Still clicking
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
OK I did the tests that Dr Hess recomended Battery at 12.9 volts
Pull in connection 11.4-11.5 While cranking
Large Battery cable from battery 11.5 cranking
Large wire from solenoid to started 11.7 cranking
If iwas going to do somthing with the solenoid, should I just r&r a new one or do a rebuild? Thanks eneryone.
Pull in connection 11.4-11.5 While cranking
Large Battery cable from battery 11.5 cranking
Large wire from solenoid to started 11.7 cranking
If iwas going to do somthing with the solenoid, should I just r&r a new one or do a rebuild? Thanks eneryone.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
You can get a solenoid rebuilt from J&P for around $35...
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-...%20kit&Ntk=All
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-...%20kit&Ntk=All
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
That rebuild kit will not fit my bike its 89 and up. They do have a kit that will work.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-354
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-354
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,202
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
Well, those numbers show the solenoid is functioning OK. I assume that you measured them when the motor was cranking and not when it was clicking. That's the biatch of tracking this down, you have to measure it when it isn't working (clicking). Then you can find the problem.
Based on those numbers, I'm saying that you have full voltage at the solenoid pull in coil, the source of the Dreaded Click for most of us. If you still get a click with 11+V there, then the problem is either the contacts in the solenoid (maybe a burnt spot that just randomly comes up on the ring) or the starter itself, like bad brushes or something.
I hate throwing parts at things, but a rebuilt or new solenoid is as good a guess at this point as anything. The other guess would be a starter.
Based on those numbers, I'm saying that you have full voltage at the solenoid pull in coil, the source of the Dreaded Click for most of us. If you still get a click with 11+V there, then the problem is either the contacts in the solenoid (maybe a burnt spot that just randomly comes up on the ring) or the starter itself, like bad brushes or something.
I hate throwing parts at things, but a rebuilt or new solenoid is as good a guess at this point as anything. The other guess would be a starter.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
Yes, it was cranking while I tested. It has only "clicked" once in the last few rides. I went out Mon with my wife and we had no problems at all ( Kept parking on hills just in case). We put on over a 100 miles with lots of stops. I am going to try a rebuild on the solenoid. I am having surgey on Mon so I don't know when I will get to it. I am going to call aroud here and see if anyone has a kit. Thank you for your help.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
Well, those numbers show the solenoid is functioning OK. I assume that you measured them when the motor was cranking and not when it was clicking. That's the biatch of tracking this down, you have to measure it when it isn't working (clicking). Then you can find the problem.
Based on those numbers, I'm saying that you have full voltage at the solenoid pull in coil, the source of the Dreaded Click for most of us. If you still get a click with 11+V there, then the problem is either the contacts in the solenoid (maybe a burnt spot that just randomly comes up on the ring) or the starter itself, like bad brushes or something.
I hate throwing parts at things, but a rebuilt or new solenoid is as good a guess at this point as anything. The other guess would be a starter.
Based on those numbers, I'm saying that you have full voltage at the solenoid pull in coil, the source of the Dreaded Click for most of us. If you still get a click with 11+V there, then the problem is either the contacts in the solenoid (maybe a burnt spot that just randomly comes up on the ring) or the starter itself, like bad brushes or something.
I hate throwing parts at things, but a rebuilt or new solenoid is as good a guess at this point as anything. The other guess would be a starter.
You seem like a well educated man...Set a speed record and come play in OUR world!! You will be hooked for life!!!
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
The local dealer was open until 7 today. They had a rebuild kit for $20. I ran over and got it. I looked the shop manual. Should I remove the solenoid or can I rebuild it on the bike? Will I need to pull thr primary cover?
Last edited by BB4xl; Jun 23, 2010 at 06:54 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
Once you get the Primary cover off you'll have to remove the long bolt that fastens the 9 or 10-tooth gear on the end of the starter shaft...That same bolt is held fast by a locking tab...There are 2 Allen-Head fasteners that hold the starter to the inner primary and they can be a real bitch to break loose...Be careful there!!! Those Allen Heads round out way to easy!!!
It's way simpler than you think!!! If I can do it, anyone can!!!
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,202
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
I think your 87 is the same as my 86. I don't remember when they went to the different starter/solenoid, but I think it was after 87. If it's the same as my 86, then you can rebuild the solenoid without pulling the primary cover. Disconnect the battery, disconnect the wires, take the 2 bolts out (7/16", if I recall off the top of my head), and the solenoid will come right off. Take it all apart, put the new stuff in, put it back together.
This is my 86:
Good luck on the whack. Take it easy afterwards, don't get in any hurries, and follow your surgeon's directions exactly.
This is my 86:
Good luck on the whack. Take it easy afterwards, don't get in any hurries, and follow your surgeon's directions exactly.