Evo Dresser Swingarm Upgrade
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
Can you comment on final gearing? Did the later swing arm/rear fork make any difference to the number of teeth on your belt?
I am working on ...
Front pulley - Rear pulley - Belt
Ah, it's possibly answered, here at 139T but I don't know of any differences between the 1990 and 1996 swing arms. Damn ... not more shopping and shipping!
I am working on ...
Front pulley - Rear pulley - Belt
32 + 70 - 136 tooth belt (1996 FLH) 1/12"
32 + 66 - 137 tooth belt (2006/7 FLH) 1 1/8"
32 + 64 - 136 tooth belt (2006/7 FLH int) 1 1/8"
32 + 70 - 139 tooth belt (2006/7 FLH) 1 1/8"
How does the 32 + 64 ride?32 + 66 - 137 tooth belt (2006/7 FLH) 1 1/8"
32 + 64 - 136 tooth belt (2006/7 FLH int) 1 1/8"
32 + 70 - 139 tooth belt (2006/7 FLH) 1 1/8"
Ah, it's possibly answered, here at 139T but I don't know of any differences between the 1990 and 1996 swing arms. Damn ... not more shopping and shipping!
On my 1990 bike I found, after committing to the 2007 swingarm conversion and having installed it, that my bike had a shorter swingarm than my 'new' one. I discovered that Harley increased s/a length, I would guess when they adopted the under-trans oil tank. So I had to go to a longer belt, also used the narrow pulley that came with my s/h wheel. So I now have a 139T 1 1/8" belt.
I have found with a later project (to fit a 2008 rear fender), that it also is different to my 1990. I deduce that to get the battery under the seat Harley extended the s/a and shortened the fender, to provide extra space for it.
My bike originally had a 61T rear pulley, being an International spec. You appear to have studied the intervening models more thoroughly than I have! Personally I wouldn't want to go back to higher gearing. A 64T compared with a 70T means 9% higher gearing and losing 9% torque at the rear wheel. How would it ride? The bike would be a bit slower in accelerating and hill climbing, compare with the same bike with 32/70 pulleys.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Overseas
Ah, there's a more complex mathematical equation to consider.
It's ...
Loss of acceleration x (price of buying a new belt and pulley off Ebay - price of selling old belt) / how long current belt is likely to last.
As you've stated, Evos smooth out wonderfully and become much more responsive if you spin them a little faster. Below that they have the same kind of appeal as a vibro-masseur chair ... not exactly unpleasant but not exactly what you want to spend 8 hours on.
21T makes good sense to me.
I was interested by the theoretical top seed to copy with sound level theory and it makes sense. If they've designed the gear box around sound regulations no wonder it does not make sense.
I also recommend ear plugs at all times and wish someone had to be when I was young (... WHAT DID YOU SAY?). Perhaps if they had I wouldn't have this constant ringing in my ears now ...
It's ...
Loss of acceleration x (price of buying a new belt and pulley off Ebay - price of selling old belt) / how long current belt is likely to last.
As you've stated, Evos smooth out wonderfully and become much more responsive if you spin them a little faster. Below that they have the same kind of appeal as a vibro-masseur chair ... not exactly unpleasant but not exactly what you want to spend 8 hours on.
21T makes good sense to me.
I was interested by the theoretical top seed to copy with sound level theory and it makes sense. If they've designed the gear box around sound regulations no wonder it does not make sense.
I also recommend ear plugs at all times and wish someone had to be when I was young (... WHAT DID YOU SAY?). Perhaps if they had I wouldn't have this constant ringing in my ears now ...
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
Bangs for bucks question ...
In the name of science, or rather economics, I'm wonder which is the most bang for bucks ...
Going up to a 1" axle set up, requiring a new swingarm and wheel etc, or sticking with a 3/4" set up and just buying better shocks?
I'm guessing, if you have an engine in standard tune, sticking with 3/4" setup and going for the quality shocks. However, in your case you have a much beefier motor and additional passenger weight to contend with (no offence to the missus intended).
In the name of science, or rather economics, I'm wonder which is the most bang for bucks ...
Going up to a 1" axle set up, requiring a new swingarm and wheel etc, or sticking with a 3/4" set up and just buying better shocks?
I'm guessing, if you have an engine in standard tune, sticking with 3/4" setup and going for the quality shocks. However, in your case you have a much beefier motor and additional passenger weight to contend with (no offence to the missus intended).
The 1" s/a is made of deeper section tubing than the previous ones and is also much more sturdily braced in the crook of the U, where each arm joins the pivot. In addition they have a solid axle mounting for the axle. With the two swingarms alongside each other the comparison is quite something! The new s/a must be much stiffer in torsion, side to side, than the original one I took off.
So in changing s/a I was looking to get that improved torsional stability, on which to fit high spec shocks and get the best out of them. I reasoned that the stronger s/a must contribute to improved bike stability, although didn't ride it until I also had my super Ohlins installed. I can't isolate the improvements of shocks from s/a, but the end results are most satisfactory!
I bought a s/a discarded from a trike conversion, so got it complete with the brake caliper, axle etc, to which I added a wheel, which came with pulley and rotor. So in two purchases I got all I needed (except a braided brake hose) for my conversion. I already had a True-Track Trackula kit installed, so modified the bushings to fit the later s/a.
There is no denying that simply using a decent set of shocks will give improved ride and save the aggro of all the other mods I did. My fancy motor wasn't a consideration, just the reasonable expectation that rear wheel control will be improved, providing an even better foundation for expensive shocks.
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From: Bedford UK
Good chap! I've been using them since the mid-70s. As a Harley owner back then I regularly bought US bike mags, courtesy a local newsagent that carried lots of different imported mags. In one of them there was an extensive article, prompted by the US Forest Service study of noise in the workplace, which gave scientific proof of the levels of noise we suffer while riding and how to deal with it. Unfortunately that predates the internet and never seems to have been passed on to more recent riders!
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From: Overseas
Sticking to swing arms for one moment, where should I measure to document the length of this swing arm in order to compare to the earlier and later ones?
I have a 2007 sitting on the bench. As you say, they look like they have been on a course of steroids, or viagra, in comparison to the old ones.
Yah, this is a new thread but I can remember similar studies, something like ... if riding a motorcycle was a piece of industrial machinery, one would only be allowed to operate it for about 45 minutes.
It was a long time ago and I cannot remember the details but I do remember helmet noise reaching above 100 db. Noise = stress = tiredness = poor decision making = ear damage.
University of Florida researchers found that at 65 mph, a motorcycle's engine can reach up to 116 dB ... the Occupational Health and Safety Administration warns that exposure to 100 dB is safe for only 15 minutes ... the loudest bike measured was 128.2 dB in a “no helmet” condition. This noise level is only safe for exactly one second, after which, damage to hearing can and will occur.
They confirmed almost exactly the 45 minute estimate and that was on the quietest bike with a helmet, a BMW.
I have a 2007 sitting on the bench. As you say, they look like they have been on a course of steroids, or viagra, in comparison to the old ones.
It was a long time ago and I cannot remember the details but I do remember helmet noise reaching above 100 db. Noise = stress = tiredness = poor decision making = ear damage.
University of Florida researchers found that at 65 mph, a motorcycle's engine can reach up to 116 dB ... the Occupational Health and Safety Administration warns that exposure to 100 dB is safe for only 15 minutes ... the loudest bike measured was 128.2 dB in a “no helmet” condition. This noise level is only safe for exactly one second, after which, damage to hearing can and will occur.
They confirmed almost exactly the 45 minute estimate and that was on the quietest bike with a helmet, a BMW.
The level at which employers must provide hearing protection and hearing protection zones is now 85 decibels and the level at which employers must assess the risk to workers' health and provide them with information and training is now 80 decibels.
OSHA allows 8 hours of exposure to 90 dBA but only 2 hours of exposure to 100 dBA sound levels. NIOSH would recommend limiting the 8 hour exposure to less than 85 dBA.
At 100 dBA, NIOSH recommends less than 15 minutes of exposure per day.
OSHA allows 8 hours of exposure to 90 dBA but only 2 hours of exposure to 100 dBA sound levels. NIOSH would recommend limiting the 8 hour exposure to less than 85 dBA.
At 100 dBA, NIOSH recommends less than 15 minutes of exposure per day.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Sticking to swing arms for one moment, where should I measure to document the length of this swing arm in order to compare to the earlier and later ones?
I have a 2007 sitting on the bench. As you say, they look like they have been on a course of steroids, or viagra, in comparison to the old ones.
I have a 2007 sitting on the bench. As you say, they look like they have been on a course of steroids, or viagra, in comparison to the old ones.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Yah, this is a new thread but I can remember similar studies, something like ... if riding a motorcycle was a piece of industrial machinery, one would only be allowed to operate it for about 45 minutes.
It was a long time ago and I cannot remember the details but I do remember helmet noise reaching above 100 db. Noise = stress = tiredness = poor decision making = ear damage.
University of Florida researchers found that at 65 mph, a motorcycle's engine can reach up to 116 dB ... the Occupational Health and Safety Administration warns that exposure to 100 dB is safe for only 15 minutes ... the loudest bike measured was 128.2 dB in a no helmet condition. This noise level is only safe for exactly one second, after which, damage to hearing can and will occur.
They confirmed almost exactly the 45 minute estimate and that was on the quietest bike with a helmet, a BMW.
It was a long time ago and I cannot remember the details but I do remember helmet noise reaching above 100 db. Noise = stress = tiredness = poor decision making = ear damage.
University of Florida researchers found that at 65 mph, a motorcycle's engine can reach up to 116 dB ... the Occupational Health and Safety Administration warns that exposure to 100 dB is safe for only 15 minutes ... the loudest bike measured was 128.2 dB in a no helmet condition. This noise level is only safe for exactly one second, after which, damage to hearing can and will occur.
They confirmed almost exactly the 45 minute estimate and that was on the quietest bike with a helmet, a BMW.
Mrs B and I wear ear plugs on the bike, in the car and especially on aircraft.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 418
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From: Overseas
Another footnote ... from someone attempting to follow this route on a 1994-1996 model Road King.
I've got as far as removing the old swing arm and just took some rough measurements of it.
Not sure how your Electra Glide measures up but from the centre of the swing arm spindle / axle to the beginning of the adjuster hole is approximately 16 1/4". To the end of the hole is 18".
The 2007 swing arm I have is, from memory, 17" to 19" ... so it's almost a full inch longer.
I did not stop to observe where the rear wheel axle was position in order to judge if and how much longer a belt I will need. That was a dumb thing to do ...
Something else to note:
I was fully prepared to have to change my brake discs because the 3/4" wheel discs have either a smaller internal diameter (front) or different mounting system (rear). I let the old cast iron rear go, as it was pretty close to its limits, and am currently debating on whether to swop out the floating front discs or have them machined to fit ...
However, I had not taken into consideration that I would have to swop out or machine to fit the 1 1/2" 70T rear rotor.
It also has an internal diameter that is too small.
Of course, doing so means that I can go down to a new 1 1/18" or 1" belt and fatter rear wheel.
So, folks, it seems the conversion is an all or nothing job and best done as an *all*.
I went with two 16x3.00 Airstrikes ... looking at them I am trying to work out what difference there is between the front and the rear. It appears to be very little confirmed by read someone online machined the front 18x3.50 to fit on the rear.
Does anyone know if they are different and how ... I'm just hoping I've not been sold two fronts!
I've got as far as removing the old swing arm and just took some rough measurements of it.
Not sure how your Electra Glide measures up but from the centre of the swing arm spindle / axle to the beginning of the adjuster hole is approximately 16 1/4". To the end of the hole is 18".
The 2007 swing arm I have is, from memory, 17" to 19" ... so it's almost a full inch longer.
I did not stop to observe where the rear wheel axle was position in order to judge if and how much longer a belt I will need. That was a dumb thing to do ...
Something else to note:
I was fully prepared to have to change my brake discs because the 3/4" wheel discs have either a smaller internal diameter (front) or different mounting system (rear). I let the old cast iron rear go, as it was pretty close to its limits, and am currently debating on whether to swop out the floating front discs or have them machined to fit ...
However, I had not taken into consideration that I would have to swop out or machine to fit the 1 1/2" 70T rear rotor.
It also has an internal diameter that is too small.
Of course, doing so means that I can go down to a new 1 1/18" or 1" belt and fatter rear wheel.
So, folks, it seems the conversion is an all or nothing job and best done as an *all*.
I went with two 16x3.00 Airstrikes ... looking at them I am trying to work out what difference there is between the front and the rear. It appears to be very little confirmed by read someone online machined the front 18x3.50 to fit on the rear.
Does anyone know if they are different and how ... I'm just hoping I've not been sold two fronts!
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From: Massachusetts
Another footnote ... from someone attempting to follow this route on a 1994-1996 model Road King.
I've got as far as removing the old swing arm and just took some rough measurements of it.
Not sure how your Electra Glide measures up but from the centre of the swing arm spindle / axle to the beginning of the adjuster hole is approximately 16 1/4". To the end of the hole is 18".
The 2007 swing arm I have is, from memory, 17" to 19" ... so it's almost a full inch longer.
I did not stop to observe where the rear wheel axle was position in order to judge if and how much longer a belt I will need. That was a dumb thing to do ...
Something else to note:
I was fully prepared to have to change my brake discs because the 3/4" wheel discs have either a smaller internal diameter (front) or different mounting system (rear). I let the old cast iron rear go, as it was pretty close to its limits, and am currently debating on whether to swop out the floating front discs or have them machined to fit ...
However, I had not taken into consideration that I would have to swop out or machine to fit the 1 1/2" 70T rear rotor.
It also has an internal diameter that is too small.
Of course, doing so means that I can go down to a new 1 1/18" or 1" belt and fatter rear wheel.
So, folks, it seems the conversion is an all or nothing job and best done as an *all*.
I went with two 16x3.00 Airstrikes ... looking at them I am trying to work out what difference there is between the front and the rear. It appears to be very little confirmed by read someone online machined the front 18x3.50 to fit on the rear.
Does anyone know if they are different and how ... I'm just hoping I've not been sold two fronts!
I've got as far as removing the old swing arm and just took some rough measurements of it.
Not sure how your Electra Glide measures up but from the centre of the swing arm spindle / axle to the beginning of the adjuster hole is approximately 16 1/4". To the end of the hole is 18".
The 2007 swing arm I have is, from memory, 17" to 19" ... so it's almost a full inch longer.
I did not stop to observe where the rear wheel axle was position in order to judge if and how much longer a belt I will need. That was a dumb thing to do ...
Something else to note:
I was fully prepared to have to change my brake discs because the 3/4" wheel discs have either a smaller internal diameter (front) or different mounting system (rear). I let the old cast iron rear go, as it was pretty close to its limits, and am currently debating on whether to swop out the floating front discs or have them machined to fit ...
However, I had not taken into consideration that I would have to swop out or machine to fit the 1 1/2" 70T rear rotor.
It also has an internal diameter that is too small.
Of course, doing so means that I can go down to a new 1 1/18" or 1" belt and fatter rear wheel.
So, folks, it seems the conversion is an all or nothing job and best done as an *all*.
I went with two 16x3.00 Airstrikes ... looking at them I am trying to work out what difference there is between the front and the rear. It appears to be very little confirmed by read someone online machined the front 18x3.50 to fit on the rear.
Does anyone know if they are different and how ... I'm just hoping I've not been sold two fronts!
on the rear: the holes will be bigger on one side vs the other (3/8-16 vs 5/16-18 IIRC).
I just did a rear for now (wagon wheel), i'll do a front eventually, but my end goal for the front is to get a 19" or 21" wheel under an aftermarket fender so it's a ways away.
I've already got a chain, so should have LOTS of clearance, but I picked up the new tire tonight (mounted and balanced for me), a 150mm Avon. it's a biggun! eyeballing it, i've got probably <1/4" between the edge of the sprocket and the sidewall of the tire...so I may have to put a spacer underneath it (gonna mock up tonight). got nothing but time til spring to get it to all fit nicely together...so I'll let ya know what I find
Dirt don't hurt
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From: Haslet Texas
I went with two 16x3.00 Airstrikes ... looking at them I am trying to work out what difference there is between the front and the rear. It appears to be very little confirmed by read someone online machined the front 18x3.50 to fit on the rear.
Does anyone know if they are different and how ... I'm just hoping I've not been sold two fronts!
Does anyone know if they are different and how ... I'm just hoping I've not been sold two fronts!
Best I can tell is that the rear wheel has different size bolt holes in it from brake rotor to drive sprocket. The front wheel has the same size bolt holes on both sides.
At least they are on the wagon wheels I just got.