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I'd file down the high spots and test fit the hub on the splines. Did something mushroom the end of the splines or is the spline worn down? It looks like the end of the splines is mushroomed and that is why the hub did not slide off easily but you will know more when you file down the high spots and install the hub.
If something did mushroom the end of the splines, you need to find out what did that and correct that problem so it doesn't happen again.
Last edited by megawatt; Feb 27, 2009 at 03:56 PM.
Whoever put the "other" clutch hub on had the nut backward and possibly (probably) the wrong nut anyway. You did get a new or different nut didn't you?
File in and out (with the splines) rather than right to left. And wouldn't hurt to work the inner spline of the hub with the edge of a file if it's even slightly burred from trying to put it on that shaft.
Won't hurt a thing, but the hub should slide on with little more than a bump of your hands.
yes i got the new nut and got a new lock ring ..
I hope i didnt **** up this clutch bearing as i tried to
tap the clutch on with a block of wood and large hammer ..
Last fall i test rode the bike before putting it up for the winter ..
Here are a couple short clips of my clunker ..
Listen close to the one of the "engine noise" as thats why
i took this apart to change the clutch and complete primary.
I was told thats wht the noise was .. The engine sounded like
sombody dragging an aluminum ski pole down the street while setting the the tailgate of a pickup truck ..
yes i got the new nut and got a new lock ring ..
I hope i didnt **** up this clutch bearing as i tried to
tap the clutch on with a block of wood and large hammer ..
Naw, you didn't hurt that double-row bearing assuming the key word was correct (tap)
Hey, do you have a Dremel tool? The heavy drum sander in the kit would sure make things go a lot quicker.
I hit it pretty good with a 2.lbs long handel hammer but i was choked up
by the hammer head and used one hand. I didnt get back and wack it or anything.
Hey` will this 2 into 1 pipe fit my bike ? ebay Item number: 220366678
The exhaust i got on there now is rotted and flops all around and back and forth.
Its worn a big gogue in the top of the primary cover .. I was think in of going 2 into 1 to simplify if nothing else ..
ITs almost together .. just one more issue (see pic)
Im including a picture of what i have for clutch adjustment parts ..
After changing out the aftermarket clutch and installing the OEM i found the clutch adjuster bolt is too long .. The other systen has this small bullet behind the adjuster bolt.. the adjuster bolt for the other system was only as long as the threaded area of the one i now hav ..
It is a good idea to cut this bolt and use the bullet like it was or do i need to buy a shorter pushrod ? Whats next with this ? Im almost done ..
Don't know what I was thinking - obviously I wasn't...
Looked again at the pic... see if the bullet will go into the shaft until at least flush. If it will, the adjuster screw is all you'd need. It's a 7/16 sae (fine) thread and you could use a short regular bolt to make sure everything works good. If so, you could use it right on or would be easily replaced by just removing the clutch cover.
I really wouldn't cut that long adjuster bolt - they're a little pricey.
Yep` .. gonna search my garage for a bolt and make something up to work utilizing the bullet as it goes in the hole 3/4 of the way .. I just need to make sure that when the clutch is pulled that the bullet dont fall out of the hole ... that would suck ..
Originally Posted by t150vej
Don't know what I was thinking - obviously I wasn't...
Looked again at the pic... see if the bullet will go into the shaft until at least flush. If it will, the adjuster screw is all you'd need. It's a 7/16 sae (fine) thread and you could use a short regular bolt to make sure everything works good. If so, you could use it right on or would be easily replaced by just removing the clutch cover.
I really wouldn't cut that long adjuster bolt - they're a little pricey.
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