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I can use some suggestions for stopping any shavings from going through the bottom of the stud hole when I drill it, I'm not sure if grease would do it and I can\t plug from bottom of whole with other than a plastic card?
John's suggestion of the grease and foam is perfectly acceptable and works very well but if you aren't comfortable with that method, use the crevice attachment of a shop-vac. Drill an oversized hole thru both flat sides of the attachment near the tip and lay that flat against the deck as you drill (slowly) With the drill bit turning slow, the vacuum will suck everything from around the bit and that stands true for tapping as well. Do not tape over the open end of the attachment. I can't explain scientifically why, but leave it open and the scavange effect actually helps pull the chips. One thing to remember if you've not already realized - the holes for the studs are already open all the way thru (somewhat) on the inner side of the cases.
Thanks John sounds like a good idea only thing is its the cylinder stud which goes into the deck of the case.
When I first found out the front stud wasn't tightening down and in turn the stud and threads were pulling out as I was torquing this may work the same for the rear cylinder if I put the jug and head back on and torque until it comes loose and out.
Sorry I thought you were talking about an exhaust stud. Heat should help it break loose. Why are you removing it?? Sounds like it's in there just fine!!! A dab of RTV silicone (allowed to dry/harden) in the very bottom of the stud hole will stop shavings from falling through. When you are done just clean it out.
Thanks John, the second one has to come out as well because it wasn't torqueing like the other one. I just setup a sleeve over it with large washer on top and at base and it pulled out like nothing. I guess silicone would probably work at the bottom of hole as well , good idea. I was also thinking something flat like a card slipped under the hole with some real sticky grease and once I clean out the hole also full of grease or silicone just turn the crank along with the card and the edge of the crank would then be showing along with any remnants of aluminum.
Remember you only need to drill a little farther than the length of the insert you are using. Drilling farther or all the way through just weakens that corner of the case and can cause more (expensive) problems
Remember you only need to drill a little farther than the length of the insert you are using. Drilling farther or all the way through just weakens that corner of the case and can cause more (expensive) problems
Thanks John thats a valuable tip, the timesert comes with a counter sink bit so I will have to measure how far that needs to go. I got the timesert today so I will let you know how it goes.
Job went pretty smooth I used all kinds of grease and cleaned the tools often. I put the rear cylinder together first and after starting on the front realized the front stud on intake side was also pulled out so replaced that one as well. Bothe cylinders are torqued back to 42 lbs and I'll finish the rest tomorrow.
Thanks for all the input.
Damn man.... Sorry I missed this one.. Looks like you got it handled, but I went through it last year.. I went with the Keen Sert... Basicly the same info above, but I've got pic's..
Thanks I will order the 3/8-16 time-sert. I'm thinking I can do it by putting a grease filled rag in the crank opening and drill out tap and install the time-sert with red locktight, easy and straight forward right ?
I've had the same issues with my 98 evo i used time serts but there is a jig to line up the dilling of that job also some one told to use a aluminum cure so the insert bonds to aluminum threads i share this because i have a evo with three head bolts I did it once and putting it back the 2 others stripped out just some FYI I wish I knew before I did mine the first time
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