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[quote=ridemywg;5361142][when I'd disengage the clutch rather quickly it would cause bike to learch and make a really bad squeeling sound but after I rode it for a while it seemed fine, /quote]
I'm assuming you meant "when you let the clutch lever out" ???
Not sure about the squeal but did you hear it on the right or left of the bike?
The adjustment John gave you is absoutely correct and must be done in that order.
One thing I notice in the photo - (and I realize digital stuff sometimes will make things look weird best we can do) Looks like the lock-ring on the adjuster plate is clocked incorrectly. The opening between the ends of the lock-ring should be clocked 90 degrees from the ears on the adjuster plate. Not saying that'll help or that it's your problem, but I would tidy that up and never let whoever did it work on my stuff again... That is sloppy workmanship
It kills me when guys ask for advice on multiple forums. T150 is correct, but does not know the whole story. Looks like you have a 89-93 style clutch basket same as mine. If in fact that is the case, then the mainshaft has been replaced in the transmission as well. All this is not a bad thing, but if you have an extra plate clutch as you mentioned in the other forum the adjustment procedure will be different. Been there, done that, running that, so give it a try. BTW, I also use B&M Trick Shift ATF in my primary per Energy One's advice. You might want to try that or Type F ATF as well.
Last edited by Buddy WMC; Aug 3, 2009 at 06:53 PM.
It kills me when guys ask for advice on multiple forums. T150 is correct, but does not know the whole story. Looks like you have a 89-93 style clutch basket same as mine. If in fact that is the case, then the mainshaft has been replaced in the transmission as well. All this is not a bad thing, but if you have an extra plate clutch as you mentioned in the other forum the adjustment procedure will be different. Been there, done that, running that, so give it a try. BTW, I also use B&M Trick Shift ATF in my primary per Energy One's advice. You might want to try that or Type F ATF as well.
Thanks for advice, I don't recall saying anything about an extra clutch plate though
. And yes I do ask most times the same question on different same type forums because there's a wealth of advice and not all members beolong to one forum, such as yourself
Last edited by RidemyEVO; Aug 3, 2009 at 08:24 PM.
[when I'd disengage the clutch rather quickly it would cause bike to learch and make a really bad squeeling sound but after I rode it for a while it seemed fine, /quote]
I'm assuming you meant "when you let the clutch lever out" ???
Not sure about the squeal but did you hear it on the right or left of the bike?
The adjustment John gave you is absoutely correct and must be done in that order.
One thing I notice in the photo - (and I realize digital stuff sometimes will make things look weird best we can do) Looks like the lock-ring on the adjuster plate is clocked incorrectly. The opening between the ends of the lock-ring should be clocked 90 degrees from the ears on the adjuster plate. Not saying that'll help or that it's your problem, but I would tidy that up and never let whoever did it work on my stuff again... That is sloppy workmanship
Just came back in from pulling derby again and looked fine, must be optical illusion via the camera. I also set the clutch to 1/2 turn out and seems better as far as clutch goes although if I'm aggresive like I am on my 02 WG I run into problems where as if I go easy to start off in first gear its good.
If you adjusted the clutch according to the instructions given and still have problems, you probably need to rebuild/replace the clutch. While you are in there you probably should use an "extra" clutch plate/disc setup. The cost is about the same or less than a stock setup from HD and should handle any stage I or II mods you may make in the future. Hope this helps.
If you adjusted the clutch according to the instructions given and still have problems, you probably need to rebuild/replace the clutch. While you are in there you probably should use an "extra" clutch plate/disc setup. The cost is about the same or less than a stock setup from HD and should handle any stage I or II mods you may make in the future. Hope this helps.
Thanks, I think I'll try changing oil first then open up the clutch if it doesn't help.
Do not put in too much oil, it will make the clutch drag and this will make it hard to find neutral also. We use Castrol tranny fluid in the green bottle marked with a roman numeral VI, it works well if you just fill it until it just touches the bottom of the clutch basket like the manual shows you.
Changed all 3 holes today, got to the primary side and drained into a litre bottle and found out there was less than half a quart in primary about 400 ml. I also checked primary chain and found out it was as tight as tight could be , no slack at all and I adjusted it to 5/8 and put in a full litrre of Harley tranny oil and adjusted clutch again to 3/4 out. Clutch seems better although I still get a bit of a chirp in first gear if I'm overly agressive on the clutch. I'm hoping no damage was done riding the bike home the 500 miles.
You put tranny oil in the primary???? you should use primary fluid or ATF. Normally the primary will hold a little less than a quart, however there are a some that hold a quart. When the bike is level, the fluid should just touch the bottom of the clutch basket. The chirp you are describing is sometimes caused by the clutch plates get oil soaked or glazed. Hope this helps.
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