EVO All Evo Model Discussion

evo parts help

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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #1  
97wideglidenh's Avatar
97wideglidenh
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Red face evo parts help

o.k. need some help from those who have "been there,done that". i am a very good mechanic by trade(cars,diesels,trucks,many chevy v8s,jeep engine swap to tbi chevy,liftkits.bla,bla) Its my first harley engine and cant screw it up. so,, 1997 wideglide.drilled out mufflers,cv carb w/ jet kit(think its stage 1?) hypercharger,roller rockers,adj,push rods,screamn eagle coil and oil cooler. i have the heads and jugs off, id like to get "the oil fix" and use james base gaskets.so far so good.are all head gaskets the same thickness? id like good quality ones but thinner to bump compression, even a little bit.i can lap the valves myself, and im going for a ev-27 cam, ive read here i might have to change the gear to my old one? does it only go on 1 way? if not it can be off timing a lot!! next is would anyone buy off e-bay i found the ev-27 for $125. and the gaskets for $30(engine set) to $100 for a upper end set. makes me wonder....oh, i have done all the work to the bike myself too. thanks for any input. i have searched here and got lots of info. just need alittle more. hopeing the heavy hitters like MP, and T150VEJ and others can help thanks . dave
 
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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Stock gasket is .045", a .030" James or Cometic is pretty popular.

Got my EV-27 from American Classic Motors for $108 a few years back. And yes, if you don't see significant wear on your stock cam's gear, use it on the new cam. And yes, it has to be installed on the cam correctly...it is not foolproof, nor rocket science. You just need to mark it well and have access to an arbor press or a shop that can do it for you.

You should replace the cam bearing while you're at it. Zanotti P/N 25403 is the Torrington bearing to replace the stock bearing. You'll need a bearing puller. If you don't have one, AutoZone "borrows" out tools for a deposit.

You can get a top-end James gasket kit from Zanotti's for $60.

I think people recommend new lifters too. The stock HD "B" version lifter is good.

If you're looking for some more go, consider having the heads shaved like .060". Makes a real nice improvement. Of course the $$ adds up, but hey, while you're in there!

Oh, if you shave the heads, and maybe even if you go with just the thinner head gasket, you'll need different length pushrods. The EZ install ones that don't require rocker cover removal are a real timesaver down the road.

I did the above to my '98 WG along with a good valve job and mild port...man what a difference!!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 12:55 AM
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In addition: I'd check the valve guides & make sure they are still 'in spec'.
And check yer Valve stem protrusion for not more than max spec height.
Need new Valve Seals, for sure.

The Cometic .030 head gaskets work fine..

If your motor valve train was quiet (normal-like) I'd re-use the oem gear.
(As mentioned) & there is no key-way for alignment.

The EV-27 is a good cam, just don't go crazy on bumping the C/R tho..

Personally, I would not buy a used cam off ebay. But that's me..

my .02
 

Last edited by Buddy7394; Feb 9, 2009 at 01:04 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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Doing pretty much the same thing to my motor presently. If you go to (I believe) directparts.com I just got a ev27 (As advertized in thier ad in American Iron) for $119.00! Cam was here in less than a week. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 05:31 PM
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Thanks for the compliment 97wide....

I can't add much, but if you use James base gaskets, that's that oil leak fix for sure. They make a spigot add-on to extend the drain past the deck of the engine case. I've not used them, but I wonder if they'd be easy to break off when shoving the jug down to the case because they are a good bit longer than the dowels, and there's a lot of play where the studs go thru...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 04:39 AM
  #6  
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That cam works good new but i would buy a used one. comp. No need to jump comp . Add a basic s&s oil pump then buy there lifters to helpp with cooling ,oil flow, and have real oil pressure when hot. Filters out now do have more restrition than the ones we could buy a year ago. Change oil lines while down. There is a 100 dollar tool that will help to check cam timeing and setup to be sure thats right. and the cam gear on the old stock cam sometimes don't tranfer well and most now will check the clearence and if needed change the gear on the pinion, easier to get right. Don't force the cam in the support plate. Change the breather to the s&s read type ,no timeing to deal with ,just works and cheaper. You may also find the hypercharger is a loss of hp. Stock drill with k&n works better or find a used SE or big sucker kit for better flow. CV carbs are great but if it has had some kind of aftermarket kit installed you my find it is hard on gas milage and rich at throttle roll on. Stock with just jet and needle changes works best for the street (no dynajet kits). No drilling of the slid reall needed. Drilled out mufflers will probably end up changed,never helps and can sound tinny. Watch ebay for Khrome works,phyton, even cycle shacks slipons and stay with the cross over header s you have . Better bottomend . Do buy a ftermarket ignition like compufire , cheap and will give you some easy tune changes plus easier stating. No down side here. Check out your local indy shop then ordering parts i can buy most all cheaper local than shopping around and have help if needed without step'n on toe's.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:03 AM
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Can't add much to the already good advise,except that don't be afraid of Ebay.I have built 3 complete Road Kings using mostly Ebay as well as a couple of antique John Deere tractors,machine shop stuff, and the list goes on.Good Luck
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by dog155
Can't add much to the already good advise,except that don't be afraid of Ebay.I have built 3 complete Road Kings using mostly Ebay as well as a couple of antique John Deere tractors,machine shop stuff, and the list goes on.Good Luck
Had a couple people I know ripped off on complete bikes, but they were gullable and not up to speed on what to ask about. It's an excellent source for parts. Key is to be patient and have a good idea of what you're looking and what to look for. Also, don't hesitate to ask (informed and intelligent) questions. If the seller doesn't respond with the same caliber of answer, that's a red flag - just from my experience.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:39 PM
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wow,thanks for all the help. Lots of good info, All parts will be new.I do have the dealer repair book and a hd performance book. Im going to do this "slow and right"(cant ride in the snow in N.H now)Im going to start ordering parts and will update.sure ill ask more questions later as i go. thanks everyone, realy kool to get informed help and not flamed for asking. thanks again !!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by dog155
Can't add much to the already good advise,except that don't be afraid of Ebay.I have built 3 complete Road Kings using mostly Ebay as well as a couple of antique John Deere tractors,machine shop stuff, and the list goes on.Good Luck

Lots a good deals on ebay if you don't get in a hurry and shop around.
 
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