evo build up
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
My sentiments exactly, with my choice being a 113'' in a real light FXR frame. The Ultima engines seem to be a good bang for the buck. From what I've read they only need a little headwork from the right source to come alive.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
I've heard good things about John Sachs in Florida. PM Reddog and he can fill you as John did the heads on his new 113. Larry's Motorcycle and Machine did my SE heads and knows what he's doing with them. Larry has not had that much experience with the Ultima heads and refers folks to John. He may be a member here, not sure though.
Stage I
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
i have a 1995 wide glide that i want to do some mods to but im not sure what to do. the evo already has an s&s intake and carb(super e). i put drag pipes on it and plan to install torque cones in them. my next step would be a cam and some heads but dont know what combo will be the best. what does everyones else with evos have for work? any dyno numbers with the mods? realistically i would like to get between 90 and 100 horse. any suggestions?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 494
From: Richmond, VA
I'm glad this thread popped back up. I'm thinkin' about trying to hit 90 at the wheel with my Low Rider. Seems most guys can do it with a pretty basic setup. A couple shops quoted me under 3 grand for 90whp. Seems like alot of fun for the money since I would guess I'm only about 58 or so now. Any dyno sheets or shop recomendations?
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa, Canada
Leave it alone, it's like trying to get blood out of a stone. The more work and money you spend the less dependable it becomes. Just enjoy the ride and keep your money in your wallet for more important things like dancing ladies and beer.
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: AZ
Forget the "drop in as many cubes as possible" crowd, and build that 80.
Port the heads, bump the compression, and cam it up. Your wallet is the only limit.
For $500-ish, you should be able to do a little cleanup on the heads, enough to reach 85-90 horses with the right cam.
A full race type porting job is going to run $1500-ish, but will be capable of 110-120 horses to the rear tire if everything else is properly built.
To reach the higher horse levels, you're going to need a Thunderheader or other good 2-1 exhaust.
I would port the heads as much as you can afford to, bump the compression to 10:1, no more than 10.5:1, and throw in a decent cam, think woods, redshift, etc., as well as good valvetrain components, Dyna ignition, etc. While it's apart, split the cases and polish everything up.
Big bore, stroker, etc., is not necessary, but if you have the money, go for it. A bigger engine is going to cause more vibration if that is a concern.
100 horse at the rear tire is plenty for most (you're probably under 65 now), more than that and your going to start to wear and break stuff. You are going to need an extra plate clutch, drive chain, etc.
Big cubes are going to require an oil cooler, aftermarket clutch, HD starter, gel battery, etc.
IMO, 100-110 horses at the tire is a good amount for a daily ridable bike that is reliable when ridden hard.
My FXD is as follows:
10.5:1
Crane Valvesprings and EZ-outs
Jims lifters
Andrews EV-51
HSR 42
Dyna 2000i
Forcewinder
Supertrapp 2-1
Barnett extra plate clutch and spring
Ultima 6-speed (not yet installed, collecting dust)
When funds allow, I am going to port the heads and possibly add a big bore kit, I am a little uneasy doing this on stock cases. After that, I'd like to play with some nitrous. Up to this point, I have performed all work myself. I'll leave the porting to Sachs or Branch.
I'd guess I'm around 80 horse, and my bike runs really well. It's quick enough to handle the majority of vehicles I run across. I'd like to get up to 110-ish at the tire, and then add a 25 shot or so on top of that.
At the very least, do a cam if nothing else. A stock Evo may run forever, but I for one cannot ride anything that gutless and slow. A built Evo will still run forever, and will allow you to handle most stoplight battles with ease.
If you are thinking about big inches, do yourself a favor and ride a big inch bike first, if you haven't already. I enjoy being able to use my mirrors and ride cross country without going numb after 30 minutes, but to each their own. Not to mention riding more than 75 miles on a tank. There is no feeling like being WFO on a 113+, though.
If you're really looking to go fast, buy a rocket. I would love to have a Busa as a track toy, but I do not have the self control to ride one daily.
Port the heads, bump the compression, and cam it up. Your wallet is the only limit.
For $500-ish, you should be able to do a little cleanup on the heads, enough to reach 85-90 horses with the right cam.
A full race type porting job is going to run $1500-ish, but will be capable of 110-120 horses to the rear tire if everything else is properly built.
To reach the higher horse levels, you're going to need a Thunderheader or other good 2-1 exhaust.
I would port the heads as much as you can afford to, bump the compression to 10:1, no more than 10.5:1, and throw in a decent cam, think woods, redshift, etc., as well as good valvetrain components, Dyna ignition, etc. While it's apart, split the cases and polish everything up.
Big bore, stroker, etc., is not necessary, but if you have the money, go for it. A bigger engine is going to cause more vibration if that is a concern.
100 horse at the rear tire is plenty for most (you're probably under 65 now), more than that and your going to start to wear and break stuff. You are going to need an extra plate clutch, drive chain, etc.
Big cubes are going to require an oil cooler, aftermarket clutch, HD starter, gel battery, etc.
IMO, 100-110 horses at the tire is a good amount for a daily ridable bike that is reliable when ridden hard.
My FXD is as follows:
10.5:1
Crane Valvesprings and EZ-outs
Jims lifters
Andrews EV-51
HSR 42
Dyna 2000i
Forcewinder
Supertrapp 2-1
Barnett extra plate clutch and spring
Ultima 6-speed (not yet installed, collecting dust)
When funds allow, I am going to port the heads and possibly add a big bore kit, I am a little uneasy doing this on stock cases. After that, I'd like to play with some nitrous. Up to this point, I have performed all work myself. I'll leave the porting to Sachs or Branch.
I'd guess I'm around 80 horse, and my bike runs really well. It's quick enough to handle the majority of vehicles I run across. I'd like to get up to 110-ish at the tire, and then add a 25 shot or so on top of that.
At the very least, do a cam if nothing else. A stock Evo may run forever, but I for one cannot ride anything that gutless and slow. A built Evo will still run forever, and will allow you to handle most stoplight battles with ease.
If you are thinking about big inches, do yourself a favor and ride a big inch bike first, if you haven't already. I enjoy being able to use my mirrors and ride cross country without going numb after 30 minutes, but to each their own. Not to mention riding more than 75 miles on a tank. There is no feeling like being WFO on a 113+, though.
If you're really looking to go fast, buy a rocket. I would love to have a Busa as a track toy, but I do not have the self control to ride one daily.
