front pulley questions
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
front pulley questions
I've been chasing a knock/rattle for some time and riding today decided that my front pulley has gotten a tick loose. (87 FLT 105,000 miles) I've read lots of (good) advice, over time, to upgrade to the later pulley, but would like to cheat my way out of the bucks for new parts if possible. My question is how tight do they normally fit onto the 5th gear splines? Or, since it's gotten loose enough to knock in a pull, do y'all reckon it's probably ruined?
It's worse when cold and somewhat better when the bike is up to temp and the only check after riding I did was rocking in gear and heard the soft clank when the belt pulled it against the engine. Naturally I'll tear it down in the next few days and investigate further, just wanted some experienced opinions on the chances (or lack of) that I might save this one with proper torque and loctite.
PS, no leaks, knock on wood, so the pulley is the only issue.
Thanks guys....
It's worse when cold and somewhat better when the bike is up to temp and the only check after riding I did was rocking in gear and heard the soft clank when the belt pulled it against the engine. Naturally I'll tear it down in the next few days and investigate further, just wanted some experienced opinions on the chances (or lack of) that I might save this one with proper torque and loctite.
PS, no leaks, knock on wood, so the pulley is the only issue.
Thanks guys....
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,199
Likes: 3,087
From: NW AR
While I don't have any direct experience with a loose pulley there, in my experience with other things that attach like that, if it's loose, it's shot. Tightening and loctite won't replace missing metal. Of course, you need to pull it apart, look and make sure that's the problem, but if it is the pulley loose, I'd say time for a new one.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
Thanks Hess
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
Rufus,
As you know already, you won't really know until you get her apart. The newer style pulley has more spline thickness. With that being said, if the mainshaft is not worn too badly there might be enough extra spine in the newer style pulley to get the job done.
I have a new Baker 32T longlife on the shelf if it will help ya.
As you know already, you won't really know until you get her apart. The newer style pulley has more spline thickness. With that being said, if the mainshaft is not worn too badly there might be enough extra spine in the newer style pulley to get the job done.
I have a new Baker 32T longlife on the shelf if it will help ya.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
Rufus,
As you know already, you won't really know until you get her apart. The newer style pulley has more spline thickness. With that being said, if the mainshaft is not worn too badly there might be enough extra spine in the newer style pulley to get the job done.
I have a new Baker 32T longlife on the shelf if it will help ya.
As you know already, you won't really know until you get her apart. The newer style pulley has more spline thickness. With that being said, if the mainshaft is not worn too badly there might be enough extra spine in the newer style pulley to get the job done.
I have a new Baker 32T longlife on the shelf if it will help ya.
Now I understand why many "kits" include the seal and appropriate spacer - to allow for the extra hub width of the pulley splines. Learn something everyday.
Thanks Buddy, I'll keep that "spare part" in mind.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
Rufus HD did the fatter spline on the belt pulley in late93 My 93 FLHS had the old spline set up so I changed it before the loose sprocket grief The kit has a different spacer/ seal/ lock plate system I had a guy come into the shop in 1993 on a 93 bagger with a tranny oil leak Well after I put the mirror under the trany to see how loose the pulley had gotten I asked him if the bike still had a warrenty The answer was yes and HD had to replace the main shaft and 5th gear!
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
I got the outer and inner off. Only sign of a leak is moist dust that is clearly from the shifter shaft. I can move the pulley, actually the 5th gear and all, about .010-.020 in and out but the pulley is tight on 5th gear. If I bump it with my hand it'll clank and of course turning/slamming the mainshaft against it (in high gear) it'll clank. I get about 20 degrees rotation between the mainshaft and 5th gear when engaged ???
Tranny has had a noticable whine in 4th a long time, but not excessive and did get better with full syn gear oil after changing from semi-syn and have only gotten normal amounts of metal dust off the plug at changes.
It sounds like a rod knock when it does the noise, but not happening "when" a rod would normally knock/rattle. I'm kinda bluffed on that one. But maybe the harmonics of the belt vibration combined with loose bearings etc. is causing the rattle (and I hope that doesn't turns out to be wishful thinking)
The book gives zero endplay for the 5th gear and the mainshaft, each of which I have at least .015 endplay so reckon I'll get some "off the job" training and see what happens to the rattle/knock when I'm done with a rebuild.
I don't have any tranny experience on these and certainly welcome any helpful hints... guess it's time to shop for tranny tools
Thanks everybody
PS: I already changed the compensator washer, slider and gear. Rattle changed a little but wasn't the cause...
Tranny has had a noticable whine in 4th a long time, but not excessive and did get better with full syn gear oil after changing from semi-syn and have only gotten normal amounts of metal dust off the plug at changes.
It sounds like a rod knock when it does the noise, but not happening "when" a rod would normally knock/rattle. I'm kinda bluffed on that one. But maybe the harmonics of the belt vibration combined with loose bearings etc. is causing the rattle (and I hope that doesn't turns out to be wishful thinking)
The book gives zero endplay for the 5th gear and the mainshaft, each of which I have at least .015 endplay so reckon I'll get some "off the job" training and see what happens to the rattle/knock when I'm done with a rebuild.
I don't have any tranny experience on these and certainly welcome any helpful hints... guess it's time to shop for tranny tools
Thanks everybody
PS: I already changed the compensator washer, slider and gear. Rattle changed a little but wasn't the cause...
Last edited by t150vej; Oct 5, 2009 at 02:25 PM. Reason: ps
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Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
Rufus 105,000 miles Good God ride it like you stole it just like the tee shirts say ! I think it's rod knock !!
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,143
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From: South Carolina
Are you planning to rebuild using the tapered mainshaft? I changed my `89 over to the splined mainshaft/clutch hub configuration last spring, and still have all my parts lists.
If you just need to change the bearings and seals it will cost about 170 bucks from the dealer. That price includes the springs on the shifter pawl, they definitely must be replaced.
I got most of my tranny tools from Georges Garage, good tools and they ship very fast.
You will also need a couple of snap ring pliers, and also a pair of internal expanding ring pliers for the rings that hold the gears on the shafts.
When you push the main drive gear out of the ball bearing keep in mind that the case on the far side of the bearing (inside) is a weak area and can fail, so don`t try to tap it out
These transmissions are very straight forward to work on, the hardest part of the job is removing the inner and outer primary covers
If you just need to change the bearings and seals it will cost about 170 bucks from the dealer. That price includes the springs on the shifter pawl, they definitely must be replaced.
I got most of my tranny tools from Georges Garage, good tools and they ship very fast.
You will also need a couple of snap ring pliers, and also a pair of internal expanding ring pliers for the rings that hold the gears on the shafts.
When you push the main drive gear out of the ball bearing keep in mind that the case on the far side of the bearing (inside) is a weak area and can fail, so don`t try to tap it out
These transmissions are very straight forward to work on, the hardest part of the job is removing the inner and outer primary covers
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: AZ
If you're going to be all the way in there, and are getting the tools, I would add up the cost of the parts you need, and depending on the total, look at an Ultima 6 speed. My 5 speed is on it's last leg, so for a little more than the price of a rebuild I picked up an Ultima to go in it's place after the factory trans blows up.
Don't forget to replace the shifter pawl while you're in there.
Don't forget to replace the shifter pawl while you're in there.