front pulley questions
Thread Starter
|
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
It may be George, but I can't convince myself to split the cases after only 20,000 since I put in a new pin, rod bushings and rollers. And it is smooth and quiet on decel. It won't even rattle most of the time. Just did new jugs, pistons and wrist bushings and the rods felt good.
So if it is a bad rod, it'll be the first one I ever did that "came back" and it sure doesn't have the symptoms of one - just similar sound in a different place. So I'm gonna go thru the tranny cause I know it's way over due anyway and eliminate that possibility. If that don't work, then I'll have egg on my face and flywheel in truing stand
... and yes, I'll own up to that publically if that ends up being the case.
Yes, going all the way thru it. Thanks to some posts from Dan89flstc some time back in another section, I have the tools I'm missing on the way and already wrote out the parts list from HD. Be easier to order a Jims kit, but for the difference in money, I'll go OEM and save enough bucks for half the tools I need.
I did seriously consider a 6 speed some time back, but after sitting on it for 14 days at 3700 rpms (82mph) last year, I decided it was geared just fine for my use and this is the only part of one I've not been in to, so time to learn I reckon
So if it is a bad rod, it'll be the first one I ever did that "came back" and it sure doesn't have the symptoms of one - just similar sound in a different place. So I'm gonna go thru the tranny cause I know it's way over due anyway and eliminate that possibility. If that don't work, then I'll have egg on my face and flywheel in truing stand
... and yes, I'll own up to that publically if that ends up being the case.Yes, going all the way thru it. Thanks to some posts from Dan89flstc some time back in another section, I have the tools I'm missing on the way and already wrote out the parts list from HD. Be easier to order a Jims kit, but for the difference in money, I'll go OEM and save enough bucks for half the tools I need.
I did seriously consider a 6 speed some time back, but after sitting on it for 14 days at 3700 rpms (82mph) last year, I decided it was geared just fine for my use and this is the only part of one I've not been in to, so time to learn I reckon
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
I didn't realize that you did the lower end so just ride it like you stole it You are probably just like any mechanic with that syndrome of WHAT IS THAT NOISE Air line pilots are not usually mechanically inclined It is a curse
Thread Starter
|
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
just waiting on tools and parts...
Last edited by t150vej; Oct 8, 2009 at 10:50 AM.
Thread Starter
|
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
George is at it again - "contributing to the delinquency of a minor"
I figured it'd be loose on the shaft if it were cracked and it was tight, but I'll put it "under the microscope" to be sure. Thanks for reminding me - serious!
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: The Tropics
BUMP!
Don't mind if I borrow this thread for my 'front pulley question'.
Under load, the belt squeaks and the sound's coming from the front pulley. The part where the belt rides is noticibly worn on the pulley. Is this the cause of the sound? If so, I need a new pulley.
There seem to be pulley's with a different number of teeth that fit a 96 FLHR. Which one do I get? Is a Barnett Long Life one any better than a stock pulley?
I've noticed different materials being used, Aluminium, Cast Iron and Steel. I'm guessing Aluminium is only for racing purposes so let's forget about that. How about cast iron and steel? By steel i'm assuming CNC cut. Which is better? Which is harder? Is harder better? Would a harder pulley cause he drive belt to wear out faster?
Don't mind if I borrow this thread for my 'front pulley question'.
Under load, the belt squeaks and the sound's coming from the front pulley. The part where the belt rides is noticibly worn on the pulley. Is this the cause of the sound? If so, I need a new pulley.
There seem to be pulley's with a different number of teeth that fit a 96 FLHR. Which one do I get? Is a Barnett Long Life one any better than a stock pulley?
I've noticed different materials being used, Aluminium, Cast Iron and Steel. I'm guessing Aluminium is only for racing purposes so let's forget about that. How about cast iron and steel? By steel i'm assuming CNC cut. Which is better? Which is harder? Is harder better? Would a harder pulley cause he drive belt to wear out faster?
Thread Starter
|
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
I'm guessing they list different sizes because 96 offered 6-speed as an option...
If you need a 32T I have a brand new one with nut, seal, lock, etc that I'd love to sell. It does not have the spacer (that the seal runs on) Midwest # 94-378 Send me a PM if you can use it...
If you need a 32T I have a brand new one with nut, seal, lock, etc that I'd love to sell. It does not have the spacer (that the seal runs on) Midwest # 94-378 Send me a PM if you can use it...
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
No Dan, that wasn't the source, but I did later find it in the engine and fixed it... I'm too embarrassed to explain that one. It did need bearings though, not desperately and would have run a good long time I'm sure, but am glad I did it.
You were right, it was a very straight forward operation and actually enjoyable with the proper tools. Thanks again for the list. And as you predicted, the mainshaft had very little groove where the main drive seal runs. It dawned on me while draining the lube that those 2 parts only turn at different speeds in 1st thru 4th, unlike an engine main or a wheel bearing seal. Just a few twists with 600 grit cleaned it right up. I was also amazed to see the shifter return spring was barely worn at all, even with 105,000 miles. Actually it wasn't worn, just shiny where it rides on the sharp corners of the plate. I was tempted to leave it alone, but already had the new one(s) and replaced them.
The new pulley kit was on backorder from my preferred source, so my parts guy ordered from a different place and it came in with no spacer Well, the dealer was out of the later model spacer but had the spacer for the old pulley, which was tight and looked great so I went back with it.
If I'd had any problem gears, I'd have followed the suggestion of 96 FXD and bought a complete gear set. I figure if you had to buy 2 gears and/or a shaft from HD, a whole set would be cheaper. But on the other hand, I wonder if a lot of guys realize those gear sets do not include the main drive gear, bearing, and nose bearings so there is extra cost involved if one goes that way.
I turn about 3650 at 80 MPH and the engine really likes it all day long when I'm "out there" where I can do it, so I'm totally good with the stock 5- speed.
You were right, it was a very straight forward operation and actually enjoyable with the proper tools. Thanks again for the list. And as you predicted, the mainshaft had very little groove where the main drive seal runs. It dawned on me while draining the lube that those 2 parts only turn at different speeds in 1st thru 4th, unlike an engine main or a wheel bearing seal. Just a few twists with 600 grit cleaned it right up. I was also amazed to see the shifter return spring was barely worn at all, even with 105,000 miles. Actually it wasn't worn, just shiny where it rides on the sharp corners of the plate. I was tempted to leave it alone, but already had the new one(s) and replaced them.
The new pulley kit was on backorder from my preferred source, so my parts guy ordered from a different place and it came in with no spacer Well, the dealer was out of the later model spacer but had the spacer for the old pulley, which was tight and looked great so I went back with it.
If I'd had any problem gears, I'd have followed the suggestion of 96 FXD and bought a complete gear set. I figure if you had to buy 2 gears and/or a shaft from HD, a whole set would be cheaper. But on the other hand, I wonder if a lot of guys realize those gear sets do not include the main drive gear, bearing, and nose bearings so there is extra cost involved if one goes that way.
I turn about 3650 at 80 MPH and the engine really likes it all day long when I'm "out there" where I can do it, so I'm totally good with the stock 5- speed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BUTLERR1
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
3
Nov 2, 2013 06:04 PM
Jumpman
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
7
Aug 23, 2013 03:29 AM
