Looking for some troubleshooting help
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: north eastern Pa.
If you think a module problem, you can use a paint stripping gun or hair dryer to preheat the module to see if it starts to break down.
Take the wires in the harness, and wiggle.
Check your kill switch and ignition switch.
I've always had a coil go, it's stumble, miss.
This sounds like a ON/OFF problem with a wire or.....
look at the easy stuff first.
Joe
It's the easy stuff that kills me.........
Take the wires in the harness, and wiggle.
Check your kill switch and ignition switch.
I've always had a coil go, it's stumble, miss.
This sounds like a ON/OFF problem with a wire or.....
look at the easy stuff first.
Joe
It's the easy stuff that kills me.........
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 360
Likes: 13
From: Jacksonville, Florida
Some indy's (and maybe some of the better dealer mechanics) keep old take off parts. See if one of them has an old coil, ignition unit for the cone, etc.... and just swap out different combinations, until the problem stops. Then you can spring for the top shelf products, and not be concerned if you are wasting money. Just an idea.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
I've gone through every step too and still an issue. With a new circuit breaker, new coil, and just yesterday the cam sensor. Started her up and got the timing on only to have it die again after 4 or 5 minutes of idling in the drive.
Guess I need to double check that non - OEM circuit breaker when it dies and see if the juice stops there due to the breaker triggering from a fault or overload. If not it has to be the module. I saved the most expensive part for last.
Testing this issue has been a bitch cause it cools off in no time and works again. It has to be the module has "broken down" and goes bad and shuts down after a certain internal heat build from an electrical standpoint. The module is on the steering neck away from any real heat source so it has to be an internal breakdown not subject to outside temperature effects, more of a "how much electricity can it handle before failing".
Can't believe the problems has grown worse every time I put in a new part.
This has been a 3 week nightmare. Just when you think it's back to normal ... BAM it stalls out. It's gotten to the point now where it only runs for minutes.
Here in MI we're running out of riding days as I frustratingly attempt to find the trouble.
I have done every test imaginable to the module but when it works there's no problems and it runs great. BTW, the heat test and cold test did nothing to alter the issue. It has to be an internal issue with the modules electronics.
Or a broken wire?
I had an alternator on a car that worked when cold and stopped when hot. The terminal connection had vibrated enough to break the wire inside the insulation. I found the issue when it was hot and I moved the wire to discover a portion of the wire a few inches before the lug was limp due to the break in the conductor.
I've done the wiggle the wire tests everywhere. It keeps sending me back to the module as the issue.
Guess I need to double check that non - OEM circuit breaker when it dies and see if the juice stops there due to the breaker triggering from a fault or overload. If not it has to be the module. I saved the most expensive part for last.
Testing this issue has been a bitch cause it cools off in no time and works again. It has to be the module has "broken down" and goes bad and shuts down after a certain internal heat build from an electrical standpoint. The module is on the steering neck away from any real heat source so it has to be an internal breakdown not subject to outside temperature effects, more of a "how much electricity can it handle before failing".
Can't believe the problems has grown worse every time I put in a new part.
This has been a 3 week nightmare. Just when you think it's back to normal ... BAM it stalls out. It's gotten to the point now where it only runs for minutes.
Here in MI we're running out of riding days as I frustratingly attempt to find the trouble.
I have done every test imaginable to the module but when it works there's no problems and it runs great. BTW, the heat test and cold test did nothing to alter the issue. It has to be an internal issue with the modules electronics.
Or a broken wire?
I had an alternator on a car that worked when cold and stopped when hot. The terminal connection had vibrated enough to break the wire inside the insulation. I found the issue when it was hot and I moved the wire to discover a portion of the wire a few inches before the lug was limp due to the break in the conductor.
I've done the wiggle the wire tests everywhere. It keeps sending me back to the module as the issue.
Last edited by JohnnyC; Oct 16, 2010 at 10:03 AM.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
I've gone through every step too and still an issue. With a new circuit breaker, new coil, and just yesterday the cam sensor. Started her up and got the timing on only to have it die again after 4 or 5 minutes of idling in the drive.
Guess I need to double check that non - OEM circuit breaker when it dies and see if the juice stops there due to the breaker triggering from a fault or overload. If not it has to be the module. I saved the most expensive part for last.
Testing this issue has been a bitch cause it cools off in no time and works again. It has to be the module has "broken down" and goes bad and shuts down after a certain internal heat build from an electrical standpoint. The module is on the steering neck away from any real heat source so it has to be an internal breakdown not subject to outside temperature effects, more of a "how much electricity can it handle before failing".
Can't believe the problems has grown worse every time I put in a new part.
This has been a 3 week nightmare. Just when you think it's back to normal ... BAM it stalls out. It's gotten to the point now where it only runs for minutes.
Here in MI we're running out of riding days as I frustratingly attempt to find the trouble.
I have done every test imaginable to the module but when it works there's no problems and it runs great. BTW, the heat test and cold test did nothing to alter the issue. It has to be an internal issue with the modules electronics.
Or a broken wire?
I had an alternator on a car that worked when cold and stopped when hot. The terminal connection had vibrated enough to break the wire inside the insulation. I found the issue when it was hot and I moved the wire to discover a portion of the wire a few inches before the lug was limp due to the break in the conductor.
I've done the wiggle the wire tests everywhere. It keeps sending me back to the module as the issue.
Guess I need to double check that non - OEM circuit breaker when it dies and see if the juice stops there due to the breaker triggering from a fault or overload. If not it has to be the module. I saved the most expensive part for last.
Testing this issue has been a bitch cause it cools off in no time and works again. It has to be the module has "broken down" and goes bad and shuts down after a certain internal heat build from an electrical standpoint. The module is on the steering neck away from any real heat source so it has to be an internal breakdown not subject to outside temperature effects, more of a "how much electricity can it handle before failing".
Can't believe the problems has grown worse every time I put in a new part.
This has been a 3 week nightmare. Just when you think it's back to normal ... BAM it stalls out. It's gotten to the point now where it only runs for minutes.
Here in MI we're running out of riding days as I frustratingly attempt to find the trouble.
I have done every test imaginable to the module but when it works there's no problems and it runs great. BTW, the heat test and cold test did nothing to alter the issue. It has to be an internal issue with the modules electronics.
Or a broken wire?
I had an alternator on a car that worked when cold and stopped when hot. The terminal connection had vibrated enough to break the wire inside the insulation. I found the issue when it was hot and I moved the wire to discover a portion of the wire a few inches before the lug was limp due to the break in the conductor.
I've done the wiggle the wire tests everywhere. It keeps sending me back to the module as the issue.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Thanks for that info. Mine has the anti - dive valve. It's looped through the handlebar kill switch for grounding out the ignition. I might disconnect that circuit and do a run/ heat test again.
I did considered it. It doesn't seem to directly relate to the conditions but it could also be something to look closer at. Guess I really need to strip it down and take more of a "testing each step of the way" approach.
Thought it would be something more in the common component line of the ignition.
Darn them gremlins!!!
I did considered it. It doesn't seem to directly relate to the conditions but it could also be something to look closer at. Guess I really need to strip it down and take more of a "testing each step of the way" approach.
Thought it would be something more in the common component line of the ignition.
Darn them gremlins!!!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 127
From: Middle of Kansas
When it quits, will it fire right back up again? Or do you have to let it set for a little while? I would think if it will fire right back up again, that it is not a heat issue. Could still be that ign module, but are you sure it is getting gas when it quits? A good check would be to run it till it quits, and right then turn off the gas at the petcock. Then pull the carb bowl off to see it there is gas in it. Just a thought.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
When it quits, will it fire right back up again? Or do you have to let it set for a little while? I would think if it will fire right back up again, that it is not a heat issue. Could still be that ign module, but are you sure it is getting gas when it quits? A good check would be to run it till it quits, and right then turn off the gas at the petcock. Then pull the carb bowl off to see it there is gas in it. Just a thought.
Jim,
Mine was firing right back up when it seemed it was an overloaded ignition breaker that became weak. As the issue continued to progress it was more of a matter of letting it cool off.
I checked for spark when i turned it back on and all it did was crank with no spark. Several minutes later I'm flying down the road and shutting the motor off coasting, letting the clutch out and re-firing the slightly cooled motor and speeding going down the road all to get it home. Twice along the way it wouldn't fire. Several minutes later it fired up and took off like nothing was wrong.
Repeated the issue several time before getting it home.
I know there no gas flow issues replaced all of that and cleaned the tank.
I've confirmed I loose spark.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
I've confirmed I loose spark.
Edit: Sorry, I missed the "crank with no spark". You likely had headlight.
I need to slow down my reading!
Coil or module.
Last edited by Faast Ed; Oct 17, 2010 at 03:58 PM.
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Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
Can't you spray freon or something that instantly chills it, while troubleshooting?
I bet that "air in a can" for cleaning computers would work. Walgreens has it.
Just don't send your kid to get it. Gotta be 21 to buy it. (My kid came home empty handed when I sent him once). LOL
I bet that "air in a can" for cleaning computers would work. Walgreens has it.
Just don't send your kid to get it. Gotta be 21 to buy it. (My kid came home empty handed when I sent him once). LOL
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: Canada...west coast
As above...........loose coil wire, locktite.