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Thanks for the replies guys.
I have managed to loosen the air unit but can not seem to actually remove it. See pic below.
The air unit has rolled over backwards, the solenoid is pointing straight ahead. Wire terminals are empty.
Do I have have to remove the ignition switch in order to do that?
So I managed to remove the solenoid, thanks to Dr Hess for the heads up. I still don't believe the actual anti dive air control unit is removable without major open heart surgery or cutting it in half. I guess HD didn't want any of us playing with their gear.
I'm no electrician but ran a simple Ohm's resistance test with my multi meter, I think it's gone south.
Is a basic solenoid like these repairable? If not, I'm up for big $s to get another one from the USA.
Don't really want to replace it with a used one, a bit pointless I reckon especially given the age of it.
So I managed to remove the solenoid, thanks to Dr Hess for the heads up. I still don't believe the actual anti dive air control unit is removable without major open heart surgery or cutting it in half. I guess HD didn't want any of us playing with their gear.
I'm no electrician but ran a simple Ohm's resistance test with my multi meter, I think it's gone south.
Is a basic solenoid like these repairable? If not, I'm up for big $s to get another one from the USA.
Don't really want to replace it with a used one, a bit pointless I reckon especially given the age of it.
I've owned my 1990 Glide from new and have dismantled the forks several times over the years, without any difficulty - the anti-dive didn't present any problems, although I have recently dispensed with it. I can't help wondering how it has held you up! As for the solenoid, I believe it is simply a stock automotive component and you may be able to find one through your local auto parts stores, or an equivalent. Another possibility is your local US car supply chain.
Yeah, I don't know how it gave your that much trouble either.
When I replaced mine, maybe 10 years ago, I dug real deep into the internet and came up with a part number that was almost the same. Like it had an 'A' on the end or something. But not exactly the same. It looked the same. Might have even had a different name on it, like a company got sold or something. I thought about buying it, then called the HD dealer and they could get me the part and I knew it would be the right one, so I did that. When the part arrived, it was the exact same as what I found on the internet, with the same different part number. So, it is available even if the dealer can't get one. Or was 10 years ago anyway. Sorry I don't recall more specific details and I didn't write it down.
Hey Guys,
I'll start off with a Happy New Year to you all. I appreciate the input and comments from well experienced bikers.
Update:
I managed to get hold of a new solenoid, I was lucky as it was apparently the only one left that was suitable in the country (Australia). Went ahead and poured the correct amount of fork oil in each leg. I rigged up a makeshift funnel with reducing lines with an inline tap to regulate getting the oil in.
I then fitted the anti dive air system on, changed to all new copper washers and then tested the air system. Soon realised within about 30 minutes that I had a leak, so I quickly found it using soapy water. It was on the RHS of the module where it sits down on top of the fork. Removed and fitted 2 more copper washers, tested again and now holding air at 20psi (yay).
So I plug everything back on and nothing. As per the Clymer manual I am supposed to hear a whirring or clicking sound when activating the brake. Very annoying to get to this point and still haven't resolved the anti dive activation. The Clymer does NOT have a wiring diagram for the anti dive system. I'm wondering if anyone can shed some light on what wires go where on the valve assembly/unit. I marked all the terminal wires as I took them off but something isn't right.
One lead (either wire) is a ground (earth). The other connects to the brake light bulb circuit. It's usually a spade connector, harness wire should be red. If your brake light isn't working with either the pedal or handlebar lever, fix that first. The wire that actually feeds the brake light bulb also actuates the valve. No brake light - no anti-dive valve operation.
Hi t1,
I understand that the solenoid works off either brake light being activated. The front brake light wasn't working initially (it was stuck on, as is a common problem) but after minor adjustments on the grip I managed to get it to work as it should. I have wired up the solenoid correctly with active going to the terminal that has the brake wires, the other is earthed.
Originally Posted by t150vej
One lead (either wire) is a ground (earth). The other connects to the brake light bulb circuit. It's usually a spade connector, harness wire should be red. If your brake light isn't working with either the pedal or handlebar lever, fix that first. The wire that actually feeds the brake light bulb also actuates the valve. No brake light - no anti-dive valve operation.
Should I just move on and take it that the solenoid is all good, I mean it's brand new? I haven't done a dry run test whereby you connect the air pump with gauge, leave ignition off and bounce the front end up and down. The pump gauge should show variance in the reading. Then the ignition switch is turned on, brake applied and apparently when bouncing up and down the air pressure remains the same.
The valve assembly/unit appears to have all 5 x wires connected to earth, is that right?
Hi t1,
I understand that the solenoid works off either brake light being activated. The front brake light wasn't working initially
.............................................
I'll be glad when this is behind me.
I can appreciate getting done
Mine's an '87 and I have color deficient vision. also, it's been 15+ years since I've been that deep in my dash... but on mine, there are only 2 pairs of the male spade junctions used as in, a wire to an upper and one to a lower spade And another 2 wires connected in similar fashion. It was odd that if either of the brown (I think) were disconnected, voltage dropped to 10 yet everything still worked and I don't recall the block itself, where the terminal strip is attached, being earthed. Two of the wires checked voltage but may have been a feedback. Again, been a long time. Wish I could be more help and if I can locate my diagrams and can offer more info I will soon as possible.
At any rate, if the valve is working you WILL hear a loud click when it actuates - you can hear it with the bike running, even a low highway speeds. So don't call it done until you can hear it. Look for the junction block (plastic) that comes off the right handlebar harness and find the red wire. That will be "brake light out bound" voltage. Somewhere downstream from that point, the red wire should should connect to a valve wire, at some point.
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