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I bought a tach on ebay (non HD) supposed to work with dual fire ignition. The RPM signal is to come from the negative side of the coil but my coil has 3 wires. A blue/orange that is #2 coil and #1 ECM and marked front on the wiring diagram and a Yellow/black that is coil #1 and #19 ECM and marked back on the wiring diagram. Then there is a Yellow/green that is +12v. The wiring diagram also says "non wasted spark" on the coil drawing. Does this mean mine is a single fired ignition? I know that I wouldn't hook to +12v for a signal, and I'm assuming that front and back refer to the cylinders. Would it make any difference which I hook the tach up to? I see in the other 1996 wiring diagrams that the models that have tachs have a pink wire for the signal but I could not see where that might go to the coil on that drawing. I like the service manual but it has all the touring models, as well as, carbureted and FI, making it kind of a bich to wade through. Any help appreciated. Maybe not posted to the correct forum but I know I'll get less grief here.
Added: I had a wee bit too much "milk" with my cake last night and am feeling the effects right now! I would guess that since each cylinder has it's own coil wire that it is single fire so I need to get a signal for the tach elsewhere. Any thoughts on this?
Last edited by 96roadking; Jun 5, 2010 at 03:21 PM.
what brand of ignition are you running??? Contact the manufacture. We had a customer buy a tach off of E-Bay and couldn't get it to work even with an adapter that was supposed to cure his problems. Hope you don't have similar problems.
I have the original HD ignition. The Carbureted models have the pink wires, normal dual fire I'd reckon, but mine does not. In looking through the wiring diagram, I can't find anything that looks like a tach signal. Sorry, mine is a 1996 FLHRI.
I have the original HD ignition. The Carbureted models have the pink wires, normal dual fire I'd reckon, but mine does not. In looking through the wiring diagram, I can't find anything that looks like a tach signal. Sorry, mine is a 1996 FLHRI.
Hmmm... RKs don't come with tachs, so there's no pink wire. However, my book shows the tach lead (pink/blue) on a 1996 FLHTC-I coming from pin 5 of the ECM into junction 8, then the pink wire from there to junction 108, then a pink wire from there to the tach. So ECM pin 5 drives the tach.
The 1996 FLTRI diagram shows the exact same pink/blue wire coming from pin 5 of the ECM going to junction 8, but it terminates there - there's no pink wire coming out of junction 8.
So, I would think you could simply run a wire (let's say, a pink one?) from junction 8, connecting the blue/pink wire from the ECM in junction 8 to your tach, and it should work just like the FLHTC-I does. You could also just splice into the blue/pink wire from the ECM with a wire going directly to your tach.
Hmmm... RKs don't come with tachs, so there's no pink wire. However, my book shows the tach lead (pink/blue) on a 1996 FLHTC-I coming from pin 5 of the ECM into junction 8, then the pink wire from there to junction 108, then a pink wire from there to the tach. So ECM pin 5 drives the tach.
The 1996 FLTRI diagram shows the exact same pink/blue wire coming from pin 5 of the ECM going to junction 8, but it terminates there - there's no pink wire coming out of junction 8.
So, I would think you could simply run a wire (let's say, a pink one?) from junction 8, connecting the blue/pink wire from the ECM in junction 8 to your tach, and it should work just like the FLHTC-I does. You could also just splice into the blue/pink wire from the ECM with a wire going directly to your tach.
My book shows a pink wire in the coil circuit for a carbureted FLHR 1996 but not for the FI version. I'll take a look at the blue/pink to see if that makes sense on mine. Thanks.
My book shows a pink wire in the coil circuit for a carbureted FLHR 1996 but not for the FI version. I'll take a look at the blue/pink to see if that makes sense on mine. Thanks.
Yep - on a carb model (like Bertha!), there is a pink wire running from pin 4 of the carbureted ECM to the ignition coil, then then to junction 8, then on through junction 108 to the tach on all FLs except RKs. But on your RK it just terminates at junction 8 because there is no stock tach.
But on the fuelly models, it shows pin 5 (pink/blue wire) driving the tach - and on your RK it again terminates at junction 8 because there is no tach.
I'll bet the pink/blue wire will drive your tach OK!
BTW, this info is from my Clymer Evo manual. I think their electrical diagrams are better than the ones in my H-D factory service manual... and they are presented by year as well as model.
Last edited by NorthGeorgiaHawg; Jun 5, 2010 at 06:10 PM.
ECM #5 on mine is a pink/black, I found it in the ECM bundle and found where it ends at the 8 place gray deutsch connector. I also found it on the wiring diagram for the 96 ultra/I and somehow finally followed it to a pink wire for a tach on that model, so I expect you are right, that it can be hooked up. getting to the gray plug will be interesting, may have to pull the battery.
I'm surprised at the different color codes that you found, I wonder what's up with that?
ECM #5 on mine is a pink/black, I found it in the ECM bundle and found where it ends at the 8 place gray deutsch connector. I also found it on the wiring diagram for the 96 ultra/I and somehow finally followed it to a pink wire for a tach on that model, so I expect you are right, that it can be hooked up. getting to the gray plug will be interesting, may have to pull the battery.
I'm surprised at the different color codes that you found, I wonder what's up with that?
Well, maybe it is pink/black... but it sure looks pink/blue in the Clymer diagram.... faded ink, perhaps?
The diagram shows the wire running through 8 and 108 all the way to the tach - so you could probably just use one of those little 29 cent plastic wire taps that allow you to tap into the pink/black wire without having to cut it - they and snap over the existing wire and the new wire, cutting through the insulation on both... I've used those a lot, and they work well. Then tape everything up well. That would allow you to just bypass the 8 and 108 junctions entirely, and run the new wire all the way to the tach itself. That's what I would do!
You guys know that you can take your manual down to Office Max, etc. and they can enlarge the diagram, laminate it and that makes it easier to use!! Don't forget to do the legend.
You guys know that you can take your manual down to Office Max, etc. and they can enlarge the diagram, laminate it and that makes it easier to use!! Don't forget to do the legend.
good idea, I can do that myself, at work. then I can read the thing without cheaters!
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