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89's don't have those. i would replace the main breaker and the other 3 breakers that are under the speedo/tach.
my bad, I saw the '99 in the op's sig line and thought that was the one he was asking about. Still, if the ignition cuts out, could be the kill switch, the primary side of the coil, or, as Dr Hess pointed out the ignition cable to the nose cone. Sounds like a pinched wire, works sometimes but vibration causes an open.
the 3 breakers under the speedo/ tach are 15 amp. the main is 30 amp. i have an 85 and i just replaced those breakers. i got them at a napa auto parts store. they had to order them and it took a couple of days to get them. i think they were $8 each.
On my 89 flhtp I'm getting an engine cutout every once in a while and while still moving after rpm's zero out and motor dies I try hitting starter switch on bar and get nothing then sometimes I get the started turning right away. Sometimes on the hiway it will cut out and while slowing down it will give a back fire and start back up again and die then start again, so it doesn't die out for very long. Today I was cruising hiway at a steady 70 mph and lites and stereo on and it did it again. Seems to me it has to do with perhaps a circuit breaker or one of the wires in line with the starter button because I get starter rolling pushing the button and sometimes not. I did install the new stereo this winter.
Any ideas guys
The power to actuate the starter relay comes off the ignition circuit, however the voltage that relay actually sends to the starter solenoid is drawn off the accessory circuit. I'd suspect you have a power problem on the ignition circuit, most likely at the breaker. If it were a short, the breaker would "open" and it'd be dead until it reset. Or you could have a bad or corroded connection that will cause heat and that alone will trip a breaker or at times simply loose voltage intermittently. So pull the outer fairing and start checking for compromised connections and if you want to replace the breaker, there's nothing special about them except the terminals are shorter than most replacements you find at a parts store.
my bad, I saw the '99 in the op's sig line and thought that was the one he was asking about. Still, if the ignition cuts out, could be the kill switch, the primary side of the coil, or, as Dr Hess pointed out the ignition cable to the nose cone. Sounds like a pinched wire, works sometimes but vibration causes an open.
Gotta ask again, if I unplugged the pickup wires ( which I did ) would that not act the same as a pinched or seperated wire which I would think would not allow the power to the starter button on handle bar? When I look at the wiring diagram from the handle bar switch it comes from starter relay which of course then goes to starter motor. .... So yes Rufus and Bagga the circuits would appear to be a good place to start.
Last edited by RidemyEVO; May 2, 2010 at 09:49 AM.
Gotta ask again, if I unplugged the pickup wires ( which I did ) would that not act the same as a pinched or seperated wire which I would think would not allow the power to the starter button on handle bar? When I look at the wiring diagram from the handle bar switch it comes from starter relay which of course then goes to starter motor. .... So yes Rufus and Bagga the circuits would appear to be a good place to start.
Ignition power comes from the main switch goes thru the ign circuit breaker, then to the kill switch, over to the starter button and the coil. So if the kill switch is off, there is no power going to the coil or the starter button. The module gets it's power from (and at) the coil connection and the module sends power to the timing pickup (nosecone). If I'm remembering correctly, the power side of the coil uses a double spade tab with 2 slide-on on connectors, one comes from the kill switch and the other goes to the module.
So if the pickup is unplugged, it has no effect on the rest of the ign/start circuits. Need to check anyway since you had the engine out, I'd look at the connections at the coil also. A totally bad connection there could trip the breaker ocassionally and simply cause a dead spark intermittently as well. And the "no starter" condition would have to be the switch/breaker/kill switch circuit to the relay which is under the right side cover and again, anything along the "line" tripping the ign breaker would cause the starter to be dead. Also, a bad kill switch can do all that too.
Excellent explanation and jives exactley with what wire diagram shows but in a simpler form. I got a new set of progressive 416's to install anyway so seeing as bags gotta come off I might as well check the side cover first. I had my dirty paws all over this ride this past winter so the problem could be anywhere along the LINE. When I put the tank back on I did strap a wire under there though which could be coming from the coil. Thanks Guys
the breakers are a good place to start because it's the cheapest. i replaced everything in the ignition circuit, the last thing was the ign. breaker, that was the problem.
I got the breakers today and last nite pulled the bat wing off. Nothing really jumped out at me other than the fact that when I soldered the stereo wire to the old stereo power wire which was taped up so I assumed was solder to the bigger red constant power wire to my amazement I found that the red wire simply had a 3/16" piece of insulation cut away and the stereo wire was only wrapped around it metal wire to metal wire. Yesterday while out for a ride I found that my stereo was loosing power especially when I turned up the volume, so I will solder them together proper today, so is it possible this could have caused any type of surge to kick out the breaker?
Also when I had the test lite out I put the probe on one side of the breaker and got power but when I tried the other side( stud ) I got nothing, is it normal to show power on only one side?
Also when I had the test lite out I put the probe on one side of the breaker and got power but when I tried the other side( stud ) I got nothing, is it normal to show power on only one side?
Nope. Even if they are installed backward (load vs line) they should have voltage on both sides if either is powered. So either the breaker was tripped, bad or corroded on one side. The constant unswitched (memory) wire is tiny and will not carry the radio operating current well enough. A hard bass note and/or high volume will dim things. There should be a separate wire for operating voltage that is tied into the acc circuit.
Ok just double checked and it was actually the bigger yellow wire that went to the constant on voltage and the small red wire I beleive went to power from ignition being turned on. My 18 yr old son wired it so I'm kinda following him.
On another note, I don't want to involve this thread with my possibly other problem so if you'd like to take a gander I'd appreciate any thoughts. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...ml#post6660556
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