"I've Heard" on teh 1ntr4w3bz, y0, of people repairing that with Helicoils or Timeserts with a rag in there, shop vacuum cleaner running, grease on the tap, etc. That's what I would do if I found myself in that situation.

Timeserts are supposed to be stronger than Helicoils. Either is stronger than the base aluminum and original threads.

 

I've used Time-sert spark plug repair serts back in the early 90's Good shi&

 

Keen-sert also make a repair that is identical to the Time-sert. To keep debris out of the cranckase go to your local Upohlstery shoh and have them cut two circles of three inch thick foam slightly larger than the spigot diameter and sit them down the middle just past the center. Then slide them over the rods and down into the spigot hole. They will seal the opening better than anything else you can use and the vacuum won't suck it out of the spigot hole. Next use the vacuum and some grease on the drill bit and tap. Be careful not to get the drill bit too hot as the grease will melt. Have a friend make sure you are going in straight and take your time.

 

Thanks John it kind of sounds like a good idea although I don't quite understand, any chance of describing your idea in laymans terms, I am very interested in any ideas for keeping and shavings out of the casings.
I did order the time-serts today so I need some ideas on keeping any steel particles out of the bottom of the cases. I was thinking maybe filling the stud hole with grease before drilling.

 

When you remove your cylinders, you will have a round hole that the bottom of the cylinder (the spigot) sticks into. Have the Upohlstery shop cut some 4" circles out of 3" thick foam. This will give you something that looks like an oversized white hockey puck, if the rod and piston weren't in the way you could squeeze it into the crankcase. Now you need to put a single vertical slit in it so it will wrap around the rod. This will keep any errant bits of metal from flying into the crankcase. Next liberally grease up your drill bit and slowly drill out the hole, stopping frequently to wipe off, re-grease and allow the bit to stay cool so that the grease will stay on it. Do the same for the tap. When you are done vacuum around the hole and using a small flashlight, carefully check for chips you might have missed. Tou may have to use a various picks, Q-Tips, etc to remove all of the errant ones. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks John that makes scence now, I think I actually have a rather large chunk of old car seat cushion that may do the job as well.
I ordered up the time-sert and it should be here Thursday, after talking to the tech at Time-fasteners he made it sound very easy, he suggested filling the two holes that I will be repairing with heavy grease to help stop any chips from falling through the bottom.

 

Seem to have come across another rather inconvenience, on the rear intake corner stud it is the other one I have to repair but the stud doesn't want to break loose. Any ideas on getting this stud outalong with the threads that are pulled?

 

Heat, heat, heat. Put the head in an oven, if you try to use a torch the stud will get hot first and twist off. Do it when your wife isn't home, wear mitts as it will be hot, have a friend there to help, air the kitchen out afterwards or bake a store bought apple pie.

 

Thanks John sounds like a good idea only thing is its the cylinder stud which goes into the deck of the case.
When I first found out the front stud wasn't tightening down and in turn the stud and threads were pulling out as I was torquing this may work the same for the rear cylinder if I put the jug and head back on and torque until it comes loose and out.

 

+1
Ovens are for heating heads to remove studs and valve seats, transmission cases to install main bearings, engine cases to help remove pinion bushings. And automatic dishwashers are for cleaning transmission cases, engine cases and hand tools. And if anyone's wife has a problem with any of that, get a divorce - no need to be married to a female who doesn't know how to use shop tools