'89 Evo - speed sensor?
Well, without looking at your particular bike, it would be difficult to give you a step-by-step on a front wheel speed sensor. But, on MY bike, this is how it's done:
Put a lifting device of some type under the front part of the frame (ez lift, hydraulic, jack, milk crate and some strong friends, whatever, I've used all these) and get the weight off the front wheel. If I have an adjustable lift available, I usually just lift the bike/front to a point where the wheel is just touching the ground, that is, the forks are extended and all the weight is off the wheel. Loosen the big axle nut. Loosen the nuts at the bottom of the fork. Remove the axle nut/washers. Take a long 1/2" drive extension and push the axle out. On my right side drive, I leave it in the hole and swap out the sender. On a left side drive, you have to take the exension out, swap the sender. The sender has a tab that fits in a hole on the wheel. These tabs frequently break, but when they do (usually from a snapped cable), you can replace the cable and take a punch and beat what's left of them back into the hole and get another 5K miles out of them. Anyway, put the new sender on, put the extension back in the hole if you took it out (to keep everything lined up), push the axle through, pushing out the extension, tighten up the nuts at the bottom of the fork tube, put the axle nut/washers back on, tighten to spec if you are not at the campground or dealer parking lot, otherwise, tighten to what feels about right.
Really, the sender and speedo cable are the only recurrant problems I've had with my bike in 22 years and 75K miles. I can't really complain. It's more of an annoyance than anything else, and they fixed it the next year model.
Put a lifting device of some type under the front part of the frame (ez lift, hydraulic, jack, milk crate and some strong friends, whatever, I've used all these) and get the weight off the front wheel. If I have an adjustable lift available, I usually just lift the bike/front to a point where the wheel is just touching the ground, that is, the forks are extended and all the weight is off the wheel. Loosen the big axle nut. Loosen the nuts at the bottom of the fork. Remove the axle nut/washers. Take a long 1/2" drive extension and push the axle out. On my right side drive, I leave it in the hole and swap out the sender. On a left side drive, you have to take the exension out, swap the sender. The sender has a tab that fits in a hole on the wheel. These tabs frequently break, but when they do (usually from a snapped cable), you can replace the cable and take a punch and beat what's left of them back into the hole and get another 5K miles out of them. Anyway, put the new sender on, put the extension back in the hole if you took it out (to keep everything lined up), push the axle through, pushing out the extension, tighten up the nuts at the bottom of the fork tube, put the axle nut/washers back on, tighten to spec if you are not at the campground or dealer parking lot, otherwise, tighten to what feels about right.
Really, the sender and speedo cable are the only recurrant problems I've had with my bike in 22 years and 75K miles. I can't really complain. It's more of an annoyance than anything else, and they fixed it the next year model.
I am going through the same thing. I put a custom wide glide with a 21" front wheel off of a 2007 duece on a 1986 fxrc. I don't really want to try and drive the speedo off of the front wheel. I ordered the rear wheel sensor,calibration unit and 2-5/8" electronic speedometer from J&P. From what i've been told you have to calibrate a new electronic speedometer. I received the calibration unit and speed sensor. The speedo should be here on tuesday. I just have to figure out how to wire all of this together.
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El Chiguete
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Apr 21, 2013 08:44 AM








