Replacing inner clutch hub...
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Florida's gorgeous East coast
Replacing inner clutch hub...
My 85 Evo has a broken inner clutch hub. 2 of the posts have separated from the body of the hub. I've found a new "heavy duty" replacement. Any tips on doing the swap...??? Looks like it takes an arbor press...?? Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
I've used a big flywheel puller ( three prong for briggs motors ) to take the hub off the tapered trans main shaft Grabbed the starter ring gear and it popped off There were problems with that style hub Either the posts broke or the alum around the tapored keyway cracked I always used CCI's P/N 17425 as a replacement Yes an arbor press will work for dismantlement
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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Likes: 9,913
From: Florida's gorgeous East coast
Thanks for the replys...
Getting the entire clutch basket off the tranny mainshaft wasn't a problem. My question is about separating the inner clutch hub from the outer clutch basket...pulling it out of the clutch hub bearing without tearing anything else up.
This will be the third inner clutch hub I've put on this bike. I don't know what other folks have gotten for service life on these. Both the factory original, and the aftermarket "improved" replacement I used last time held up about the same ...each lasted a bit over 100,000mi, and 12 yrs. The bike has 214,000 mi. on it now. I bought it new, and have records....
Getting the entire clutch basket off the tranny mainshaft wasn't a problem. My question is about separating the inner clutch hub from the outer clutch basket...pulling it out of the clutch hub bearing without tearing anything else up.
This will be the third inner clutch hub I've put on this bike. I don't know what other folks have gotten for service life on these. Both the factory original, and the aftermarket "improved" replacement I used last time held up about the same ...each lasted a bit over 100,000mi, and 12 yrs. The bike has 214,000 mi. on it now. I bought it new, and have records....
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
First, remove the lock ring from the backside that holds the inner (keyed) hub. Press the inner hub out of the bearing FIRST. Then remove the outer lock ring and press the bearing out of the clutch basket. Reassembly is the reverse and youy NEVER re-use that bearing.
I'm assuming you've personally be into this before (?) Where is it cracking - on the tapered hub?
Torque for that left-hand nut is 70-80 ft/lb and remember most torque wrenches are accurate to whatever degree in "right-hand" mode. Most are horribly inaccurate in "left-hand" mode. I will say this, the cheap, beam-type you see at the fast-food type parts stores are more accurate in left-hand than ANY click-type torque wrench on the market, regardless of price.
Sorry - rambling on...
I'm assuming you already know about making sure the key is perfectly seated on the shaft, and that you are using the correct key from HD... I'd be tempted to use a lower torque, say 40 ft/lb or so. The nut is supposed to be fixed with 262 Loctite anyway... You might clean the shaft with fine sandpaper and put some marking compound on it. Using the new hub, gently install it with very light torque (without the key in place) then remove it and see if you can determine the contact surface where the hub meets the shaft. you know, high-low spots. If all that looks decent, throw it back together for another 100,000
If there's some margin of concern beyond a total misfit, put 4-5 drops of Loctite Retaining Compound on the shaft before assembly. It will fill the gaps and prevent the hub from wallowing around on the shaft. And NO, that is NOT a shade tree "fix" we all did it on 250 Cummins harmonic balancers with tapered crankshafts.
Anyway, best of luck and hopefully this has been of some help.
I'm assuming you've personally be into this before (?) Where is it cracking - on the tapered hub?
Torque for that left-hand nut is 70-80 ft/lb and remember most torque wrenches are accurate to whatever degree in "right-hand" mode. Most are horribly inaccurate in "left-hand" mode. I will say this, the cheap, beam-type you see at the fast-food type parts stores are more accurate in left-hand than ANY click-type torque wrench on the market, regardless of price.
Sorry - rambling on...
I'm assuming you already know about making sure the key is perfectly seated on the shaft, and that you are using the correct key from HD... I'd be tempted to use a lower torque, say 40 ft/lb or so. The nut is supposed to be fixed with 262 Loctite anyway... You might clean the shaft with fine sandpaper and put some marking compound on it. Using the new hub, gently install it with very light torque (without the key in place) then remove it and see if you can determine the contact surface where the hub meets the shaft. you know, high-low spots. If all that looks decent, throw it back together for another 100,000
If there's some margin of concern beyond a total misfit, put 4-5 drops of Loctite Retaining Compound on the shaft before assembly. It will fill the gaps and prevent the hub from wallowing around on the shaft. And NO, that is NOT a shade tree "fix" we all did it on 250 Cummins harmonic balancers with tapered crankshafts.
Anyway, best of luck and hopefully this has been of some help.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Florida's gorgeous East coast
t150vej...
Thanks for the excellent detailed reply. Before reading your reply, I had the new inner hub in place, and tried it on the tapered mainshaft without the key. I tightened the clutch hub nut,the inner hub tightens nicely against the tapered shaft. There's no "slop" or freeplay. Once tightened down however...the outer Clutch Shell has some "wiggle". This was done with the original bearing in there ( as I said...done prior to reading your admonition to never re-use that bearing).
Is that "wiggle" I'm feeling indicating that the hub bearing is going bad, or is there always a little freeplay in the system..?? I appreciate the advice, and don't mind replacing the bearing too. Seems like a good idea....I just want to learn as much as I can along the way.
Thanks Again.
Thanks for the excellent detailed reply. Before reading your reply, I had the new inner hub in place, and tried it on the tapered mainshaft without the key. I tightened the clutch hub nut,the inner hub tightens nicely against the tapered shaft. There's no "slop" or freeplay. Once tightened down however...the outer Clutch Shell has some "wiggle". This was done with the original bearing in there ( as I said...done prior to reading your admonition to never re-use that bearing).
Is that "wiggle" I'm feeling indicating that the hub bearing is going bad, or is there always a little freeplay in the system..?? I appreciate the advice, and don't mind replacing the bearing too. Seems like a good idea....I just want to learn as much as I can along the way.
Thanks Again.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
That bearing is the idler that carries the load of the primary chain on the outer clutch basket against the inner hub and only turns when the clutch is released so... Yes a bit of wiggle is totally normal and generally a bad one will be quite noisy and show signs of overheating by discoloring the rubber/plastic seal on the sides. (It's a sealed bearing) "The Book" says NEVER re-use it and that's good advice for any sealed bearing that has to be pressed out and especially considering the mileage on yours. Part number for the bearing is: 37906-84
Don't know the price - I've never bought one but will next time I go into that side on mine.
Don't know the price - I've never bought one but will next time I go into that side on mine.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Florida's gorgeous East coast
I started getting a primary "whine" a while back, and determined it to be the factory original clutch hub bearing. Replaced it at that time. The one in the hub now that I'm concerned about, has 60,000mi. on it according to my records. Problem I have is I don't work on any other bikes, and when I get this far into my bike, I don't have any idea what is "normal". I'd like to get her back together today, and see if it "whines". At this time, just spinnig it as fast as I can with no weight or load...it's quiet.
Thanks again for the good info.
Thanks again for the good info.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
That's the only specs given in the manual that bearing - "smooth and quiet" so I'm guessing your good there.
I quieted mine some time back by replacing the inner primary bearing and race while fixing a leak at that seal. They weren't "bad" just worn to the point of being a little whiney. 160.00 for special tools and 50.00 for parts, it's a lot more quiet but still have the 4th gear whine.
Transmission noise was a problem for HD in the early production of the 5 speed, to the point they redesigned the case (thicker) to muffle it and meet Federal noise standards... so I read somewhere some time back.
I quieted mine some time back by replacing the inner primary bearing and race while fixing a leak at that seal. They weren't "bad" just worn to the point of being a little whiney. 160.00 for special tools and 50.00 for parts, it's a lot more quiet but still have the 4th gear whine.
Transmission noise was a problem for HD in the early production of the 5 speed, to the point they redesigned the case (thicker) to muffle it and meet Federal noise standards... so I read somewhere some time back.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,199
Likes: 3,087
From: NW AR
Yeah, t150vej, my bike has one of the early cases that makes a 4th gear whine. I think 1987 was when they redesigned the case. An 87 has a different clutch engagement/cable attachment setup as well.