a POS that couldn't handle it. This was the late evo and the big inch kit choppers heyday days. Personally I'm a big fan of the Competition Cams VThunder series for the shovels and Evo's but they went by the wayside in the popularity games. Made good power in the right ranges and easy on the liters and valve train, nice and quite too.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
Your not wrong. But there is a distorted view of hot Rod… there is a distorted view on healthy rpm. If a dude weighing 300 lbs came to me and said “me and my ole lady like to crunch miles but we want a fast bike”…. I’d scratch my head and give him a cam that makes power 1700 to 4000… and he’d not only be happier but he’d also lose any race he runs.
Step back and see this for a minute from my 30 years of riding… I’VE NEVER ROAD WITH THAT CROWD. My whole life I’ve ridden with guys who like and use power. Now I’m actually the old dog at 54. Most of my buddies are in their 30’s. They come from crotch rockets…
I do not even understand this entire perception that these hot Rod bikes can’t have good street manners. Ok.. my 13:1 103 5” stroked 620 lift cam shovel did not have good street manners… but my 93” M grind with G carb and drag pipes ran perfect around town.. what’s all these radicle “not street worthy” statements so many make? My buddies previously bone stock 98 Dyna with 10k original miles was not anymore streetable or easy to control than my 93 shovel hardtail or my 127 Softail springer… I don’t comprehend these comments about power band and streetability.
Say I’m on my way 400 miles to another town on my 127… what is different? It stops at the light… the clutch is easy… it leaves the light smoothly (D carb by the way.. no accelerator pump) there is NO DIFFERENCE in street manner between it and that bone stock Dyna. When in Gehenna am I ever at 1700 rpm? Maybe off throttle coasting into a 35mph zone.. If I’m cruising at 2600 rpm at 80 mph and decide to pass a truck… I can just turn the throttle or… I can drop two gears lift the front end and pass that truck in a split second… Where in the world do I need power at 1700 rpm? The fat guy two up on a full dresser needs power at 1700 if he is incredibly lazy and can’t be bothered to down shift. They make mini vans with automatic transmissions for him.
When someone wants power… yes it can be because he and his fat wife just want to turn the throttle without down shifting and he’s moving 1200 lbs.. but the rest of us want power for racing our buddies. For going to the strip on tune night… Hot Rods. If any of you concentrate on 1700 to 4000 to make your highest averages… your gonna loose every single race. That is a meaningless power band to me. Besides if you build the highest average hp & torque from 3800 to 6000 it’s still gonna make a lot more at 1700 to 4000 than stock.
I read on here everyday these dyno threads of these delusional folk seeing dyno charts and complaining about dips they probably couldn’t even feel… they look at these charts and pound their chest and then one day go to the track for fun and run a 13 second pass with $20k worth of motor work and paper that says they make 130 hp..
When the guy in the other lanes’ expensive low rpm torque runs out.. It’s my horsepower that’s gonna leave him behind.
Step back and see this for a minute from my 30 years of riding… I’VE NEVER ROAD WITH THAT CROWD. My whole life I’ve ridden with guys who like and use power. Now I’m actually the old dog at 54. Most of my buddies are in their 30’s. They come from crotch rockets…
I do not even understand this entire perception that these hot Rod bikes can’t have good street manners. Ok.. my 13:1 103 5” stroked 620 lift cam shovel did not have good street manners… but my 93” M grind with G carb and drag pipes ran perfect around town.. what’s all these radicle “not street worthy” statements so many make? My buddies previously bone stock 98 Dyna with 10k original miles was not anymore streetable or easy to control than my 93 shovel hardtail or my 127 Softail springer… I don’t comprehend these comments about power band and streetability.
Say I’m on my way 400 miles to another town on my 127… what is different? It stops at the light… the clutch is easy… it leaves the light smoothly (D carb by the way.. no accelerator pump) there is NO DIFFERENCE in street manner between it and that bone stock Dyna. When in Gehenna am I ever at 1700 rpm? Maybe off throttle coasting into a 35mph zone.. If I’m cruising at 2600 rpm at 80 mph and decide to pass a truck… I can just turn the throttle or… I can drop two gears lift the front end and pass that truck in a split second… Where in the world do I need power at 1700 rpm? The fat guy two up on a full dresser needs power at 1700 if he is incredibly lazy and can’t be bothered to down shift. They make mini vans with automatic transmissions for him.
When someone wants power… yes it can be because he and his fat wife just want to turn the throttle without down shifting and he’s moving 1200 lbs.. but the rest of us want power for racing our buddies. For going to the strip on tune night… Hot Rods. If any of you concentrate on 1700 to 4000 to make your highest averages… your gonna loose every single race. That is a meaningless power band to me. Besides if you build the highest average hp & torque from 3800 to 6000 it’s still gonna make a lot more at 1700 to 4000 than stock.
I read on here everyday these dyno threads of these delusional folk seeing dyno charts and complaining about dips they probably couldn’t even feel… they look at these charts and pound their chest and then one day go to the track for fun and run a 13 second pass with $20k worth of motor work and paper that says they make 130 hp..
When the guy in the other lanes’ expensive low rpm torque runs out.. It’s my horsepower that’s gonna leave him behind.
but did I go overboard with my 110 build? Yeah probably but I love going 135 to 140 miles an hour.. can't drag race for ****... but I still get 45-48 on the road..
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From: Florida
I installed a 3040 in a build once. 86” nice cam. I also tried the 4050. It was very similar to the redshift 580S in what it did.