1984 softail performance issue
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Richmond BC.
RE: 1984 softail performance issue
You might have a problem with the 2" open drag pipes later as it will give you a flat spot. Once you get the fire breathing dragon stuff sorted out and it dialed in so it runs halfway decent you might find you will have to mess with the air bleed jet as the air bleed will determine when the main jet comes on, the larger the air bleed the higher the RPM the main will come in at, you might not have a problem with it but most people running drag pipes and an S&S with a larger overlap in the cam will have a problem especially with the 2" on a smaller motor. The factory air bleed is a .040 these jets can be hard to get and are actually the same as a main jet but smaller. If your S&S is older than a 2003 then it won't have the air bleed, just a .040 hole drilled in the body. As said previously stated It's best to shut off the accelerator pump during tuning but before you do any tuning make sure to download the instruction manual from the S&S website as it's excellent.
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Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: 32725
RE: 1984 softail performance issue
ok sorry its been a while ...heres where im at...there was a crack in the accel pump squirter tube ...took care of that and now there is nolonger an issue with the fire breathing....but b4 the engine work she ran great no the last issue is that at wot the bike runs like a raped ape but bottom end feels like its got bad timing or something ..Im getting a set odf jets when i fly uup to ny in 2 weeks ,(best freind and shop owner is hooking me up)when i start the rejet and get this more dialed in ill let you all know what has happened...but its just got no throttle response and feels like theres no power till top end ...now i know i lost a lil with the drags but it like theres no power ...im figuring that the main jet is a size to big being that florida air and ny air are really different
thanx to all .and if anyone is in central florida ,Im looking for some people to go do some riding with and show me around a little ..
Big Craig
thanx to all .and if anyone is in central florida ,Im looking for some people to go do some riding with and show me around a little ..
Big Craig
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
RE: 1984 softail performance issue
Sounds like a dyna 2000 Is there an ignition module somewhere like under the seat? Does this bike have 2 coils(for single fire)? OR is this a dyna 2000i with everything inside the ign cone? What I'm getting at is what the dyna is set at as far as mode switches and proper timing
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 17
From:
RE: 1984 softail performance issue
It's the drag pipes. Even 1.75" drags would leave a dead spot in the bottom end; 2"ers are even worse. They make it very difficult to get the carb dialed in. If you put on, say, a set of Cycle Shack muffler pipes(1.75 header and steel baffles), I'll bet you wouldn't have a problem. 2" headers work best when you get beyond 100 cubes. If you're sold on the drags, then try some baffles or the old lollipop trick.
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Richmond BC.
RE: 1984 softail performance issue
What you can do with the drag pipes and this helps a lot. Right near the end of the pipes you drill 2 small holes 1/8" or 9/64" one in the top and one in the bottom of the pipe so they line up then put a rod through the hole in each pipe even a coat hanger wire will work but most of the time I use an 8-32 machine screw. The reason drag pipes are a problem is with reversion, a 2-1 pipe or a pipe with a cross over tube will not have as great of a problem. One cylinder helps scavenge the exhaust from the other. With drag pipes what happens is during the over lap phase of the cam at lower RPM some of the exhaust gas goes back into the combustion chamber diluting the fuel mixture and because there is not enough oxygen it creates a too rich condition. The larger the pipe, the smaller the motor the more overlap in the cam the worse it will be. You could try the exhaust cones to correct it if your sold on keeping the drag pipes. The other thing I would do is get an air fuel guage from RB racing you have to weld in a bung in one of your exhaust pipes near the head but any muffler shop can do that for you. I found this guage to be magic with tuning the carb it will end the problem with sitting on the side of the road pulling the plugs and trying to get a reading on them (almost impossible with old tired eyes and electronic ignition).
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