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I know I've topped 5k on my 90 FLHTCU a few times. It wasn't making much more power, it was just the process of shifting and racing a friend. Normally I don't go that far as you can feel the power start to taper off after about 4500. Part of me wants to blow it up so I can get a shiny new engine - a really big one. But the smarter part of me wants to keep it going a long time as I really do like the way it runs. My highway speed is generally 70-75 and that is right around 3000.
The 80 I used to have had 10 to 1 wiesco's, ported heads, EV-27, a Thunderheader, Mikuni 42 and a Crane HI-4E. I had the rev limited set at 5600 and she would pull up to the limiter but was starting to fall off. The V-Thunder 5010 would pull to the limiter without fall off. Didn't run it that hard very much but I put 35,000 on it until I stripped the timing plug and bought the 113.
Hey Fatboy,
Did you know that Midwest/Ultima is having an open house/bike show/dealers convention on October 3rd. We will be there, so if you are in the neighborhood stop by and say hello.
Lots of input here. The ev-27 is focused on midrange power - where we spend most of our time. As Ogre says, higher RPMs is just noise; when getting on it, shift between 4500 and 5500. And as Dog says, blow out the carbon once in a while.
I shift when it feels right. I have no rev limiter with my early SE ignition. So, every once in a while, I run it until the valves float and hit the next gear. Usually, though, if I'm trying to make power, I guess I shift around 5500 to 6K or so. Otherwise, if just normal riding, I run it up until it feels like the next gear will pull good. Same with going down. If I can make more power in the next gear down and I need it, I downshift.
In '02, my speedo went out on the way to Sturgis. Going across I90 all the way, I just set the tach at 4000-4200 RPM and left it there. On the way back, I had fixed the speedo and realized that might have been a tad fast, at like about 90-95. Guess that's why all them twinkies weren't keeping up. Pulling onramps behind Twinkies, especially at altitude, I have to back off of full throttle.
the ignition module that I have has 4 curves going from 6300 rpm to 8000 and according tospecs I have it set at 7000 rpms but can't seem to find that great of a difference, maybe because I don't rev the engine if not needed
As when driving cars or any other clutch driven vehicle, there's a spot in which the gears merge, sort of speak,this spot in cars is generally between 2500 -3000 rpm
the spot I'm talking aobut is the place in which u shift and u can't feel a sudden change but still strong to continue going, put in simpler ways... it's between the bike needing more gas to get power and the point in which u can feel the compression braking of the engine,if u hit the spot ur ride will be smoother and u will also improve MPG
My bike is stone stock, I seem to shift her at about 3000 for most riding. For the first time since I bought her a month ago, I did ring her out threw 4 gears right to 5K and grabbed the next one. Just kinda wanted to know what she would do. She didn't seem to mind. I have a Buell I race at the track for when I feel like beating on a bike.
Bone stock motor with S&S Carb, Drag Pipes, Adjustable Ignition Module, and a EV-51 Andrews cam. Pulls great till 6500 and the rev limiter is set at 7000 which i hit a lot when im power shifting. Runs great with 10K miles...
I have the EV27 cam-she seems to pull stronger all the way up to 5000 RPM's! Today I found myself shifting alot at around 4000 R's. (I was in a hurry!)
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