cam question
Just abuse.
Which makes sense.
I do not abuse you, and I outline the correct procedure.
You abuse me, and post only misconceptions.
This makes you all great guys, right???????????????
You have strange ideas.
But you may relax, I will continue to post the truth, and stick to the mechanical side.
Buddy must have changed his mind.
.010"-.015" is where I like to set them. The other part of having the lifter blocks out is so you can check gear lash, with the seal removed from the cam cover, and this is done by feel, if you know what your doing. Not something you can do with the blocks installed since you need to slip your fingers down to the cam gear through the lifter block bores!
Speaking of gear lash, I have just installed a new cam into my bike, set my end play to .011", new Torrington inner, lifters, push rods etc.... I did as you just said and checked my cam gear lash while lifter blocks were out, as that seemed to be the only way(IMHO) to get at the cam gear with cover installed. My question is......why so LITTLE gear lash on the cam gear???? I realize that the gear is not gonna expand much.....but if I recall the spec is .000"-.0015"......thats tight......lol. Just wondering if you could shed some light, to me it seems tight....I have been building diesels in heavy equipment for quite awhile and have never seen anything calling for "0" tolerance.....but then again, this is the first time into a Harley, and I have found that they have ALL their own little rules and such......LOL. Have a good day everyone!!!!
.010"-.015" is where I like to set them. The other part of having the lifter blocks out is so you can check gear lash, with the seal removed from the cam cover, and this is done by feel, if you know what your doing. Not something you can do with the blocks installed since you need to slip your fingers down to the cam gear through the lifter block bores!
You do not have to remove lifter blocks.
Why can you not understand that?
It is so simple.
KEEP UP TO DATE.
Now, according to your post, you have to use the, what you call, 1936 HD method for cam end play check.
But then you use a "know what you are doing by feel" gear lash method.
I hope this helps you see how ridiculously hypocritical you are being.
You do not have to remove lifter blocks.
Why can you not understand that?
It is so simple.
KEEP UP TO DATE.
Now, according to your post, you have to use the, what you call, 1936 HD method for cam end play check.
But then you use a "know what you are doing by feel" gear lash method.
I hope this helps you see how ridiculously hypocritical you are being.
WTF does what year it is now have to do with the proceedure that has been used for decades. Your right you DO NOT have to remove the blocks to CHANGE the cam, but you DO have to remove them to set it up properly, if you'd ever done this job you would know that.
Evos have been out of production for 11 years, nobody is developing NEW set up and install proceedures for them. Tried and trued methods son! Go ask any REAL HD mechanic, dealer or indy, how to set up a cam, then get back to us, OK sunshine!
Last edited by hog-doc; Mar 19, 2010 at 07:25 PM.
Speaking of gear lash, I have just installed a new cam into my bike, set my end play to .011", new Torrington inner, lifters, push rods etc.... I did as you just said and checked my cam gear lash while lifter blocks were out, as that seemed to be the only way(IMHO) to get at the cam gear with cover installed. My question is......why so LITTLE gear lash on the cam gear???? I realize that the gear is not gonna expand much.....but if I recall the spec is .000"-.0015"......thats tight......lol. Just wondering if you could shed some light, to me it seems tight....I have been building diesels in heavy equipment for quite awhile and have never seen anything calling for "0" tolerance.....but then again, this is the first time into a Harley, and I have found that they have ALL their own little rules and such......LOL. Have a good day everyone!!!!
You do not use the pins after "feel".
That is rubbish.
After decades of professional wrenching, it never ceases to amaze me how some folk can get it so wrong, AND THEN TRY TO GIVE ADVICE.
You do not need to remove the lifter blocks to set the end play, and .010 is not tight.
I have changed many.
I will not be calling you any names or pretending that I know anything about you.
Thats another difference between us.
STAY AWAY FROM MY LAWNMOWER.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
You do not use the pins after "feel".
That is rubbish.
After decades of professional wrenching, it never ceases to amaze me how some folk can get it so wrong, AND THEN TRY TO GIVE ADVICE.
You do not need to remove the lifter blocks to set the end play, and .010 is not tight.
I have changed many.
I will not be calling you any names or pretending that I know anything about you.
Thats another difference between us.
STAY AWAY FROM MY LAWNMOWER.
DUDE!! You know, you dont have to call people names to be a dick.. Everyone's got a different way of doing things and just because its not the way you do it, doesnt make them wrong.. Do you "need" to remove the lifters to check end play, no.. Can you remove them and check it that way if it makes you feel that you've done a better job?? Sure, why not.. Can you get close by feel?? I suppose, if you have several gears to try.. I just used the pins and it worked out fine for me.. To come out and purposly slam people's way of doing things is purely argumentative and pointless.. You would get much more respect if you would simply state the way you would do things and not slam others.. Just a tip... Right now, your comments are alienating you and causing people to totally disregard your input all together..


