EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Looking for some troubleshooting help

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 03:14 AM
  #11  
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RandyDowdy
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It won't be the plugs, they won't recover that quickly.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 03:15 PM
  #12  
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I did a pretty thorough troubleshoot of the fuel system yesterday and I'm satisfied that the problem is not there. So today I'm going to follow all of the suggestions above and check for continuity in all the wires in the ignition system. I should be done in a few hours and will let you all know what I cam up with. I don't think it's heat soak though as yesterday was a pretty cool day relative to some of the others we have had lately. I'm betting on a wire with internal fraying, possibly the primary wire to the coil, so I'm going to start there.
Thanks again for everyone's help
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #13  
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I'd bet you a cup if coffee that Hess is right.. I had the same issue on my bike. It would run great, then cut off like I hit the switch, come back and run fine again.. Finally after chasing it for a couple of weeks, it left me on the side of the road.. Refusing to tow it, I found one of the pick-up wires coming out of the cone and running behind my Carlini Tq Arm was broken internally. Basicly, with the bike running, gently pull on the wires coming from your ignition pick-up and see if that effects it. If one is broken, you'll feel the stretch..
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #14  
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I'll check that tomorrow Greg. I ran continuity tests on all the wires in the ignition system and everything checked out OK, but that is with the bike still, no vibration.

Now, what's the deal in getting that cover off the cone, Do I just drill out the heads of those rivets and then use screws to replace the cover?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 06:49 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by omgtkk
Now, what's the deal in getting that cover off the cone, Do I just drill out the heads of those rivets and then use screws to replace the cover?

Pretty much. But replace the rivets with new rivets... I've seen guys use a standard rivet, but I'd use the ones that HD sells because they are sealed on the backside. Meaning that the center will not fall out into the timing cover.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 06:49 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by HGM
Pretty much. But replace the rivets with new rivets... I've seen guys use a standard rivet, but I'd use the ones that HD sells because they are sealed on the backside. Meaning that the center will not fall out into the timing cover.
Hi Guys,Excuse my ignorance,but what is the "cone" that you refer to.? Bungo.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 06:57 AM
  #17  
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I had a similar problem on an old sporty before. Checked everything out and found it was a frayed wire coming off the coil and shorting on the bottom of the fuel tank. Only happened at hiway speeds
 
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 07:41 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
Hi Guys,Excuse my ignorance,but what is the "cone" that you refer to.? Bungo.
The cam cover on the right side has a bit of a cone shape. So, it commonly gets called a "cone". Here in the States anyhow.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 08:41 PM
  #19  
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Question Check sparkplugs...

Originally Posted by BungoBill
Hi,Im fairly new to Harleys but if I had a spare set (or borrow?) of HT leads that you know are reliable I would fit them first.
Possible Spark Plug problem...again ,replace both and see if any improvement.
Inspect Volt. Regulator leads to and from and the Rubber jackplug into the Crankcase (to Rotor/Alternator).
Could also be a Coil problem?
Make sure all elec. connections are good.
I know it may be something completely unrelated that is causing the mis-fire but if you are like me...I like to hear input from anyone cause amongst them there may be the answer to your problem.
These suggestions shouldnt cost $$$$ either. Bungo
Had my '91 FLHS cut out on me one hot July day in stop and go traffic. Was only a few miles from the barn so limped it back on one cylinder. Went to check the plugs and the rear plug was "finger loose". Tightened it up and no problems. More than once I've been checking/replacing my sparkplugs and found them to be less than tight for what that's worth.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #20  
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If the lights and gauges stay on while you are having this problem then the problem is in the ignition circuit, if the lights and gauges aren't functioning then check your battery cables and grounds on both ends of the cables. Hope this helps.
 
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