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I mentioned that I wasn't sure that the voes switch should flash. It doesn't surprise me if it does.. The point stems from the fact that it's only a 2 cylinder motor. Half the time, there isn't a cylinder creating a vacuum.. I like t150evj's idea of turning the idle up to see if the flashing goes away. Also you could simply suck on the hose that goes to the petcock and VOEs, The line should hold a vacuum. If you have a leak, you got problems.
You don't need to mess with the switch 1. All it's going to do is lead you in the wrong direction.. It changes the function of Voes switch to something that is completely wrong for everything except when running nitrous oxide and at the point the Voes wire is disconnected and connected to the gas solenoid trigger. For one, notice that the function of the input is swapped. At high vacuum, the timing is advanced with voes grounded where with NOS mode, it is retarded. Also the timing isn't retarded 25 degrees but it retarded to 25 degrees.
I have set curve 2 with 5* of advance on the base timing and must say the motor loved it.. MPO, curve 1 is a little too much for a stock motor...
I have set curve 2 with 5* of advance on the base timing and must say the motor loved it.. MPO, curve 1 is a little too much for a stock motor...
Agree! I got some ping on curve #1, then ended up doing a custom curve which is pretty close to what you mention. Bike seems happy. Also Ultima curves are different from Dynatek curves but both user manuals looks damn near the same.
Hello, I must say I don't know how to set custom curves... but I'm going nuts with what's going on with the bike.
The Progress: Initially, the green VOES light was flashing constantly. I followed the advice here and raised the idle to around 1000 RPM, and the flashing became less frequent. I then checked the hoses coming from the VOES into the carb and the petcock through the T-fitting. They seemed to hold vacuum, but the fitting wasn't snug, so I re-seated them. The idle improved significantly, and the green VOES LED flashing has pretty much stopped.
The New Problem: But now, a horrible rattling sound has appeared out of nowhere. I've never heard this sound on my bike before. It seems to come from the front and top of the bikesomewhere near the top of the front cylinder and the lower part of the gas tank area.
Characteristics of the sound:
Pitch: It's not a high-pitched metal rattle, but a lower-pitched rattle that almost feels like a deep, intense vibration.
When it happens: It only appears at high RPMs in any gear, whether accelerating or decelerating.
Neutral Test: It also appears if I'm cruising in neutral and rev the engine high. However, I have a hard time reproducing it when the bike is parked and idling.
Performance: Meanwhile, the bike seems to pull fine and it's quite agile. I don't feel like it's struggling.
The noise is present with all of the Dynatek switches in the OFF position, but also with the 2nd switch ON (Curve 2). I didn't try any other curves.
My Questions: Could it be something mechanical, like the new timing introducing a new frequency or vibration? Or is this pinging? Or perhaps the Dynatek ignition itself is bad? I'm trying to figure out if this is internal or just a "ghost" vibration now that the engine is finally running at the correct RPM. I'm going nuts....
OK. Sounds like you have the ignition sorted out. Don't expect any difference between curve1 and 2. Cures 3 and 4 will cause a big difference, but neither will be desirable.
Your noise could be a number of things. Since you have not mentioned the type of bike, I suggest you start a new thread with the year and model of the bike. Hopefully it's something simple like a heat shield or engine mount, maybe a loose fuel tank bolt.
Plug the vacuum line going to the VOES and see if it disappears... if it does then do not use curve 1.. Try curve 2 or even curve 3... Sounds like detonation...
Plug the vacuum line going to the VOES and see if it disappears... if it does then do not use curve 1.. Try curve 2 or even curve 3... Sounds like detonation...
"When it happens: It only appears at high RPMs in any gear, whether accelerating or decelerating"
doesn't sound like detonation to me. I'm hoping a loose part of bad engine mount. Mine did that once, sounded like it dropped a valve. Was a tab broken off the front heat shield.
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