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Removing the air system requires partly dismantling the batwing, to get to the tops of the fork legs, and to do that you really need a copy of the factory service manual. It's not difficult to do, but is quite involved. To get a measure of the parts involved use this website, to see the exploded diagrams for your batwing, handlebars, forks and air control system.
The cleanest thing to do is remove all the manifold and pipework, which will require two screws, to blank the threaded holes in the fork caps. Alternatively buy replacement solid caps.
You will probably find that the forks don't work very well, with no air in them. The least you should do is replace the fork springs with, I suggest, Race Tech single rate springs, which you can match to your weight. They will compensate for the lack of air assistance.
do you think the progressive heavy duty springs would work i have a set of them laying around?
do you think the progressive heavy duty springs would work i have a set of them laying around?
They should be fine. The HD means heavy duty, which may be too much if you are a lightweight! Personally I'm not fond of progressive-rate springs, which is all that Progressive make AFAIK, but if they're free......
i have a 1996 ultra classic and it has the air resevior in the handlebars but im wanting to go with apes. i saw where you said it can certainly be removed i was wondering if you could explain to me how to remove this if at all possible. thanks
If it works and you just want to swap bars it is pretty easy on a dresser to do that and keep it working.
I swapped out the bars on my 94 ultra and went back to using the front crash bar as the reservoir again. Added a Schrader valve on right side and an air nipple on left side and ran the hose up the frame into the back of the fairing.
We used 'em for oil coolers on shovels in the 70's with no leaks so I figured it would hold air and work for the anti-dive.
I swapped lower legs last year and added in the heavy rated Progressive springs up front (I'm 6'6" and 300lbs). I replaced all the o-rings and it still works, but I keep the air down at around 5 psi just to have air in it.
Just another option. HD used the crash bars as reservoirs for a few years earlier, but I have no idea of when exactly.
If it works and you just want to swap bars it is pretty easy on a dresser to do that and keep it working.
I swapped out the bars on my 94 ultra and went back to using the front crash bar as the reservoir again. Added a Schrader valve on right side and an air nipple on left side and ran the hose up the frame into the back of the fairing.
Griz
Good idea Griz. My FXR has the anti-dive feather as well. I find it very effective and wouldn't want to give it up while using this particular fork. My solenoid wasn't working for a while due to a poor electrical connection, and that sucked. It does make a significant difference in brake dive. Especially when diving hard into turns while braking. It makes the difference of clearing or scraping the ground.
I left mine on but it makes removing the forks a real PITA. A bud removed his on an 85. He said the anti-dive made the diving worse; I dunno.
I sort of want to take it off to free up some space in the housing but that would require cutting the tube between the forks so there would be no way back. It could be pulled complete but that would require touching the ignition switch and that is something I really, really, really do not want to do.**
Someone posted something about replacing it with ... I think ... a 'softtail system'. (ain't that a strong statement). Didn't know what that meant.
** If you haven't run into the comments yet - the ignition switch is long obsolete and mostly unavailable.
I just bought all new locks, including the Ignition switch from Ronnies online. 1996 Ultra Classic. The previous had disconnected the anti-dive from the handlebars, I reconnected it and put the air fitting back in the right handlebar and it made it ride a better.
1986 FLHTC Apologies in resurrecting an old thread but I'm stuck big time regarding the anti dive system on my scoot. Done lots of reading/research but nowhere can I find an answer to my problem.
I've checked the solenoid and believe it has gone south and call me crazy but I'd like to repair and keep the oem anti dive system. In my opinion the front suspension works quite well with the correct amount of air in the system (15 - 20 lbs). I've also replaced the air line from the crash bar to the solenoid, along with replacing the valve.
So I've followed my Clymer manual and pulled down the front end in order to remove the anti dive system/module, but I can not for the life of me actually get the system out. It's sitting there all loose but I can't manouver it to get it out. I've read about guys just cutting it to swing it out but I want to keep the unit and refurbish.
Am I supposed to remove the ignition module as well, not looking forward to doing that if that's the case or is their something else I'm not doing that needs to be done.
Once you pull the bolts (#20 in the diagram), then the manifold part should lift off. Try some penetrating oil then a light tap with a hammer. Get the right side loose first.
I, too, like the air system. I rebuilt mine with a new solenoid a few years ago.
I kept the anti dive also, used this kit to reseal it back in '11, still working https://www.jpcycles.com/product/230-869/genuine-james-air-control-fork-rebuild-kit?redirectedKeyword=230-869&totalResult=1
I also found that I was getting enough voltage drop to the fairing, which most old bikes do (acc circuit), that the solenoid wouldn't always activate, just replacing the 3 1157 brake light bulbs (tour pack models) with LED's helped,
but adding a relay in the fairing, fed by a new fused power wire direct from the battery, and using the wire from the acc circuit to activate the new relay, and feed new power supply to the acc breaker and also adding a ground from the top triple tree to the frame and addressing the existing grounds gave the whole acc circuit voltage with very little voltage drop, volt gauge reads actual battery voltage and doesn't swing wildly with load.
Something else I did, I had removed the cruise components from the bike, so I wired the power wire for the anti dive solenoid through the unused lighted cruise switch, it's nice to have an indicator that the brake light switches are working and the solenoid is being powered.
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