Recently rebuilt my engine....can't get carb set
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: NW Ohio
Recently rebuilt my engine....can't get carb set
I recently rebuilt my engine...
Bored .10 over
New .10 os Harley pistons, rings
New tappets
New Crane Fireball 316-2b cam
New seals
New spring, seats, guides, valves (Manley)
Added Torque Cones
Same Carb (S&S Super E)
Same Intake (KuryAkyn Hypercharger)
Can't get engine to idle or run smoothly.
Adjusted ignition timing and it starts much better and has no overheat issues. Plugs look clean and nice.
Adjusted carb from factory recommended settings 3 times now
Still getting a slight piff through intake occasionally when I have rode 20+ miles, it only does this when running at a constant speed at 2000+ RPMs
Bike ran smooth before rebuild....could it be the cam....intake leak...?
Little more info, 84 FLHTC 1340, open exhaust (like before)
Had to do a rebuild because of a destroyed rear exhaust tappet roller and damaged cam (were both factory), previous owner never cleaned or replaced the tappet screen in 34,000+ miles
I have 500+ miles on rebuild....any suggestions would be a great help.
Thanks,
Shawn
Bored .10 over
New .10 os Harley pistons, rings
New tappets
New Crane Fireball 316-2b cam
New seals
New spring, seats, guides, valves (Manley)
Added Torque Cones
Same Carb (S&S Super E)
Same Intake (KuryAkyn Hypercharger)
Can't get engine to idle or run smoothly.
Adjusted ignition timing and it starts much better and has no overheat issues. Plugs look clean and nice.
Adjusted carb from factory recommended settings 3 times now
Still getting a slight piff through intake occasionally when I have rode 20+ miles, it only does this when running at a constant speed at 2000+ RPMs
Bike ran smooth before rebuild....could it be the cam....intake leak...?
Little more info, 84 FLHTC 1340, open exhaust (like before)
Had to do a rebuild because of a destroyed rear exhaust tappet roller and damaged cam (were both factory), previous owner never cleaned or replaced the tappet screen in 34,000+ miles
I have 500+ miles on rebuild....any suggestions would be a great help.
Thanks,
Shawn
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 204
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My buddy runs a s&s on his shovel and had to go up 4 sizes from what s&s recommended on his main to get it to not stutter on hard acceleration when he went to drag pipes. Also try spraying some brake/carb cleaner around your intake and carb flanges, if the idle goes up you have a air leak.
Last edited by the_ogre25; Apr 30, 2010 at 10:07 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: NW Ohio
Thanks, I'll try the cleaner.
It had no problems idling or running smooth prior to rebuilding the engine. I had excellent throttle response before, too.
Could the new cam cause that much of a change in the carb?
I had 5000+ miles on that carb and it ran great the day I tore it down....just the tappets sounded like @ss....well with the mostly missing roller and all.
Never changed the pipes, just added torque cones because of the baffles being non-existent prior to and even now.
It had no problems idling or running smooth prior to rebuilding the engine. I had excellent throttle response before, too.
Could the new cam cause that much of a change in the carb?
I had 5000+ miles on that carb and it ran great the day I tore it down....just the tappets sounded like @ss....well with the mostly missing roller and all.
Never changed the pipes, just added torque cones because of the baffles being non-existent prior to and even now.
Last edited by dragonfire1970; Apr 30, 2010 at 10:38 AM. Reason: added a few more notes
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
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From: Norfolk, VA
What size Intermediate Jet are you using?
A .031 is a safe start with 1.5 turns out on the idle mixture screw...Adjust the mixture screw as needed to dial in the carb to get rid of any hiccups (pops) thru the carb throat..
S&S reccomends shutting off the accelerator pump when tuning/dialing in the carb..Fuel getting dumped into the carb throat via the pump can cover up a lean fuel/air mixture.
A .031 is a safe start with 1.5 turns out on the idle mixture screw...Adjust the mixture screw as needed to dial in the carb to get rid of any hiccups (pops) thru the carb throat..
S&S reccomends shutting off the accelerator pump when tuning/dialing in the carb..Fuel getting dumped into the carb throat via the pump can cover up a lean fuel/air mixture.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: NW Ohio
Checked the intake manifold using the starting fluid method....everything ok there. Thanks again for the tip TheOgre
Checked the vacuum hoses and VOE to make sure it is connected....all ok there, thanks Miacycles
Not sure what size the Intermediate Jet is SportsterBob, I know that whatever it was before I rebuilt the engine, it was working great prior to that.
It ran very smoothly and I never had any problem dialing in the carb prior to tear down.
This is driving me FREEKIN Crazzzzy!!!!
Mechanically I believe everything is good....not sure about everything else.
Checked the vacuum hoses and VOE to make sure it is connected....all ok there, thanks Miacycles
Not sure what size the Intermediate Jet is SportsterBob, I know that whatever it was before I rebuilt the engine, it was working great prior to that.
It ran very smoothly and I never had any problem dialing in the carb prior to tear down.
This is driving me FREEKIN Crazzzzy!!!!
Mechanically I believe everything is good....not sure about everything else.
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From: NW Ohio
Original pushrods, tested on a granite plate for straightness. None were out more than .5 tenths.
All cam/crank marks lined up like OEM service manual showed.
cam to crank to breather gear dots all aligned. It would crash and/or not run if it was out with my understanding....right?
Would it run if I got it rear cylinder TDC instead of front cyl TDC?
Can't check that without destroying another gasket.....but it may be worth the few bucks to dbl check.
On my list today....check front cyl TDC cam/crank/breather witness mark alignment.
Also going to detach VOE and see if it stumbles.....maybe it died?!?
I will post my results later today.
All cam/crank marks lined up like OEM service manual showed.
cam to crank to breather gear dots all aligned. It would crash and/or not run if it was out with my understanding....right?
Would it run if I got it rear cylinder TDC instead of front cyl TDC?
Can't check that without destroying another gasket.....but it may be worth the few bucks to dbl check.
On my list today....check front cyl TDC cam/crank/breather witness mark alignment.
Also going to detach VOE and see if it stumbles.....maybe it died?!?
I will post my results later today.
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From: NC USA
Long time ago I had one doing pretty much "that." It was a stock ignition and long story short, it'd had a cam changed and was clocked about 20 degrees off at the timing plate in the nosecone. Strange thing was, the timing checked correct with a light, sorta - it would jump around a lot. Only way I caught it was when I moved the plate a tiny bit either direction, the timing mark went away - far away. I've never taken the time to understand how it could show correct timing on the flywheel with a timing light while the timing plate was so far off, but that was the deal. There are 3 notches in the nosecone forming 2 points behind the adjusting "V" of the timing plate and this one was clockwise of the far left one. Generally, they are closer toward the far right (counterclockwise) when timed correctly.
With the hold down screws barely snug so you can turn it easily try starting it and lock it at fast idle. Rotate the timing plate counterclockwise and see if it "comes in" by the sound of the engine, then go back with a timing light to make sure it's correct. Clockwise is advance and counterclockwise is retard for the ignition timing. It could be off either way but that's where I'd start considering you're confident there are no intake leaks.
And if by chance you marked the timing plate position on the nosecone before teardown, cams are timed differently so that mark may not be where the plate needs to be in relation to the cam for correct ignition timing.