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Been trying to find info. on how the signal lights are supposed to be on my 88 fxsts. they seem to run for approx. 7 seconds when turned on then shut off, self cancelling. Is this normal or should there be a lean cancel on them as well? Can get a little interesting on quick right then left turn considering the first signal won't cancel in time and it looks the the 4ways are on.
2nd question. I'm looking for an inner primary case at a decent price, has any one found a decent price on them or a decent price for a belt conversion. I have a slight crack in the case which leaks, got it welded and just cracked around the weld, dam aluminum.
Turn signals on my '91 FLHS ( OEM turn signal modulator) cancel after about 9 secs. or about 50 yd. when moving and stay on until I turn them off when sitting. The moving control is a sensor in the speedo that measures distance. Had a bad oil leak on the primary side; mechanic found a six inch hairline fracture in the case flange at inside primary case so I went to a Rivera Primo Brute III primary belt drive to get rid of the leaking primary oil. Throttle responce is much lighter and I can't "lug" the bike in 5th gear now as the belt grabs and no heavy chain or compensator to dampen the vibration. Got the kit at JP Cycle ( online) for about $725 includes new dry clutch, pulleys, belts, spacers, etc. plus about $140 labor to change it out. Well worth it as my friends don't get pissed at me when I park in their driveways and my kickstand is now dry. Hint: if your turn signals start acting up/not coming on after riding for awhile, etc. this is strong indication of voltage/charging problem.
My turn signals are completely manual on both bikes, but I know they went to the later system described by Tactical111 shortly afterwards.
As for the leak, I have seen some really good aluminum welders fix things that are stronger afterwards than the original piece was. Where did it crack? If it cracked around the clutch support bearing, pitch it and buy a new one. If it's somewhere else, I would get it fixed. Did you re-align the engine/transmission after putting the repaired piece on? This is a frame mounted motor, not rubber mounted, right? There's some play in the mounts, and the proper procedure is to loosen up the engine/transmission, bolt the primary on, then tighten up the rest. If there's extra stress, that could cause the crack to re-appear. And welding on the thing will change the dimensions slightly as well.
thats weird is they are supposed to be on off. The PO must have upgraded them to a slef cancelling? I checked and they will blink 7 times before shutting off automatically. Something has obviously been changed then. As for the case its been welded to fix the first crack but there was a hairline crack that showed up on the edge of the weld. old jb weld seems to be working for the time being, may have to look at a new case in the winter but the ptice is ridiculous to get it here. May go to a dry belt system, approx. 800 bucks
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