Replacing Clutch - List of Parts Required
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 837
Likes: 1
From: NORVA / Pittsboro, IN
Just a thought. When you get back into the trap door, or if you have, check the swage (swedge) to see if your cable is pulling through. (That would lengthen the cable by default.) I have never seen this on a harley, but till I saw the Clutch pack up I had never seen it either.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/members/17419-flgeez-albums-2196-evo-clutch-spring-plate-failure.html
Clutch not releasing; different problem, but a problem that you don't expect.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/members/17419-flgeez-albums-2196-evo-clutch-spring-plate-failure.html
Clutch not releasing; different problem, but a problem that you don't expect.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, VA
I have had similar symptoms when one of the ***** in the ball and ramp actuator broke which caused the my throw out bearing to fail. When I got in there it was a chocolate mess, but fairly cheap and easy to fix.
If you have your clutch discs and pads out, you should be able to mic them and see if they are in spec.
If you have your clutch discs and pads out, you should be able to mic them and see if they are in spec.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 8
From: Montgomery, AL
the cable i replaced was a black version. When i replaced it i was able to adjust it. I figured it was popping the clutch too much at lights. There are crap cables on the market. I would check as above and make sure it is seated properly everywhere. Does it have an easy clutch installed in it?
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
I just replaced the clutch in my 93 FXLR with 18K miles. Due to my engine upgrades and the installation of a Baker DD6 transmission I thought it to be a good idea. I also wanted to eliminate the stock HD riveted steel plate that can become troublesome and destroy a clutch basket if the rivets break.
I installed and Energy One extra plate clutch kit part #BTX-11 for under $100.00. The extra plates eliminate the stock riveted plate and includes a 15% stronger diapragm spring. I also replaced the pressure plate and snap rings for piece of mind about $40.00 from Zanotti's. The rest of the assembly was in excellent condition and was cleaned and reused.
Per Energy One's instructions, I am now using B&M Trick Shift automatic transmission fluid in the primary. The cost at our local Autozone is $4.99 a quart and this stuff really works. I can easily put plenty of air between the front wheel and the ground if I choose to do so in first second and third. The key trick to setting these clutches up is the adjustment procedure. The engagement point was way late on the lever if the HD manual method is used.
I called Kent at E-One who was very helpful. He explained that I needed to back off the lower adjustment at the clutch between 1/8 and 1/4 of a turn instead of 1/2. Mine is closer to 1/8 and my cable adjustor was way too tight. After loosening the adjustor and adjusting in steps, the lever engages about 1/4 out from the grip and is fully locked up halfway out. I'm still playing with the freeplay a bit as it seems like there is too much.
After nine Dyno pulls, the adjustment never changed. Bottom line is you can replace your clutch and install some new parts if needed for under $150.00. My Cometic primary gasket was reusable, so I did not have to replace that. Good luck with your decision, just passing my experience along for your consideration.
I installed and Energy One extra plate clutch kit part #BTX-11 for under $100.00. The extra plates eliminate the stock riveted plate and includes a 15% stronger diapragm spring. I also replaced the pressure plate and snap rings for piece of mind about $40.00 from Zanotti's. The rest of the assembly was in excellent condition and was cleaned and reused.
Per Energy One's instructions, I am now using B&M Trick Shift automatic transmission fluid in the primary. The cost at our local Autozone is $4.99 a quart and this stuff really works. I can easily put plenty of air between the front wheel and the ground if I choose to do so in first second and third. The key trick to setting these clutches up is the adjustment procedure. The engagement point was way late on the lever if the HD manual method is used.
I called Kent at E-One who was very helpful. He explained that I needed to back off the lower adjustment at the clutch between 1/8 and 1/4 of a turn instead of 1/2. Mine is closer to 1/8 and my cable adjustor was way too tight. After loosening the adjustor and adjusting in steps, the lever engages about 1/4 out from the grip and is fully locked up halfway out. I'm still playing with the freeplay a bit as it seems like there is too much.
After nine Dyno pulls, the adjustment never changed. Bottom line is you can replace your clutch and install some new parts if needed for under $150.00. My Cometic primary gasket was reusable, so I did not have to replace that. Good luck with your decision, just passing my experience along for your consideration.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 8
From: Montgomery, AL
I'll second that clutch r&r i found when i pulled my clutch apart all of the steels were rusted. I'm sure this didn't help much either. I have the se pressure plate so my clutch has been hard to pull. I swapped the friction plates over to a set of barnett kevlars and found a set of steels from a friend. My clutch has never worked as good as it did after replacement. I figured when i bought it in 98 it only had 6500 miles and was sitting in the back of a factory not being used and they rusted then.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From:
the cable i replaced was a black version. When i replaced it i was able to adjust it. I figured it was popping the clutch too much at lights. There are crap cables on the market. I would check as above and make sure it is seated properly everywhere. Does it have an easy clutch installed in it?
- thanks.
- did the cable change allow you more adjustment ?
.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From:
- sorry , but just to post an update on this :
.
- I used a couple of washers (using pliers to bend them open) and then inserting them above the cable-adjuster to act as a spacer (and then bending the washers closed). Put a washer near the head of the cable sleeve at the hand-controls too.
- am pretty sure that its a combination of the cable being stretched and also clutch wear (but since the clutch isn't slipping , am not planning to dig into the clutch just yet).
- problem solved (for now).
cheers.
.
.
- I used a couple of washers (using pliers to bend them open) and then inserting them above the cable-adjuster to act as a spacer (and then bending the washers closed). Put a washer near the head of the cable sleeve at the hand-controls too.
- am pretty sure that its a combination of the cable being stretched and also clutch wear (but since the clutch isn't slipping , am not planning to dig into the clutch just yet).
- problem solved (for now).
cheers.
.
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Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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Jul 7, 2009 03:07 PM
