Dreaded click question
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,323
Likes: 3,868
From: Upstate New York
I'm going with a new starter anyway, given the age of the original. However, that's a few weeks off. Meanwhile, I'm going to make one more attempt to change the most worn contact (+) and center plunger-if I can modify some tools to reach them with the starter on the bike.
If I have to remove the starter, I'll just opt for a new one, as the labor is the same, and, after 17 years, baby deserves it.
If I have to remove the starter, I'll just opt for a new one, as the labor is the same, and, after 17 years, baby deserves it.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 2
From: central Mississippi
You might search the forum for the name GaltJunk. He posted awhile back about installing an extra relay under the seat. It was simple instructions. You can get the relay at autozone for about 6 bucks. I installed one on my FLH a couple of months ago per his instructions and haven't had a "clicking" problem since.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
I belive that Dr. Hess posted the instructions for the extra relay install. If your contacts on the solenoid are as bad as you said it probaly will not help. I did it on mine ,but it didn't fix it. I left it hooked up for insurance. A local Indy shop told me that they have done it to alot of older Evos. Not just for starter issuses but voltage drop thru all the connectors. Here is Dr Hess's instructions. I saved them in my Bike repair file. The Dr. deserves all credit.
Extra starter relay
First off, buy a relay at the auto parts store. I used one that is the same as the regular start relay, located under my right side cover, bolted to the oil tank. You can get the part number off the old relay and have them cross it. It's a common relay and not expensive. Two types are available, one that has a screw mount like the original and one without. Get the screw mount one. Relay sockets are available as well, or you can use wire flag type connectors and push them on the relay terminals directly. Pull the seat off.
Mount the relay to the inside of the left panel using a screw that holds the rear brake MC reservoir on. Run a heavy guage wire from the starter solenoid post that goes to the battery, like 12ga.
Put a fuse in the line, like 20 amp or so. You can get a inline fuse holder for the newer automotive flag fuses at radio shack.
Connect the other end from the fuse to a normally open post of the relay.
Connect the opposite post (the one that connects to the normally open one when the relay is energized) to a heavy wire running down to the small wire post on the starter solenoid. Leave the original small wire there too.
Now you only have to energize the new relay. Run a wire (can be smaller, like 16 ga smaller if you wanted) from the starter relay coil to the coil of the new relay. You can run both sides, or one side and ground the other, whatever you want.
This way, when the starter relay is energized by the rest of the bike (push button, etc.), both relays engage in parallel and both relays put +12V on the solenoid coil. The new relay puts a full +12V without any of the dozen electrical connections and little bits of wire in the way.
It is fused so that if something bad happens, the fuse blows and not the battery (or wire, more likely). When you're testing it, have the battery cables somewhat loose on the battery so you can pull them and stop the whole system should you have screwed up the wiring somewhere.
Connect the Green wire that was originally connected to the starter to 86.
Add a wire from 85 to ground.
Connect a wire from the positive side of the battery to 30.
30 is connected to 87a when the coil is not charged so don't connect anything to it.
30 will be connected to 87 when you press the starter button, so connect a wire from there to where the green wire was originally connected to the starter.
This will provide full battery voltage to the starter to engage the solenoid.
Extra starter relay
First off, buy a relay at the auto parts store. I used one that is the same as the regular start relay, located under my right side cover, bolted to the oil tank. You can get the part number off the old relay and have them cross it. It's a common relay and not expensive. Two types are available, one that has a screw mount like the original and one without. Get the screw mount one. Relay sockets are available as well, or you can use wire flag type connectors and push them on the relay terminals directly. Pull the seat off.
Mount the relay to the inside of the left panel using a screw that holds the rear brake MC reservoir on. Run a heavy guage wire from the starter solenoid post that goes to the battery, like 12ga.
Put a fuse in the line, like 20 amp or so. You can get a inline fuse holder for the newer automotive flag fuses at radio shack.
Connect the other end from the fuse to a normally open post of the relay.
Connect the opposite post (the one that connects to the normally open one when the relay is energized) to a heavy wire running down to the small wire post on the starter solenoid. Leave the original small wire there too.
Now you only have to energize the new relay. Run a wire (can be smaller, like 16 ga smaller if you wanted) from the starter relay coil to the coil of the new relay. You can run both sides, or one side and ground the other, whatever you want.
This way, when the starter relay is energized by the rest of the bike (push button, etc.), both relays engage in parallel and both relays put +12V on the solenoid coil. The new relay puts a full +12V without any of the dozen electrical connections and little bits of wire in the way.
It is fused so that if something bad happens, the fuse blows and not the battery (or wire, more likely). When you're testing it, have the battery cables somewhat loose on the battery so you can pull them and stop the whole system should you have screwed up the wiring somewhere.
Connect the Green wire that was originally connected to the starter to 86.
Add a wire from 85 to ground.
Connect a wire from the positive side of the battery to 30.
30 is connected to 87a when the coil is not charged so don't connect anything to it.
30 will be connected to 87 when you press the starter button, so connect a wire from there to where the green wire was originally connected to the starter.
This will provide full battery voltage to the starter to engage the solenoid.
Last edited by BB4xl; Oct 2, 2010 at 07:20 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
Likes: 3,084
From: NW AR
Just as a note, the extra relay mod bypasses the around-the-bike-twice, and through a dozen connectors that is OEM and instead feeds full battery power to the solenoid, pulling it in fully and ending the Dreaded Click. If the contacts inside the solenoid are burnt or worn down to nothing, it won't help you because that is a different circuit, the battery to starter motor circuit.
Anyway, glad my notes help people.
Anyway, glad my notes help people.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 2
From: central Mississippi
I should have read the entire post. I just read the last page. I see where Dr. Hess has already covered the relay installation. That dreaded click was the biggest headache I have had with this dresser all year until I added the extra relay. It defininetly fixed the problem. That solenoid needs the full 12 volts of juice to it. As stated above, after running through all the wiring and connectors, the battery has lost a little umph by the time it reaches the solenoid with the original setup. That relay was the best 7 dollars I ever spent on this bike.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
Well that SUCKs. I know how you feel. I did the dual relays. It worked good for maybe only a week. Then CLICK.
Last edited by BB4xl; Nov 19, 2010 at 07:21 PM.
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 309
Likes: 2
From: Tegucigalpa
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 43
From: NJ
My ignition switch is wired so that the first click to the right alows the engine to start but no lights are on, the second click to the right turns on the lights and you can also crank the engine. It's sort of like your 4 wheeler, you don't start that with all your lights on. Works like a charm for me, all those lights draw down the current. My starter will click once in awhile with the lights on but never when they are off.
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