EVO All Evo Model Discussion

1989 Springer Softail Assembly

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Old Mar 12, 2026 | 12:14 PM
  #51  
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What I thought would take one day took two, but that's how things always go with me. Cleaning and painting took up day one, today was fiddly, because I made it better than the hack job before me.

These turn signals bolt from the inside of the rails, so all this had to go on first. Unfortunately it will come around to bite me in the butt later. Notice the white connector, so it's possible to disassemble without cutting the wires like you had to with the original kit. Thanks, Bill for hooking me up with replacements @Architect



I was going to ask my cousin next door to hold the fender but I had an inspiration for a second set of hands that won't get tired or bored.



Here it is, all done except the tail light. I had to order a new assembly because it was all corroded and the bulb wouldn't come out. He had installed a blue dot, too, which I don't want.



The problem I have is I can only reach the upper sissy bar screws, the bottom ones are next to the fender. I can't remove the plates because they are bolted in with the turn signals. I'd have to do this job all over to get the fender out of the way, which would make the sissy bar non-removable for all intents and purposes. Someone added screw holes from the front to back, but they don't do anything to stop the rocking. I'm just going to have to live with it, its not going anywhere.



Next will be the forks. Hopefully the neck bearing kit will come in tomorrow.
 

Last edited by Joe12RK; Mar 12, 2026 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2026 | 01:34 PM
  #52  
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The cheap amazon tool I got for the neck bearing races did the job, but not without some help. First the flange that hooks the race was too thick, so I had to grind part of it away. Then, the cheap chinese threads didn't hold it apart well enough, it popped out with the first hit. I happened to have a golf cart wrist pin from the last project to use as a wedge, and a socket to keep it in place.



The bottom race practically fell out when I put the tool on it.



Edit to Add:

Well that was easy! One of the few times the Service Manual doesn't start with 'Using HD Special Tool...' Just use the slots provided to pry off the dust shield and bearing with two screwdrivers.


 

Last edited by Joe12RK; Mar 12, 2026 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2026 | 06:42 AM
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I used the same tool on my Duo Glide project, same grinding. Cheap tool that works surprisingly well once modified. Carry on.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2026 | 07:22 PM
  #54  
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Some of you may be wondering why I'm not working on the transmission. The reason is the shop I brought it to is having problems. I have a friend with a shop in Bradenton, but I decided to give this guy a shot, because he's only 5-10 minutes away. I stopped by today because he told me Monday it would be ready today. But the owner had left early, and one of the mechanics had to call him. He was told none of the parts I ordered two weeks ago have come in, including the new bearing he ordered last week. He blames Fedex, saying they misrouted this weeks order, but that's the same excuse he gave me last week. He's going to call me Monday, and unless a miracle happens, I'm going to pick up my transmission and get my money refunded. Then I'll go to my friend's shop, who wasn't surprised today when I told him what happened.

But I did make a little progress. I needed my friend to drill a hole with his drill press so I could mount the round Live to Ride air filter trim on my S&S teardrop cover. The trim has a 5/16 center screw to mount on factory air filters. I bought a slightly longer screw and with the trim taped to the S&S cover, he drilled a tap hole. This hole wound up not being in the center of the depression, and went through the side of the pointy part inside.



No big deal, it's easier to tap a thru hole than a blind one, and the loctite will seal it. I also needed to replace two of the S&S oval head screws with flathead so the trim fits flat. The cover is pretty scratched up, so it needed this trim piece.



It came out looking really good I think. It's not something you'll see on any other bike either, unless you guys copy me


 

Last edited by Joe12RK; Mar 13, 2026 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2026 | 09:29 PM
  #55  
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Looking good! Nice to see you bringing her back from the brink of death. Many would have walked away from that project, given your initial findings.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 08:56 AM
  #56  
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Maybe not a big deal.. probably should just not mention it… but I’m me, who could expect anything different.. that smooth blended shape that leads to a point is a VERY WELL engineered addition to the performance of the Super series carbs. It helps create a good velocity and air turbulence that goes into the throat for a better air fuel mix. Maybe It’s no big deal for putting around town. I’m always at the track in my mind and am generally not willing to sacrifice performance in any way. (Other than my failed attempts to make long fishtails work lol)

I know in my experimentation days with many many carbs and mods that there is always synergy of parts and there is no always best part in all circumstances. But with my 93” Shovel the comparisons for E vs E with Thunderjet vs G.. I tried velocity stacks and mathematically tuned lengths to achieve greatest performance. For my 93” the G was better than the E but with a small lose in bottom end grunt. The velocity stack vs the teardrop cover revealed the teardrop added back in some down low throttle response. So the bike was faster with the G and teardrop than E with tear or velocity stack.

Your small interruption of a nut/bolt in the pathway probably does interrupt that flow. Does it matter? That’s up to you.
 

Last edited by Rains2much; Mar 14, 2026 at 09:10 AM.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:36 AM
  #57  
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I appreciate your comment, @Rains2much and I agree the S&S engineers did a great job engineering smooth airflow into the carb. My modification probably will make a tiny difference, but as you said, nothing that I would notice running around town. FWIW, the screw doesn't stick out past the venturi shape, but as an engineer I know a hole could cause a little turbulence too.



 
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 05:03 PM
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I couldn't wait any more! I bought a set of neck bearings from my friend this morning and put the front end on. I also put on the L2R mirrors. That front end is just so sexy!



The front wheel is a later model that I had, but the special springer spacer is too wide, so there's no room for the speedometer drive. I might be able to cut it down and then drill a hole for the speedo drive tang. The wheels that were on the bike are pretty corroded, so my friend is pulling the tires off and I'll see what I'm doing when I get them back. I may disassemble everything and lace the late rims to the original hubs and get stainless spokes. More to come on that situation.



Tomorrow or maybe later I'll mount the front brake caliper and its special bracket.

Edit: I couldn't resist! But it needs something chrome in the center.


 

Last edited by Joe12RK; Mar 14, 2026 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 07:38 AM
  #59  
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Looking good! I agree - chrome caliper would be the way to go…
 
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 08:01 PM
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I brought my transmission case to my friend Will in Bradenton today and he replaced the MDG bearing and seals already. I'll pick it up tomorrow. He also had all the parts I had previously ordered but not received in his stock. Yesterday he popped the tires off the wheels, so I can address the rims and spokes. I learned my lesson, stick with who you know, even if he's further away.

@Tailbreaker This is why I am building this bike, it was a dream the year my daughter was born.


 
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