Cam Bearing failure signs?
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Joined: May 2005
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The INA cam bearing does not automatically fail. In a stock engine that isn't abused, it might never fail. But if I was going to be proactive and replace the bearing with the much better Torrington, I would definitely dump the stock cam. A cam like what I have, the Andrews EV13, does not make a lot of noise, nor does it hurt fuel mileage (as long as you don't twist the throttle a lot more than you did with the stock cam), but it does make a very satisfying increase in power when you need it. Or want it.
If you press on the stock cam gear, you won't have any increase in gear noise.
If you press on the stock cam gear, you won't have any increase in gear noise.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Hallsville, Tx.
One thing of note. When reusing the oem gear on an Andrews cam You'll need to index the gear so you can press it on accurately as Harley does not mark their gears and cams, at least they didn't in my case. I ended up talking to an Andrews tech guy and he told me that the andrews cam and gear were indexed, and that their index mark, if I recall correctly, ( you better check yourself) was 180 degrees from the outer timing mark (not the breather mark, the gear to gear timing mark). So I pulled the stock gear off on a press at work and scribed a line on the backside from the timing mark to make my own indexing mark. If heated to 180 degrees F the gear will go on the cam easily and can be moved little to line up properly. Sorry if I went off topic but I don't know that I ever ran across this info in my numerous searches on cam swaps. The tech guy at Andrews was surprised that my stock gear wasn't indexed so this may be unusual.
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From: Middle of Kansas
Hey Indian Larry; Thanks for that info. I may go ahead and do the cam when I change the brg. What would be a good mild cam for a 99 FXSTC, that will give good torque down low, and won't destroy lifters? I rarely ride over 70, and do a lot of 55 to 60 on the back roads. Also, did you change to adjustable push rods, and what would you go with? S&S are a little pricey, but they look like they would do a good job. Thanks again for the info. Jim
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Well, I'm a big fan of the EV13. I don't ever race anyone, and actually didn't mind the stock cam in my FXRS. It seemed to have plenty of power and when I would get near 100mph, there seemed to be plenty of throttle left. But after a lifter failed and scored the cam lobe, I decided to go with the 13. It's always advertised as a bagger cam, meant for heavier bikes, but I figured it would just be that much better with my lighter bike. And I'll tell you, now that I know how the Evo was meant to run, I could never go back to the stock cam. I can still ride it just like I did before, it idles fine, doesn't need higher octane fuel, still gets good to better fuel mileage... But when I feel like zipping around someone at highway speed, what a pleasure it is to have the power and response it has now. It's so much better that I had to be careful in some situations, like accelerating out of country intersection right angle turns in the spring when there is still sand on the road from winter. The extra power makes the back end want to scoot out from under you much more easily. The EV13 makes its best power in the low to midrange, but much more power than the stock N cam at all rpm. Because of its extra exhaust duration it helps keep the engine oil cooler, not that an Evo needs much help with that.
I also went with Crane lifters, just don't trust the H-D lifters even though the newer ones are supposed to be much improved, and SE EZ install pushrods, which my mechanic recommended. My choice would have been Andrews, but he'd had good luck with the SE. Make sure you get the EZ install or Kwikee install, the kind that adjust enough that the rocker boxes don't need to come off. Some adjustables still require rocker box removal.
I also went with Crane lifters, just don't trust the H-D lifters even though the newer ones are supposed to be much improved, and SE EZ install pushrods, which my mechanic recommended. My choice would have been Andrews, but he'd had good luck with the SE. Make sure you get the EZ install or Kwikee install, the kind that adjust enough that the rocker boxes don't need to come off. Some adjustables still require rocker box removal.
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From: Middle of Kansas
Thanks for the info again mp. It is very much appreciated. The EV-13 sounds like what I would want also, along with the SE push rods. So far I don't have any leaks in the top end, so I would not want to take it apart, and also a lot less work to replace cam parts. Thanks again. It is great to get hands on experience from people like you who have done this stuff.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Upstate New York
One point to check when replacing your pushrods with adjustables is to check them for straightness. The SE pushrods (and most adjustables) are made from a tube and a threaded socket brazed together, and they are not always assembled dead straight, but may have a slight wobble you can see when you roll the pushrod on a table top or between two straightedges. The adjustables are thicker that the stock rods, and if they are not perfectly straight, they can rub on the covers intermittantly as they rotate in operation. This is especially likely on the front exhaust position, as this pushrod runs at the greatest angle. If you have a choice, make sure the straightest pushrod is installed here.
When I put SE pushrods ih my engine I had an intermittant oil leak at the base of the front exhaust pushrod tube that drove me and the dealer's service department nuts. Most of the time, it was fine, but every so often it would blow oil all over the motor, then stop leaking again. One day The service manage and I were watching the engine idle, and noticed the pushrod tube start rocking back and forth, then stop for a minute, then start rocking again. Turned out the leak was caused by a bent pushrod rocking the cover enough to break the o-ring seal at the base of the cover!
The dealer was nice enough to let me open two sets of SE pushrods and check them for straightness using their flywheel alignment fixture. I manged to find 4 "straight" rods out of 8 I examined. I marked the straightest one and installed that one in the front exhaust. Problem solved.
When I put SE pushrods ih my engine I had an intermittant oil leak at the base of the front exhaust pushrod tube that drove me and the dealer's service department nuts. Most of the time, it was fine, but every so often it would blow oil all over the motor, then stop leaking again. One day The service manage and I were watching the engine idle, and noticed the pushrod tube start rocking back and forth, then stop for a minute, then start rocking again. Turned out the leak was caused by a bent pushrod rocking the cover enough to break the o-ring seal at the base of the cover!
The dealer was nice enough to let me open two sets of SE pushrods and check them for straightness using their flywheel alignment fixture. I manged to find 4 "straight" rods out of 8 I examined. I marked the straightest one and installed that one in the front exhaust. Problem solved.
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