teardown\inspection advice needed
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
teardown\inspection advice needed
I'm going tobe pulling the topend off an 89 eg with 144000km on the motor, Rear cylinder is leaking. I know there's nothing special about removing top end but can I get some input for inspecting and what to look for with regards to the heads cyinders etc? If the connecting rods feel snug on the crank with up down and sideways pressure should I split the casings? There is alot of km on the motor I know and its quite possible other than normal maintenance that this motor has never been touched by the previous owners.
Seems previous owner tried to stop rear base gasket leak with epoxy.
Seems previous owner tried to stop rear base gasket leak with epoxy.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Obviously new seals and gaskets, check the valves, guides, piston clearance/cylinder wall condition, new rings, new cam bearing, replace the lifters as long as you are in there you may also want to change the cam. Because of the mileage this would be a good time to look at the oil pump too. Basically just check everything that you take off for critical dimensions etc. Hope this helps, please feel to E-mail any specific questions to me.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,422
Likes: 2,621
From: NC USA
Check the side play of the rods. The front should be snug (but free moving) between the webbings of the rear rod. Side play of the rear rod in relation to the flywheel should not exceed .030 (inches) and that's a generous maximum. .026 or less is good. Also bear in mind, the rods can wear into the thrust washers of the flywheels, making measurements with feeler gauges inaccurate. Use a very bright flashlight when looking at that area. So far as bearing wear at that area, you cannot feel any up-down play. If you could, it's already be knocking horribly. You'll be able to "wiggle" the rods at the wristpin end a good bit (left and right). That is normal, but to give you a specific measurement of what is, or is not acceptable by that travel, I won't do. Generally, if I can easily move both rods left to right by simply grasping the front wristpin end, I usually try to convince the owner to let me do bearings. End play of the flywheels in the case main bearing should not exceed .005 but I'd never let an Evo run that loose. The pinion bearing/race clearance must not exceed .001 and you cannot "feel" that. Measuring it is a chore... basically, if you can remove the lock ring from the pinion shaft and pull the bearing (rollers) part way out with a seal pick or what-have-you, or if you use a soft bar to pry it upward and can actually see ANY up and down movement of the shaft - it's worn completely out!
You should replace the wristpin bushings for sure. Of course valve seals with a correct, 3 angle seat grind. If the seats are cut so the valve contact area is too wide, your top-end will be noisy. It'll likely need at least the exhaust valve guides replaced
I think John covered everything else very well
so if my math is close, 90,000 miles usually isn't a problem on an Evo bottom end, so check everything to your satisfaction of specs and a good top-end refresh will probably do you well.
You should replace the wristpin bushings for sure. Of course valve seals with a correct, 3 angle seat grind. If the seats are cut so the valve contact area is too wide, your top-end will be noisy. It'll likely need at least the exhaust valve guides replaced
I think John covered everything else very well
so if my math is close, 90,000 miles usually isn't a problem on an Evo bottom end, so check everything to your satisfaction of specs and a good top-end refresh will probably do you well.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Thanks for the great input, its good to hear 90,000 miles is not a realbad thing for an evo bottom end.The top end will get a total redo for sure along with a set of quick install pushrods cam and lifters.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Good input, got home today after 500 mile tripand unbelievable how well the bike ran, it sure gave no indication that motor needed to be torn down other than an oil leak that seemed to be coming from the cam cover lower area, the clutch side was dry and I had been expecting to be leaking from shifter shafter and inner seal. From the car lot the saleguy gave me the phone number of the previous owner and I called him up, he claims the stator and regular were replaced on the bike which could be why no leaks on clutch side. Speaking of clutch something weird was going on in first gear take off and only seemed to happen when bike was not really warmed up like 20 minutes of riding done, when I'd disengage the clutch rather quickly it would cause bike to learch and make a really bad squeeling sound but after I rode it for a while it seemed fine, then I went out again to niteand it did the same until after it was fully warmed up. Any ideas on this?The preowner did say he had replaced the clutch with entire newsetup, he said something about this one not having rivets.
Oh ya I rode back to hotel we were staying at and next morning ( this morning ) blew speedo cable first thing so had to go on tack.
Oh ya I rode back to hotel we were staying at and next morning ( this morning ) blew speedo cable first thing so had to go on tack.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Take your manual and readjust the clutch. If you do not have a manual, just ask fo instructions. But you should get a manual.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Adjusted clutch cable to looser at bar, still have to go easy with clutch forfirst gear. I did compression test today and got an even 115 on front and back. My buddy thinks I got older rivera clutch. I also found out it wasn't speedo cable that broke but the speedo drive seized and spun the little tab around flat. Anyone know which part number I need for this bike 89 classic police model vin is 1HD1DFL10KY Model:FLHT POLICE = Touring, there's a mess of them available.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Adjusting the cable looser at the handlebar will make it harder to go into first gear. You need to loosen it all the way, then take the cover off of the primary. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack, turn the adjusting screw in until it makes contact with the rod ( you will feel a little resistance), then back it off 1/2 turn. Then lock it back down with the lock nut being careful not to change the adjustment. Then readjust the cable so that you have 1/8" of free play. Measure the free play where the cable ferule goes into the clutch handle.
If you still have problems then you need to look at your tranny linkage for loose/worn linkage or perhaps the shifter pawl is out of adjustment, also make sure that your primary chain is adjusted correctly. If that doesn't fix the problem you may have a problem in your clutch pack. Hope this helps.
If you still have problems then you need to look at your tranny linkage for loose/worn linkage or perhaps the shifter pawl is out of adjustment, also make sure that your primary chain is adjusted correctly. If that doesn't fix the problem you may have a problem in your clutch pack. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
John I'm having no problem at all going into first gear, I think its just slipping and it doesn't do it all the time if I let clutch out really slow and not agressively it works fine, I think its lipping although I can't say for sure as I'm never experienced this before only slippage in higher gears and I just turned the clutch screw out a bit more. Is it possible the clutch oil is to low? I did open up the dirby cover and I could see the oil.