Dreaded click question
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,022
Likes: 12,540
From: South Carolina
The push button on the solenoid is not the cure to all starter problems, if the solenoid contacts are bad, you can push that button until the cows come home.
Check the solenoid contacts in addition to all connections.
Check the solenoid contacts in addition to all connections.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: pa
By Request, How I Added The Extra Relay.
First off, buy a relay at the auto parts store. I used one that is the same as the regular start relay, located under my right side cover, bolted to the oil tank. You can get the part number off the old relay and have them cross it. It's a common relay and not expensive. Two types are available, one that has a screw mount like the original and one without. Get the screw mount one. Relay sockets are available as well, or you can use wire flag type connectors and push them on the relay terminals directly. Pull the seat off. Mount the relay to the inside of the left panel using a screw that holds the rear brake MC reservoir on. Run a heavy guage wire from the starter solenoid post that goes to the battery, like 12ga. Put a fuse in the line, like 20 amp or so. You can get a inline fuse holder for the newer automotive flag fuses at radio shack. Connect the other end from the fuse to a normally open post of the relay. Connect the opposite post (the one that connects to the normally open one when the relay is energized) to a heavy wire running down to the small wire post on the starter solenoid. Leave the original small wire there too. Now you only have to energize the new relay. Run a wire (can be smaller, like 16 ga smaller if you wanted) from the starter relay coil to the coil of the new relay. You can run both sides, or one side and ground the other, whatever you want. This way, when the starter relay is energized by the rest of the bike (push button, etc.), both relays engage in parallel and both relays put +12V on the solenoid coil. The new relay puts a full +12V without any of the dozen electrical connections and little bits of wire in the way. It is fused so that if something bad happens, the fuse blows and not the battery (or wire, more likely). When you're testing it, have the battery cables somewhat loose on the battery so you can pull them and stop the whole system should you have screwed up the wiring somewhere.
First off, buy a relay at the auto parts store. I used one that is the same as the regular start relay, located under my right side cover, bolted to the oil tank. You can get the part number off the old relay and have them cross it. It's a common relay and not expensive. Two types are available, one that has a screw mount like the original and one without. Get the screw mount one. Relay sockets are available as well, or you can use wire flag type connectors and push them on the relay terminals directly. Pull the seat off. Mount the relay to the inside of the left panel using a screw that holds the rear brake MC reservoir on. Run a heavy guage wire from the starter solenoid post that goes to the battery, like 12ga. Put a fuse in the line, like 20 amp or so. You can get a inline fuse holder for the newer automotive flag fuses at radio shack. Connect the other end from the fuse to a normally open post of the relay. Connect the opposite post (the one that connects to the normally open one when the relay is energized) to a heavy wire running down to the small wire post on the starter solenoid. Leave the original small wire there too. Now you only have to energize the new relay. Run a wire (can be smaller, like 16 ga smaller if you wanted) from the starter relay coil to the coil of the new relay. You can run both sides, or one side and ground the other, whatever you want. This way, when the starter relay is energized by the rest of the bike (push button, etc.), both relays engage in parallel and both relays put +12V on the solenoid coil. The new relay puts a full +12V without any of the dozen electrical connections and little bits of wire in the way. It is fused so that if something bad happens, the fuse blows and not the battery (or wire, more likely). When you're testing it, have the battery cables somewhat loose on the battery so you can pull them and stop the whole system should you have screwed up the wiring somewhere.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Wilmore,Ky
Does anyone know of the best starter to put on a 93 wide glide, as in the best brand. I have went through to relays and four solenoids. Im tired of fooling around with it. Also it keeps burning the contacts in the solenoid enough where they are burnt and pitted out, is there anyway to slow the wear and tear down on them. I know there going to get rough but a new one around every two or three months is a little much, Thanks
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 842
Likes: 47
From: New Hartford CT
New Starter - Dreaded Click
I have a relatively new starter and battery (both installed in March). All was well for a while. Lately I've been having more and more occurrences of the 'dreaded click', but only when the engine is hot; i.e. it's never a problem when the bike is cold and sitting in the garage or the parking lot at work. But when I ride it a couple of hours on a hot summer day, shut it down and then go to restart (say at a gas station, or after going into a convenience store for a Dr. Pepper), I have the problem. It seems to be happening more frequently, too. Yesterday when I got home after being out most of the day (and having two 'dreaded click' episodes), I put it in the garage and immediately tried to start it. Click. A couple of hours later, after cooling down, it started right up. What is the relationship between the heat and the click?
I've also noticed that when the click happens, the voltmeter goes right down to 0, although I never paid enough attention to notice what the voltmeter does when it is starting normally.
I've also noticed that when the click happens, the voltmeter goes right down to 0, although I never paid enough attention to notice what the voltmeter does when it is starting normally.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
Likes: 3,084
From: NW AR
The volt meter will go to zero when starting normally as well, as the start/accessory relay switches that circuit off when starting.
Back when I had the Dreaded Click (before my extra relay mod), mine would do it mostly when hot, just as you describe. Stop and gas up, go to start, click.... It makes it a biatch to track down if it isn't doing it when you want to diagnose the problem.
Back when I had the Dreaded Click (before my extra relay mod), mine would do it mostly when hot, just as you describe. Stop and gas up, go to start, click.... It makes it a biatch to track down if it isn't doing it when you want to diagnose the problem.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
My 87 FLHTC was acting the same way, only when hot. I tried DR Hess's suggestion of the two relay set up. It still did it. I re-built my solenoid and it seemed to fix it. You said you have a new starter and battery. Did the new starter come with a new solenoid? I am not to familiar with the 95 style starters. If not re-build or replace your solenoid. If so I would do the dual relay set up. Its cheap and pretty easy to do. I would do the dual relay thing anyhow, it good insurance.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 494
From: Richmond, VA
I just did the solenoid rebuild. I was also having "click" issues. The rebuild kit seems to have fixed it. Granted, its only been a week, but I have riding the bike every single day since I did the solenoid rebuild including a 300 mile trip on Sunday. Its starting better than ever.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 842
Likes: 47
From: New Hartford CT
Dual Relay Confusion
I'm having a little trouble understanding this completely:
Excuse my ignorance, but what is a 'normally open post of the relay'? Am I right in thinking that the relay has five posts? How do I know which is which?
Then comes the part about running a wire from the 'starter relay coil' to the other relay's coil. What part of a five post relay is considered the 'coil'? What does 'both sides' mean? Obviously I know zilch about relays.
I looked some more at pics of these things, and it appears that the standard connector fits onto three of the posts on the relay. So what are these three posts/wires on the connector as opposed to the other two?
Connect the other end from the fuse to a normally open post of the relay. Connect the opposite post (the one that connects to the normally open one when the relay is energized) to a heavy wire running down to the small wire post on the starter solenoid. Leave the original small wire there too. Now you only have to energize the new relay. Run a wire (can be smaller, like 16 ga smaller if you wanted) from the starter relay coil to the coil of the new relay. You can run both sides, or one side and ground the other, whatever you want.
Then comes the part about running a wire from the 'starter relay coil' to the other relay's coil. What part of a five post relay is considered the 'coil'? What does 'both sides' mean? Obviously I know zilch about relays.
I looked some more at pics of these things, and it appears that the standard connector fits onto three of the posts on the relay. So what are these three posts/wires on the connector as opposed to the other two?
Last edited by rivercityslim; Aug 12, 2010 at 01:16 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
Likes: 3,084
From: NW AR
Sorry, Slim. I just think of it in terms of how it electrically/mechanically is. This is a pretty good writeup on relays:
http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pa...lay_basics.htm
The pins on your existing starter relay labeled 85 and 86 go to the relay coil. 86 is grounded, so you want to run the wire from 85 on the existing relay to, say for simplicity, 85 on the new relay, and ground 86 on the new relay.
Pin 30 is the switched leg and pin 87 would be the normally open. So, run a big wire from the battery (by way of the solenoid lug that connects to the battery cable) to pin 87 on the new relay, and run a wire from pin 30 to the solenoid, connecting to the tan wire.
Again, be ready to quickly disconnect the battery the first time you push the start button, in case you screwed it up.
http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pa...lay_basics.htm
The pins on your existing starter relay labeled 85 and 86 go to the relay coil. 86 is grounded, so you want to run the wire from 85 on the existing relay to, say for simplicity, 85 on the new relay, and ground 86 on the new relay.
Pin 30 is the switched leg and pin 87 would be the normally open. So, run a big wire from the battery (by way of the solenoid lug that connects to the battery cable) to pin 87 on the new relay, and run a wire from pin 30 to the solenoid, connecting to the tan wire.
Again, be ready to quickly disconnect the battery the first time you push the start button, in case you screwed it up.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: NW FL
I've actually had the click for about two years now. The bike has always started on the second button push though - i.e., it will click at me the first push, then I let off and immediately push it in again and the starter works as advertised. I figured it was a bad connection somewhere, but was just too lazy to fix it. Guess I need to get that solenoid rebuild kit.